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“A Rose is a Rose” but not a rosé
Digging one up for daddy
©
Michael Vaughan 2004
National Post
Weekly Wine & Spirits Columnist
Saturday,
June 19, 2004
www.winefind.ca
(CLICK ON THE NAME - All listings are automatically linked to the LCBO database)
If there is a product that interests you, just click on the name below and you will instantaneously connected with the LCBO database. The product will appear in blue and all you have to do is click on the name again and then the next screen will provide details along with the store search. Just click on store search. The number of bottles in each store is updated nightly. You should call the store first to see if stock still remains (each store phone number is listed).
As
a guy who already has one Rose in his life, it’s always a bit
challenging making room for another. There’s no question, becoming
infatuated with something new is fraught with angst. Bringing home that
new flame can create more problems than it’s worth. After all, as I have
been told, real guys should only fall for one Rose at a time - at least
according to my Rose.
It
is enough to make one blush because, without the accent, one wouldn’t
know what I am talking about. Unfortunately, it gets worse – some
misguided souls believe that when it comes to rosé, real men don’t
drink it! Naturally, finding out that you’re not a “real” man,
especially at my age, can be very disconcerting. And while pinks aren’t
for punks, they do work well for summertime drinking. Certainly with
Father’s Day at hand, the timing is perfect to dig one up for daddy.
Despite
the multitude of pink-focused articles out there, all filled with glowing
reports finding a good one isn’t all that easy. Mediocrity reigns and
great expectations are often shipwrecked on the rocks of reality. Also, as
no rosé usually exceeds $20 a bottle, who wants to give dad a cheap
tasteless wine?
Of
course, there is my theory of wine relativity to contend with, meaning
that “the best” has to be tempered by two facts. First, there is
one’s personal palate, which hopefully means the pinks I love you will
love too! Second, despite attempts to taste everything, there is always an
enormous sea of unassessed wine out there, meaning that the best is only
based on what I have tasted.
Keeping
this in mind, here are some of this summer’s best. Starting with cheap
and cheerful, Banrock
Station 2003 White Shiraz (386433
$9.95 general list) is obviously Australia’s answer to California White
Zinfandel. It is gently sweet, creamy and very easy to drink with honeyed
ripe strawberry flavours. Beware, it’s the kind of pink you can easily
quaff by itself without even knowing that you’re drinking – perfect
for happy-go-lucky dads.
Moving
on, if you are looking for dry rosé to accompany your dinner, let me
suggest from South Africa’s Stellenbosch region Mulderbosch
2003 Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé (999821 $12.95
vintages), which offers fine value and drinkability. Light reddish pink
colour it has an attractive, light, fresh, ripe red apple-plum purée
nose. Tangy, dry and well balanced, the gently zesty, ripe red
apple-raspberry flavours please. My only qualm is the high 13.5% alcohol.
As
any fan of rosé knows, French Tavel is the benchmark. Unfortunately, the
ones recently tasted have been overpriced disappointments, including 2003
Chateau d’Acqueria
in Vintages. These Rhone Grenache-Cinsaut blends must have the minimum
13.5% alcohol. My suggestion, save your money and go for the tasty Louis
Bernard 2003 Cotes-du-Rhone Rosé
(589408
$9.95) on the general list.
The fresh, tart strawberry aromatics make my nose tickle. It is very
light, dry and crisp on the palate, flushed with CO2 and loaded with Tavel-inspired,
white pepper tinged, frais de bois
(tiny wild forest strawberry) flavours. Unlike so many North American pink
blunders, it has finesse meaning
that you can drink many glasses without flagging.
I
also discovered that Bodegas
Julien Chivite 2002 Gran Feudo Rosé
(256149 $10.95) from Spain’s Navarra is already on the Vintages shelves.
This medium reddish pink coloured 100% Granacha has a gently warmed
strawberry nose with some black pepper notes. Dry, crisp and medium-light
bodied, it has refreshing, ripe strawberry flavours.
Ironically,
the best value rosé to pass these lips is a full-fledged sparkler and is
coming out next Saturday in Vintages. Make a beeline to Codorníu
Brut Pinot Noir Cava Rosé (665372
$16.95). Made in the Champagne methode exclusively from Pinot Noir grapes,
this is the most appealing, best value bubbly at the LCBO. It has a fine
mousse with a light salmon pink colour. The ripe plum nose is followed up
by refreshingly dry, harmonious, ripe Damson plum flavours with a hint of
tangy lemon on the finish. Move quickly – only 150 cases of 6 are
available.
As
for my dad, he is getting an IOU for the pink Spanish sparkler above,
along with tickets for Urinetown: The
Musical, where all wines ultimately come to rest (to see a
review of this very zany production click
here).
Another gift suggestion is an invitation to the Vintage’s Young
Winemakers event taking place this Wednesday, June 23, at the
Liberty Grand from 6:30 pm to 9:00 pm (tickets are $55). You can click
here
to see details of all 72 wines being presented, which are also on sale (5
to 25 cases of each are available for ordering).
2001-2002-2003-2004 Tasting Note Database
Our tasting note database from December 31, 2000 to April 2004, covers every Vintages release product for the past 40 months. There are more than 6,000 notes in the database data. Just enter the name of the product, supplier name or CSPC number. Or you can search by type of wine, country of origin, even wine agent! Nothing could be easier. Also you can get information on the agent by clicking on the agent’s name, as well as current LCBO store inventory by clicking on "Check LCBO Availability", which will automatically tell you the number of bottles at LCBO as of last night.
To use our winefind.ca Tasting Notes Database: click here
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Food & Beverage Testing Institute of Canada
2004
Prior written permission is required for any form of reproduction
(electronic or other wise) and or quotation.
Contact Michael Vaughan at
mbv@total.net