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The Whites of Spring
From Stellar Sauvignon Blanc to Pinot Blanc
In Today’s Vintages Release

Those who felt cheated by not being able to get their hands on the coveted Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc (released earlier this month at $28.95) need not fret. Today’s Vintages release has a number of gems that, quite honestly, are just about as tasty and, better yet, much less expensive.

Let me kick off with a lovely South African white that goes for an amazingly modest $13.45. Now I know that some will wonder how a Sauvignon Blanc that costs less than half of its esteemed New Zealand brother could compare. And yet it does. There is nothing suburban about the 2002 ‘Brampton’ Sauvignon Blanc (977306). The venerable house of Rustenberg, which is located in Stellenbosch, produces this consumer friendly, well-priced range of Coastal designated wines. The nose is very intense with fresh ripe white peach and subtle grassy notes. Its deliciously dry, unoaked, tangy, ripe white peach purée and lively gooseberry flavours are at their peak. Move quickly, only 400 cases of six are available.

Also in the unoaked vein, is an obscure 100% Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire - Domaine du Tremblay 2001 Quincy Cuvée Vieilles Vignes (700542) at $18.85. The crisp, very dry, intense, gently herbaceous, grassy, gooseberry and green peach flavours are definitely worthy of a detour. The tiny commune of Quincy used to be famous for its fine Sauvignon Blanc – it was only the second appellation to be granted in France after Chateauneuf-du-Pape in 1936. I last toured the tranquil vineyards after the devastating frost of 1977, which saw 90% of the crop destroyed. – a  devastating setback for this small region. I am very pleased to see a decent edition back in Vintages. Vintages two previous releases of Domaine Valéry Renaudat (1999 and 2000) were unpleasantly tart releases and left much to be desired.

From Italy’s Veneto, we have the truly charming Inama 2001 Soave Classico Superiore (949768) at $15.95. This 100% Garganega has a very fragrant nose with lovely, gently spicy, ripe apricot fruit with crisp, honeyed, fresh winter melon flavours. It shows fine versatility and is a real crowd pleaser and perfect seafood companion. For more information press here.

Not to be missed at only $14.00 is an outstanding effort from British Colombia’s Okanagan Valley. Make way for Sandhill 2001 Burrowing Owl Vineyard Pinot Blanc (541185 - 84 cases), a really big white in terms of flavour. Look for buttered toast, tangerines and limes on the nose along with lots of tangy, ripe tangerine and vanilla-apricot fruit flavours. Best with white meats and poultry, this is the companion piece for their 2001 Chardonnay (541193) at $15.00, which has even more serious toasty-vanilla-coconut flavours. Both were barrel fermented in a mix of French and American oak. I awarded this outstanding Pinot Blanc a whopping 91 points and a gold medal at last fall’s 2002 Canadian Wine Awards. 

Sandhill started off as collaboration between grower Richard Cleave of Burrowing Owl Vineyard and winemaker Howard Soon of Calona Vineyards. It was launched with the 1997 vintage and is a “virtual” winery in the sense that it is really nothing more than a premium label that is owned by and made at Calona.

Unfortunately, Sandhill is easily confused with Burrowing Owl Estate Winery, which was set up by up by developer Jim Wyse and, until last year, was also partially-owned and independently produced at the Calona facility – by their own winemaker Bill Dyer (ex-Sterling Vineyards). Jim Wyse parted ways with Calona and has now built his own winery in this promising Black Sage Road region of Osoyoos close to the Washington border.

Moving on to the best value Chardonnay of the release - Wolf Blass 2001 Premium Selection Chardonnay (394908) at $19.95. This barrel-fermented effort hails from South Australia and fortunately some 500 cases are on hand. Look for an elegant, toasty, key lime pie nose. On the palate, it is very nicely structured, dry and medium full bodied with lingering, toasty, ripe, lemon-lime purée flavours. 

Last but not least for those well-deserved warm Spring days is a terrific organic white from Germany’s Rheinhessen Sander 2001 Riesling Kabinett Trocken (972307) at only $13.50. Its just off-dry (not too “trocken”), refreshing, slightly honeyed, spicy, gentle lychee and fresh melon fruit flavours - a perfect pick-me-up. Keep in mind that while it comes from organically managed vineyards, it does contain 29 ppm of free sulphur, which may affect those with allergies.

For just a few more dollars, the Studert-Prüm 2001 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett (970129) at $18.35 is a must-try. It is gently sweet with very refreshing, lingering, honeyed, vibrant winter melon flavours. Those wanting to explore the Gems of Germany should keep Tuesday, April 1^st in mind as their annual wine fair rolls into town. Over 80 wines will be featured, many with food pairings, at Toronto’s Roy Thompson Hall (afternoon trade/evening consumer). Details are posted on my website (press here) or call 905-815-1581.

Moving on to reds, my best buy red also happens to be organic - José Maria da Fonseca 2000 Vinya (737197) at $14.90 comes from Portugal’s warm southern Terras do Sado region. The nose has spicy, fresh, sweet ripe Damson plums and hints of vanilla. The palate is well balanced with solid, rather tangy, ripe black cherry flavours and hints of cedar. The Vintages Catalogue states that their website will have the free sulphur reading. But as of yesterday (the day prior to the release nothing was posted on the LCBO website (other than: “please check back in the near future”) Although I have now been personally informed that it has 12 ppm, one would have hoped that my four e-mails to the LCBO would have prompted them to provide the information to everyone as promised.

Last but not least, the best Syrah/Shiraz of the release is Reynell 2000 Basket Pressed Shiraz (510628) at $27.90. This deep intense purple coloured elixir has solid but well-balanced, accessible, spicy, plummy, red pepper purée flavours with very good length. Good today, it will still improve over the next few years.

Chateau Reynella was established in 1838 John Reynell and is situated 20 km south of Adelaide and 5 km east of St. Vincent's Gulf - the gateway to the McLaren Vale wine region. The Reynell family was the first to grow grapes commercially for winemaking in South Australia. Their first vintage was in 1842 and continued until the heirs to the Reynell business were killed in World War II. In 1953, the Reynell family relinquished its controlling interest in the company and Colin Haselgrove, the winemaker, was appointed managing director. In 1970 Walter Reynell & Sons Limited was sold to Hungerford Hill. In 1972 Hungerford Hill sold a half share of its wine interest to Rothmans of Pall Mall. Towards the end of 1976 Rothmans took complete control of the company after the joint venture was dissolved. In 1982, Thomas Hardy and Sons Pty Limited bought it from Rothmans. Today, it is the corporate headquarters for BRL Hardy, while the actual wine is made at the Tintara premium red wine facility. Ironically, the Reynell brand only appears on the international markets outside of Australia. 

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March 2003 InStore Discovery


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