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Best Buys in Today's Vintage Release
A spicy new Hungarian blend

It was busy last Monday as some harried bargain hunters tried tracking down remaining Vintages markdowns. The sale might have implications for only some March releases. How many, for instance, are going to buy this month’s icewine, when the gold medal winner from the Canadian International Wine Challenge Cilento 1999 Riesling Icewine (460444) can now be had for only $34.95 (a $15 discount)?

Fortunately, well-priced buys appear in today’s release. First up is a rather tasty unoaked Hungarian effort that is at its peak of drinkability. Make way for Nyakas Pince 2002 Budai Cuvée (936476) at $11.95. The spicy, lychee nose is followed up by a dry, crisp, fresh melon and lychee flavours that are both refreshing and lingering.

Only two grapes are mentioned on the front label suggesting that it is a blend of only Chardonnay (60%) and a Hungarian cross called Irsai Olivér, come from the Buda region, which is on the north side of the Danube River (Pest lies on the opposite south bank) about 25 km west of Budapest. It is the Irsai Olivér, developed in 1930 by Pál Kocsis, which accounts for the fruity, spicy, lychee flavours - somewhat reminiscent of Muscat. Chardonnay adds acidity and tames the spiciness.

While the creation of Budai Cuvée dates back to 1996, this is the very first vintage to also include 20% Müller-Thurgau, an 1882 early ripening, high yielding, cross between Riesling and Sylvaner that was developed at the Geisenheim research station in Germany.

Hungary’s proud tradition of winemaking can be traced back to the14th century. Success was seriously hampered by more than four decades of Communism. Today, the ex-managers of the Tok Coop own the Nyakas Pince winery. Ernó Malya, Hungary’s 2002 winemaker of the year, now works in an ultra-modern facility with the grapes coming from 110 hectares of director-owned vineyards. If you wish an update, check out the just-published Mitchell Beazley soft cover The Wines of Hungary by Alex Liddell (ISBN1-84000-789-3 at $39.95).

Moving to a release highlight, don’t miss the delicious, ready to drink Santa Rita 2002 Chardonnay ‘Medalla Real’ (303628), a genuine Chilean bargain at only $16.95. The grapes of this Valle de Casablanca wonder were fermented in stainless steel (60%) with the balance (40%) in new French oak for 6 months on its lees. Only 10% went through malolactic, meaning that high total acidity (5.8) keeps it lively. Overall, it is very impressive – the nose has lots of spicy grapefruit and sweet baked pear notes. On the palate, the grapefruit, clove-tinged, rhubarb-key lime flavours go on and on.

Of the reds coming out today, I liked Tommasi 2000 Crearo della Conca d’Oro (928226). It may only have an IGT Rosso de Veronese designation, but at $28.95, tastes better than some Italian reds at twice the price. It is based on Corvina (50%), a traditional Valpolicella grape with the addition of Cabernet Franc (35%) and the indigenous, recently restored Oseleta variety (15%) grown in the Conca d’Oro vineyard. These last two grapes are not allowed under Valpolicella rules, thus explaining its IGT status.

It is the seductive accessibility of this “Super Venetian” that turns me on. The complex, chocolaty, ripe plum nose is followed up by dry but not austere, rounded, ripe plum flavours with fine chocolate notes on the lingering finish. Aged for 18 months in large 3,500 litre Slovenian oak barrels, it is delicious to the last drop!

Finally, for those with a sweet tooth Keo Commandaria ‘St John’ (101451) is back at $11.95. Think of figs, honey, caramel and warm sweet raisin pie as you sip this viscous, yellow-amber coloured elixir.

The Greek poet Hesiod tells us that this sweetie was very much in fashion in 800 BC making it the oldest recorded/named wine in the world. It also proved popular among the Knights of St. John who named it Commanderia, after their commandery of Colossi in the 12th century. 

Made from sun dried indigenous red Mavro and white Xynisteri grapes, the intense natural sweetness (19% residual sugar) remains after fermentation. It is topped up with pure grape spirits (14% alcohol) and is aged in barrels for at least two years.

Finally, with German winemakers in town for next Tuesday’s annual German Wine Fair, I have an April 6th best buy (one of 115 wines at the fair). Look for Loosen 2002 ‘Dr. L’ Riesling  (599274) at $12.95. This Mosel has a fine, mineral-directed, ripe, lemon-lime nose and honeyed, fresh melon and ripe red apple flavours. A fine harbinger to spring.

2001-2002-2003-2004 Tasting Note Database

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