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Sourcing today’s Vintages Best Buys

© Michael Vaughan 2003
National Post Weekly Wine & Spirits Columnist
 Saturday, May 24, 2003

Launch of Winefind.ca

The system is foolproof and easy. If there is a wine that interests you, click on the name and you will instantaneously connected with the LCBO database telling you if the wine is in the LCBO system. If it is, it will appear in blue and all you have to do is click on the name and then the next screen will provide details on the wine along with a store search. While the number of bottles in each store is updated every night, you should call the store first to see if stock still remains (each store phone number is also provided). It is that simple!

Today’s Vintages release has its share of highs and lows. Last week I mentioned two best buy bubblies: Lanson ‘Black Label’ Brut Champagne ($39.95) and Italy’s first DOC devoted to “Metodo Classico” – the surprisingly well-structured Rotari Brut ($15.95). This hand-harvested Chard-Pinot Noir blend has been aged two years on the lees and gives lesser Champagnes a very good run.

While I normally do not dwell on what not to buy, I must mention the grossly overpriced, downright depressing Napa Valley Cakebread Cellars 2001 Sauvignon Blanc, which at $42.95 is without an ounce of joy. How ironic that this highly sought-after white, which is featured on many prestigious American wine lists, should turn out to be a dud once it makes its LCBO debut.

If Sauvignon Blanc is on today’s hit list, my suggestion would be a very decent, very dry, crisp, gently grassy effort from the Loire at almost half the price – Domaine Joseph Mellot 2001 Pouilly-Fumé Le Chant des Vigne at $23.95. Look for a well-structured white with fresh zippy grapefruit flavours that would work well with oysters and seafood dishes.

Moving on, today’s white selection is not the strong. Don’t miss, however, the delicious La Crema 2001 Sonoma Coast Chardonnay, which comes in two sizes - $28.95 fro the 750 ml and $15.70 for the 375 ml. With 13.5% alcohol, look for dry, well-structured, spicy, ripe pear flavours and a long, buttered toast finish, which works well with poultry and white meats. Note that the Vintages Catalogue incorrectly lists it as the 2000 vintage.

At almost half the price, Casa Lapostolle 2001 Chardonnay Reserva ($14.50), which comes from Chile’s Casablanca Valley, is a good buy. The nose has some faintly tropical, gently cedary, dried apple notes, while the palate is fairly crisp and dry with ripe lemon-Anjou pear flavours. This partial barrel-fermented effort (25%) was aged for 9 months in French oak and is ready to enjoy.

Just a tad fruitier is a fine South Australian effort that is a definite springtime pick-me-up. Make way for Dowie Doole 2002 Chenin Blanc ($14.50) from the McLaren Vale and comes in a convenient Stelvin screw cap bottle. There is good peach intensity on the nose and the palate has honeyed but crisp, medium light bodied, refreshing, peachy flavours that show good persistence. Unoaked and versatile, it would be perfect with luncheon fare.

Moving on the reds where some excellent value can be found. It may not be bargain priced, but of the ten Bordeaux, my first choice would be 2000 Château Haut-Vigneau at $29.95. This deep purple coloured Pessac-Leognan (a Grand Vin de Graves) has a refined, gently cedary, plummy nose with wonderful lime notes. On the palate it is quite smooth, albeit with some herbal, ripe cherry flavours plus a touch of chocolate and smoked chestnuts on the finish. Keep in mind that this is not a wine that shows well with tangy bbq ribs – it is on the elegant and reserved side without excessive fruit gusto. It does, however, go perfectly with a rib steak.

Other recommended steak wines include a very well priced effort from upper reaches of Portugal’s Duoro River. Now I know it seems strange positioning a fine 70-30 Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot Graves blend with an indigenous blend of Tinta Roriz, Touriga Francesa and Tinto Barroca. My answer is, who cares, especially if the wine is tasty, well priced and works. In this case, the well-known Port house of Ferreira has come up with a terrific red called Casa Ferreirinha 1999 Vinha Grande at only $16.95. Winemaker Jose Maria Soares Franco has come up with a very flavourful, medium full bodied, ready to drink red with sandalwood, ripe plum and cherry purée flavours.

From subtle, we go to bold and tasty – perfect for the bbq. I am referring to Delheim 2001 Shiraz at $17.95 from South Africa’s Simonsberg-Stellenbosch region. Put your nose to the glass, swirl and what you get is baked plums from a smoldering wood fire. While I love its rich, chocolaty, rustic, red pepper puree flavours, I know that they are not for everyone.

Perhaps less over the top, but also extremely good value is Gentile Collins 2001 ‘Prestigio’ Syrah ($15.40). From the Mendoza region of Argentina, the ready-to-enjoy, concentrated, smoky, black cherry flavours will go well with almost anything you put on the barbie.

Perhaps the best red of the release is Bodegas Julian Chivite 1997 ‘Coleccion 125’ Reserva ($35.95), which is born in Chivite’s own picture perfect vineyards in Spain’s Navarra. This wonderful blend of blend of 85% Tempranillo, 11% Merlot and 4% Cabernet Sauvignon has complex, slightly cedary, faintly smoky, sweet, baked plums and black cherry flavours that go on and on.

And talking about going on and on, I invite National Post readers interested in getting the low down all 162 May Vintages releases to visit my website where you can track down all the tasting notes for the entire release by just entering npreader in both user name and password fields. Better yet, the new winefind.ca link instantaneously enables you to see which LCBO stores has the wines you want to buy.  

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Vintages June 2003 Release
To see the complete list of upcoming products click here
(sorted by date of release). It includes the number of cases, which wines were presented by the LCBO, our agent ID for every product, as well as, special unannounced In Store Discoveries” for May.
You can also see it sorted by agent
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Check out the
May 2003 InStore Discovery

Copyright Food & Beverage Testing Institute of Canada 2004
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Contact Michael Vaughan at
mbv@total.net