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Get
all the evaluations for
the MAY
Release National Post Weekly Wine & Spirits Columnist Saturday, May 24, 2003 Launch
of Winefind.ca The
system is foolproof and easy. If there is a wine that interests you, click
on the name and you will instantaneously connected with the LCBO database
telling you if the wine is in the LCBO system. If it is, it will appear in
blue and all you have to do is
click on the name and then the next screen will provide details on the
wine along with a store search. While the number of bottles in each store
is updated every night, you should call the store first to see if stock
still remains (each store phone number is also provided). It is that
simple! Today’s
Vintages release has its share of highs and lows. Last week I mentioned
two best buy bubblies: Lanson ‘Black Label’ Brut
Champagne ($39.95) and
Italy’s first DOC devoted to “Metodo
Classico” – the surprisingly well-structured Rotari Brut ($15.95). This
hand-harvested Chard-Pinot Noir blend has been aged two years on the lees
and gives lesser Champagnes a very good run. While I normally do not dwell on what not to buy, I must
mention the grossly overpriced, downright depressing Napa Valley Cakebread
Cellars 2001 Sauvignon Blanc, which at $42.95 is without an ounce of
joy. How ironic that this highly sought-after white, which is featured on
many prestigious American wine lists, should turn out to be a dud once it
makes its LCBO debut. If
Sauvignon Blanc is on today’s hit list, my suggestion would be a very
decent, very dry, crisp, gently grassy effort from the Loire at almost
half the price – Domaine Joseph Mellot 2001 Pouilly-Fumé
Le Chant des Vigne at $23.95. Look for a well-structured white with
fresh zippy grapefruit flavours that would work well with oysters and
seafood dishes. Moving
on, today’s white selection is not the strong. Don’t miss, however,
the delicious La Crema 2001 Sonoma Coast Chardonnay,
which comes in two sizes - $28.95 fro the 750 ml and $15.70 for the 375
ml. With 13.5% alcohol, look for dry, well-structured, spicy, ripe pear flavours and a
long, buttered toast finish, which works well with poultry and white
meats. Note that the Vintages Catalogue incorrectly lists it as the 2000
vintage. At almost half the price, Casa
Lapostolle 2001 Chardonnay Reserva ($14.50),
which comes from Chile’s Casablanca Valley, is a good buy. The nose has
some faintly tropical, gently cedary, dried apple notes, while the palate
is fairly crisp and dry with ripe lemon-Anjou pear flavours. This partial
barrel-fermented effort (25%) was aged for 9 months in French oak and is
ready to enjoy. Just
a tad fruitier is a fine South Australian effort that is a definite
springtime pick-me-up. Make way for Dowie
Doole 2002 Chenin Blanc ($14.50)
from the McLaren Vale and comes in a convenient Stelvin screw cap bottle.
There is good peach intensity on the nose and the palate has honeyed but
crisp, medium light bodied, refreshing, peachy flavours that show good
persistence. Unoaked and versatile, it would be perfect with luncheon
fare. Moving
on the reds where some excellent value can be found. It may not be bargain
priced, but of the ten Bordeaux, my first choice would be 2000 Château
Haut-Vigneau at $29.95. This deep
purple coloured Pessac-Leognan (a Grand Vin de Graves) has a refined,
gently cedary, plummy nose with wonderful lime notes. On the palate it is
quite smooth, albeit with some herbal, ripe cherry flavours plus a touch
of chocolate and smoked chestnuts on the finish. Keep in mind that this is
not a wine that shows well with tangy bbq ribs – it is on the elegant
and reserved side without excessive fruit gusto. It does, however, go
perfectly with a rib steak. Other
recommended steak wines include a very well priced effort from upper
reaches of Portugal’s Duoro River. Now I know it seems strange
positioning a fine 70-30 Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot Graves blend with an
indigenous blend of Tinta Roriz, Touriga Francesa and Tinto Barroca. My
answer is, who cares, especially if the wine is tasty, well priced and
works. In this case, the well-known Port house of Ferreira has come up
with a terrific red called Casa
Ferreirinha 1999 Vinha Grande at only $16.95. Winemaker Jose
Maria Soares Franco has come up with a very flavourful, medium full bodied, ready to drink
red with sandalwood, ripe plum and cherry purée flavours. From
subtle, we go to bold and tasty – perfect for the bbq. I am referring to
Delheim 2001 Shiraz at
$17.95 from South Africa’s Simonsberg-Stellenbosch region. Put your nose
to the glass, swirl and what you get is baked plums from a smoldering wood
fire. While I love its rich, chocolaty, rustic, red pepper puree flavours,
I know that they are not for everyone. Perhaps less over the top, but also extremely good value is Gentile Collins 2001 ‘Prestigio’ Syrah
($15.40). From the Mendoza region of Argentina, the
ready-to-enjoy, concentrated, smoky, black cherry flavours will go well
with almost anything you put on the barbie. Perhaps
the best red of the release is Bodegas
Julian Chivite 1997 ‘Coleccion 125’ Reserva ($35.95), which
is born in Chivite’s own picture perfect vineyards in Spain’s Navarra.
This wonderful blend of blend of 85% Tempranillo, 11% Merlot and 4%
Cabernet Sauvignon has complex, slightly cedary, faintly smoky, sweet,
baked plums and black cherry flavours that go on and on. Subscribe to Vintage Assessments Today • Click Here
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2004 |