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Two monthly Vintages releases
I
am sure that most of you are aware that the monthly Vintages release has now
been split up into two parts. The first release of 79 products took place on May
4th, while the balance of 85 products (including 13 special Chateauneuf-du-Pape
wines) is being released today. According
to the LCBO this is “to provide greater opportunity” for the customer and
reduce “release day rush.” Of course, it now means two trips a month to the
Vintages store instead of just one. Increased frequency of visits will mean more
LCBO revenue, which is likely to be the real reason behind this move. As
for helping the customer, as one person put it, “I can now have the
opportunity of lining up and being disappointed at not getting my chosen wines
twice as often as before.” In addition, Vintages decision to produce two
totally separate listings, rather than combine them under single country/subregion
headings along with a release date code, has made things more difficult than
ever. The May 4th releases, for instance, are forgotten about as soon
as you start looking at the May 18th selection. Flipping back and
forth is pain in the ---! Before
digging into the wines, let me suggest that perfect gift for someone turning 20
– something that is likely to last a lifetime. It’s Laubade 1982 Bas Armagnac a fine buy at
$114.95. This golden amber coloured spirit has a lovely, sweet, rounded,
buttered toast nose with hot, smooth, caramel notes on the palate. Unlike a
wine, it can keep almost indefinitely. From
my ABC (anything but chardonnay) feature two weeks ago, today’s mission is to
reveal May’s best Chards. The surprising well-structured Santa Ines 1999 Chardonnay Reserva Legado de Armida
at only $14.95 (350 cases) should not be missed. Quite frankly, given its deep
yellow colour, I was expecting it to be mature - perhaps over the hill. But what
a nice surprise. The nose was intense and cedary with vanilla driven, orange
marmalade and coconut pie notes. On the palate this Maipo Valley white was rich,
spicy and mouth filling with a faint tropical fruit cocktail taste. Showing lots
of persistence, these are perfect flavours to toast the season finale of
Survivor this Sunday. On
the other hand, California, which is home of the X Files (the final episode
takes place Sunday night as well), has three strong Sonoma Chard contenders. The
“truth may be out there” but it doesn’t come cheaply. My favourite (and
highest scoring of the half dozen in the Catalogue) was Rutz Cellars 1997 Chardonnay at $29.90 from
Sonoma’s Russian River Valley. The nose shows lots of complexity and finesse
– shades of Grand Cru Chablis. It is solid and well structured on the palate
with 14.2% alcohol. The dried ripe lemon flavours and lingering hazelnut purée
finish are sufficiently intense enabling it to work with white meats – i.e. a
grilled lamb chop. If
key lime pie and dried pear flavours turn you on, then make a beeline to another
Sonoma Valley winner. Clos
du Bois 2000 Chardonnay Reserve at $27.90 comes from the Alexander
Valley and is loaded with tangy, medium bodied, slightly tart, dried ripe pear
fruit on the palate. It’s no slouch either with 14.1% alcohol. Finally,
there is La
Crema 2000 Chardonnay at $26.95 from the Sonoma Coast. With just a
tad less alcohol (13.7%), you will find that it shows good accessibility with
very bright, spicy, ripe lemon-pear flavours followed up by a lingering,
slightly cedary, creamy finish. For
those who shun TV altogether, there is a delicious little ditty from Italy’s
Veneto. While it may not be all Chardonnay, 35% of the blend is Garganega; Bertani 2000 Le Lave is a
definite winner even at $18.90. The nose is quite lovely with fresh, ripe pear,
subtle hints of melted butter and a pinch of vanilla. On the palate its dry,
bright, lively Anjou pear flavours are followed up by a refreshing lingering
finish. It would be great with seafood - a refreshing refrain from a world
afloat in oaky Chards. Decisions, decisions - so many wines, so little time You
have until Wednesday May 22 - 5 pm for the Spring/Summer
2002 Classics fax/mail/e-mail ordering deadline. Some 524 items are
featured of which 341 are new. Unfortunately, the LCBO preview took place
yesterday – too late for today’s column. Nevertheless,
I made a brief appearance at Vintages sold out Classics pre-tasting at
Toronto’s ROM. I feel sorry for fans that missed this event. Not only was it
the best ever yet with great food, but I also discovered a couple of terrific
whites. One in particular from the northern Rhone at only $24 captivated my
palate. The tiny region of Saint-Péray produces Marsanne and Roussanne based
whites, which rarely turn heads. Well excuse me, 2000 Saint-Péray Les Bailères is definitely
worth a detour. Its honeyed, ripe, fresh apricot-pear purée flavours will put a
new spin on Spring. Ditto
for the even less expensive 1999
Anjou Varenne du Poirier. At only $16, this steal from the Loire is
brimming with refined, fresh melon, pear and apricot fruit flavours. Finally
with the New Zealand wine fair coming to town (see below), astute buyers are
patiently waiting to personally taste Vintages releases for themselves. Indeed,
this may be the only place to sample some Vintages wines, which will not be
evaluated. A prime example is Palliser 2001 Sauvignon Blanc at $15.55, which will be
appearing on June 1st (399 cases). This along with 23 other Sauvignon
Blancs will be sampled at the fair. Those
who wait, however, may find an empty Vintages cupboard. Today’s release of Babich
2001 Sauvignon Blanc at $15.55, for instance, in not likely to last.
Its grassy, ripe, gooseberry aromas and very crisp, light bodied, refreshing,
lemony-gooseberry flavours are bound to thrill fans of this grape. The lingering
unoaked finish is best with seafood. Planning Ahead:
The 2002
New Zealand Wine Fair comes to town once
again,
this time bigger than ever featuring 26 wineries and 86 wines. In order to
reduce congestion, it is being held on two nights - Monday, May 27 and Tuesday,
April 28 from 7:00 - 9:30 pm at Alice
Fazooli’s (294 Adelaide Street West). The cost (which includes food) is
$50 wine club members / $55 others. You
can see the detailed list of wines
being presented and register on my web site
For further information call (705) 444-5255. |
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Copyright Food & Beverage Testing Institute of Canada
2004 |