With Mother’s Day tomorrow, a full moon Thursday and Victoria Day next weekend, I am thinking of bright and fruity. Checking out today’s Vintages release of 80 items, some fit the bill perfectly.

Kicking off with whites, one is going to be hard pressed to find more joy than in this tasty, just faintly off-dry, Okanagan Valley effort. Gray Monk Cellars 2001 Pinot Gris ($15.90) has a very fruity, fresh ripe pear and rhubarb purée nose. These ripe pear-rhubarb flavours continue on the palate, which is both crisp and very slightly sweet. A delightful, unoaked, springtime sipper, which is at its peak.

Established in 1972 by George and Trudy Heiss, Gray Monk has over fifty acres of vineyards overlooking beautiful Lake Okanagan. Most of the Pinot Gris came from the winery’s own vineyards and were picked at about 22 Brix. In order to retain freshness, it was fermented in stainless without any secondary (or malolactic) fermentation. It is relatively low in alcohol (11.6%) with a touch of residual sugar (under 1%) and fine bright acidity (TA of 8.1). When I tasted it at the Canadian Wine Awards in August 2002, I awarded it a Gold medal. Fortunately, it is just about as good today!

Gray Monk is one of a few wineries that is not afraid to let Pinot Gris’ grayish-blue/brownish-pink skins to slightly colour the wine. The owner’s son and winemaker, George Heiss Jr. feels that longer skin contact produces a fuller flavoured wine. As a result, there is a slight hint of pink to the wine’s light yellow colour.

In Hungary, Pinot Gris is called Szurkebarat, which translates into Gray Friar or Gray Monk. As Gray Monk’s claim to fame (almost 10,000 cases are produced), I am pleased to report that this grape has finally come into its own in BC. Naturally, I would have been happier if the LCBO could have matched the BC price of only $13.95.

Also, for comparative purposes, it would have been great if the LCBO could have snagged some premium Gray Monk 2001 Odyssey Pinot Gris, which is made from their own original 25-year old vines imported from Alsace and planted in 1976. These mature, low yielding vines (only 2 tons per acre) were picked at over 25 Brix resulting in a richer, concentrated, more flavourful white. It sells for $19.95 at the winery and can be ordered (in say a mixed case of 12) for delivery by courier to Ontario at approximately $40. For further information, call the winery direct at 1-800- 663-4205.

Stylistically similar and also offering excellent accessibility is Ironstone Vineyards 2001 Viognier at $17.95. Here is a big (14.5% alcohol) California effort that has been blended with 15% Chardonnay. The attractive, very bright nose is slightly honeyed with floral, ripe citrus notes. On the palate, it’s just faintly off-dry and quite mouth filling with spicy, ripe pear flavours and a long, unoaked finish. It shows good versatility and would work well with poultry or seafood.

Those cherishing the tang of Sauvignon Blanc should not miss Palliser Estate 2002 ‘Pencarrow’ Sauvignon Blanc at 17.95 from New Zealand’s Martinborough, North Island region. The brilliant nose focuses on fresh Anjou pear and sweet grass with a touch of guava. It is very dry and crisp on the palate with spicy, grassy flavours and hint of guava on the finish. At its peak, it comes in a modern, hassle-free, Stelvin screw cap bottle, which preserves freshness. Remember to mark May 25/26 for the upcoming New Zealand Wine Fair which is taking place at Alice Fazooli’s Restaurant (Click Here for information)

Dollar for dollar, my favourite Chard may not be bargain-priced, but it is very tasty. Chateau St. Jean 2000 Sonoma County Chardonnay at $27.95 is incorrectly identified as 2001 the Vintages Catalogue. A big thumb’s up for the buttery-toasty, ripe lemon nose, which is followed up by well-structured, lemony, Anjou pear, lime flavours and a fine lingering finish.

Moving on to reds for that special mum try the delicious Adelsheim Vineyard 2000 Oregon Pinot Noir at $36.95. It may not be a bargain, but it’s worth every penny. There is terrific elegance here with very ripe, rounded but still bright, dried ripe cherry, strawberry fruit flavours. While it leans a bit in a medium light bodied direction, it has nice length and is ready to enjoy.

The best red of the release is Bodegas Julian Chivite 1997 ‘Coleccion 125’ Reserva at $35.95. This remarkably fine blend of 85% Tempranillo, 11% Merlot and 4% Cabernet Sauvignon hails from Spain’s Navarra region. It has a very deep intense red colour and a complex, slightly cedary, smoky, ripe plum and black cherry purée nose with refined lime notes. These pure fruit flavours continue on the palate, which is rounded, medium-full bodied and slightly cedary. A real knock-out with excellent length.

Last but not least, is a sweet kiss from Italy’s Piedmont Villa Giada 2001 ‘Ceirole’ Moscato d’Asti at $16.95. The nose bubbles over with alluring, sweet, Muscaty, ripe peachy-pear fruit. Although sweet and gently fizzy on the palate, there is just enough acidity to keep the sweet Muscat flavours from becoming cloying. Best yet, especially for senior moms, it only has 4.5% alcohol meaning that you can avoid the hospital detox center if she happens to throw back a few too many glasses. A perfect starter for Sunday brunch.

Of the 162 items, Vintage Assessments presents the most comprehensive detailed tasting notes covering 151 (94%) items! You can get this today (Click Here) and ensure that you connect with the wines/spirits you want. Ontario’s leading professional wine buyers agree that Vintage Assessments is “the most widely-used, indispensable and reliable guide to Vintages available.”  

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May 2003 InStore Discovery

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