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A Spirited Split Decision!
From Great Gin to Stunning Pastis

Launch of Winefind.ca
The system is foolproof and easy. If there is a wine that interests you, just click on the name and you will instantaneously connected with the LCBO database telling you if the wine is in the LCBO system. If it is, it will appear in blue and all you have to do is click on the name again and then the next screen will provide details on the wine along with a store search. While the number of bottles in each store is updated every night, you should call the store first to see if stock still remains (each store phone number is also provided). It is that simple!
Note that all the items recommended below are connected with the LCBO database.

I would be deceitful if I suggested that there were lots of great buys in today’s Vintages release. Unfortunately, the bargains are hard to come by. In fact, the release seems chock of block full of wines, especially reds, which are only a notch above average, especially at the price.

Of course, beauty is in the eye, or is it the tongue, of the beholder? I stand by last week’s Sauvignon Blanc-inspired Domaine Des Cassagnoles 2002 (931212) as the best buy white of the release at only $8.95. This tasty blend of 65% Colombard, 20% Gros Manseng and 15% Ugni Blanc has lots of fresh fruit and has no oak exposure. It is great with seafood and is ready to enjoy.

Looking at Chardonnay, my pick would be Bodegas Esmeralda/Catena Zapata 2002 Alamos Ridge Chardonnay  (801571) at $14.95. The first thing to note is that it’s a 2002, not 2001 (as appears in the Vintages Catalogue). Look for a lovely, complex, slightly smoky, vanilla-tinged, ripe lemon-lime nose. On the palate you’ll find creamy, faintly sweet, caramelized pear flavours that show good length. It’s a real wide appeal, ready-to-drink, summer sipper.  

Moving over to the “I’m glad I don’t have to drink it” category is the boring, sweetish, pineapple custard flavoured Santa Barbara 2001 Chardonnay (989152) at $21.45. Fans of serious Chardonnay, however, will relish the well-made, unfiltered Saintsbury 2001 Carneros Chardonnay  (359281) at $33.50. The toasty, spicy, sweet ripe pear nose is followed up by thankfully dry, bright, tangy, ripe lemon flavours. A definite hit.

For summer drinking, my favourite white of the release is a racy Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire - Joseph Mellot 2001 Sancerre La Gravelière (979922) at $24.95. Look for ripe lemon, grass and minerals on the nose On the palate you will find a well structured, crisp and yet harmonious white with dry, gently grassy, ripe lemon flavours. Perfect with seafood, especially oysters.

Moving on, if I had one red to buy it would be the dark, deeply coloured Cline Cellars 1999 Ancient Vines Carignane (943142) at $ 23.95. The nose is intense and cedary with baked plums, dark chocolate and prunes. It’s big, mouthfilling and full bodied on the palate - although you might not know that that this whopper has 15.1% alcohol. Cedar, chocolate, prune and ripe baked plums persist on the lingering finish.

Ironically, I might argue that today’s release best buys are not wines, but spirits. It seems to be a split decision between two entries. First, in the clear, faint-greenish-yellow-tinted trunks, we have perhaps one of the finest gins to pass these lips. From Scotland, the home of haggis, comes Cadenhead Old Raj Gin (715847) with a whopping 55% alcohol. I know that it sounds dangerous, but actually tastes divine. The explosive nose is very spicy and slightly sweet with intense, herbal, Chartreuse-like notes. And despite the high octane, it is pungent and yet smooth and balanced on the palate with honeyed, spicy, sweetish herbal flavours and a long finish. Great by itself or on the rocks.

Although the Cadenhead Distillery was born in 1842, it changed hands in 1972 going to J & A Mitchell & Co. (proprietors of the well-known Springbank Distillery) who then launched the Old Raj brand. It is made with a neutral Scottish grain spirit to which a special house made gin flavour essence is added. The unusual colouring comes from the addition of saffron, which is apparently performed by the company chairman in person. It makes one wonder whether he might be sneaking some of this unbelievably expensive spice home for personal purposes.

Old Raj comes in a gift box depicting hunters perched on top of an elephant suggesting that it’s “time for an Old Raj Gin served straight” - obviously to bolster one’s courage. The other side shows the hunters relaxing on the veranda where it and “Indian tonic served after the hunt”. At $59.95 (700 ml), this is one gin that’s certain to get the “ooos” and “aaahs” even for empty-handed hunters.

In case you are wondering where you have seen this before, some 15 cases appeared, and quickly disappeared from the Spring/Summer 2002 Classics Catalogue. It’s up some 40% in price (from the original $43.00), but now 40 cases of six bottles are available.

The second spirit, in the light golden yellow trunks, is the remarkable Henri Barduin Le Pastis des Provençaux (951368) at $29.95 (700 ml). The minute you open the bottle - sweet, honeyed, very spicy, herbal, green Chartreuse and star anise notes flood the room. On the palate, it’s just off dry with very intense, floral, spicy, licorice flavours followed up by some peppery notes resulting from the high alcohol (45%).

The word ‘pastis’ apparently means mélange or blend in Provençal and this formula contains nutmeg, cinnamon, thyme, clove, sage, cumin, mace, gentian, savory, white and black thirst quencher. Try it straight or mixing it - one part pastis to four parts ice water. It is a great summer thirst quencher.

It is a shame that the LCBO has taken so long to reorder this winner – it last appeared in the August 2000 release at $28.95 and had sold out for four straight years from 1997 to 2000! Unfortunately, only 50 cases are available. Adding insult to injury, Vintages is also releasing the slightly cheaper, but decidedly inferior Janot Pastis (72 cases) later this month. Good grief, one pastis in 29 months and then suddenly two together!

Finally, in honour of this weekend’s BookExpo Canada Conference 2003, let me recommend a terrific newly-released book as a potential Father’s Day gift (June 15^th). Fathers who are fans of Italian wines will love receiving a copy of the 493-page paperback Brunello to Zubibbo, the Wines of Tuscany, Central and Southern Italy by Nicolas Belfrage (18400077907 Mitchell Beazley - represented by McArthur & Co.). This well researched, up-to-date, clearly written effort is indispensable for anyone trying to work their way through the innumerable layers of Italian wine lore. It is available on the Chapters/Indigo website (press here) for only $27.96, which is much better than $39.95. Those trying to find which LCBO stores stock any of the items above can go to winefind.ca.

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June 2003 InStore Discovery

Copyright Food & Beverage Testing Institute of Canada 2004
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