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Seeing Red on Victoria Day
Perfect matches for discerning palates

With the Victoria Day long weekend underway; folks are stoking up the grill on the balcony, in the garden and at the cottage. It’s BBQ time and one hankers for that red that will add just the right amount of magic to that steak, smoky rib or even hamburger. While some might suppose that almost anything will do, it is amazing how some reds go well with smoky ribs and yet fail with a steak, and vice versa. Those blessed with a discerning palate will discover that arranging a proper marriage isn’t difficult.

It seems that dry reds made from Bordeaux varieties, especially Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, grown in cool climates have firm dusty tannins and go better with a steak than a smoky saucy rib. The culprit in the latter is the tomato sauce with its sweetish, smoky flavours that strip flavours from restrained reds. Even a classic Bordeaux can be brought to its knees by a BBQ sauce! It can have an equally devastating effect on Italian reds. The best bet to choose a grape variety that has more fruit - Syrah is usually fine and certainly a juicy Zinfandel is usually a perpetual smoky rib winner.

First, sticking to steak, one of the best buys in today’s Vintages release is JP Vinhos 1999 Herdade De Santa Marta (995670) $13.95. It has a spicy, sandalwood and Moroccan purse nose with some earthy, chocolaty, baked plum notes. The palate is solid, dry and bright with plummy, ripe raspberry flavours that show fine length.

It is made entirely from indigenous Portuguese grapes you have probably have never have heard of - Trincadeira, Castelao, Aragonez, Alforcheiro and Moreto – all from their 58 ha. vineyard in the Alentejano region just south of Lisbon. In attempting to give this red a true Portuguese personality, JP Vinhos has used Portuguese oak in the maturing process. Anyone appreciating fine wine will miss the boat if they don’t try this one.

If you are looking for something big, and I mean really BIG, try Miguel Torres 1997 Mas La Plana (315838) at $38.95. This 100% Cabernet Sauvignon originates in Torres’ Spanish Penedès vineyard just southwest of Barcelona. Although still youthful, it is starting to show fairly good accessibility. Intense dark purple red in colour, it has an intense, complex, cedary, spicy, red cherry nose. On the palate it is quite full-bodied and well structured with slightly herbal, gamey, baked ripe plum and chocolate-cherry flavours that show fine length. I suggest that you try comparing the incredible impact of the configuration of the glass when tasting this one - a big Burgundian bowl vs. the traditional Bordeaux goblet. Let me know which works best (email mbv@total.net).

Before tackling reds for ribs, I want to mention an incredibly well priced Pinot Noir that will go with almost anything. We rarely expect a lot when spending less than $20 on this variety, especially when it comes from Germany. But let me assure that this excellent effort is definitely worthy of a detour – you will not be disappointed. File it as a perfect appetizer red - tasty, versatile and not to heavy.

Königschaffhauser 2001 Pinot Noir Trocken Königschaffhauser Steingrüble (460410) $15.95 is one of the best buys of today’s release. It has a medium deep purple red colour and very attractive, dried ripe strawberry nose. On the palate, it is juicy, dry and well balanced with delicious, fresh ripe strawberry and red cherry flavours. Bright and at its peak, it is just perfect for early summer quaffing.

Only a snob would be dismayed that the producer is a large 375-member coop, which explains the reasonable price. The wine comes from the 30 ha Königschaffhauser Steingrüble vineyard is located in southern Germany’s warm Baden region, which explains the warmth and ripeness of this red (13.5% alcohol). I am sure that everyone wishes that these German names were as easy to drink as to pronounce. In this case, Königschaffhauser is the name of the town and Steingrüble is the name of the actual vineyard site.

Those interested in exploring the wines of Baden should read the 2003 soft cover book by Stephen Brook The Wines of Germany (Mitchell Beazley – ISBN: 1 84000 791 5). Those wanting more details on specific vineyards and/or producers might check the Chapters-Indigo website (click here to see) where it is available for $27.96 (vs. the $39.95 list).

Finally, we come to the best value red of the release. If you happen to be having steak and ribs, there is no need to buy two reds because I have found the perfect match. This is one of those rare efforts, which is so tasty and versatile that guests will drink you dry. Make sure to pick up a couple of bottles of Château Val Joanis 2001 Côtes-du-Luberon (965616) $15.95. This Rhone gem is made from Syrah and Grenache and has a very deep intense purple colour. The nose is complex and spicy with vanilla-tinged, ripe sweet plums, black cherries and raspberries. One sip and you will be in love – its muscular, slightly earthy, ripe Damson plum flavours show excellent harmony and length.

Come Monday, I will be toasting Cécile and Jean-Louis Chancel who rediscovered this ancient property in 1977 and rebuilt the vineyards and estate from scratch, investing more than $6 million in state of the art equipment. Today, their wines are hailed as being some of the best values in the world. In addition to their vinous conquests, the Chancels have never stopped pushing the envelope. They host a Bird House Festival on June 19 & 20 where you can build a birdhouse (all materials being supplied for free). The big bonus is visiting their fabulous gardens, impeccably manicured by Cécile Chancel, which has been nominated (together with 12 other private French gardens) for the 2004 National Jardin en Scène award.

2001-2002-2003-2004 Tasting Note Database

Our tasting note database from December 31, 2000 to April 2004, covers every Vintages release product for the past 40 months. There are more than 6,000 notes in the database data. Just enter the name of the product, supplier name or CSPC number. Or you can search by type of wine, country of origin, even wine agent! Nothing could be easier. Also you can get information on the agent by clicking on the agent’s name, as well as current LCBO store inventory by clicking on "Check LCBO Availability", which will automatically tell you the number of bottles at LCBO as of last night.

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