|
Get
all the evaluations for
the JUNE
Release Christoffel
Blond National Post Weekly Wine & Spirits Columnist Saturday, June 14, 2003 Launch of Winefind.ca It’s true; I am a very fussy drinker. Indeed, I have
erroneously been called “snobbish” for rarely indulging in local
brews. Certainly, you wouldn’t catch me guzzling most of the bland
mouthwash that passes for beer south of the border. And well, to be
honest, that includes a lot of the same lame Canadian stuff. Sure it’s a
matter of taste, but lets face it, mediocre beer is like bad art –
tasteless. At
one time, I would report on each new brew appearing in the monthly
Vintages release. Then one day, much to the chagrin of beer lovers and
importers everywhere, Vintages management arbitrarily decreed that no more
beer would soil their pristine shelves. And so dark days fell upon the
brewers of malt, oats, barley, wheat, rice, etc. Well maybe not rice -
Vintages still sells sake. It was a disastrous move because without the
spotlight of visibility in the Vintages catalogue, of course along with my
published reviews, sales floundered. It was, as they say, out of sight –
out of mind. Great new brews were now scattered anonymously into the
multitude of general listings. And much more evil, my beer tasting days
were over. Well it just so happened that last week I was in the LBO lab
tasting and low and behold, I came across a most delicious brew. It got my
palate twitching, like a bolt of lightening. It came in one of those small
brown bottles with a rubber-ringed ceramic top. It had a slightly hazy,
light golden yellow colour with a touch of copper. The nose initially had
a sweetish, gently honeyed, floral air but as it sat in the glass it began
to take on richer, lemony, roasted malt notes. On the palate it was solid
but bright, rich but not overly heavy with honeyed, gently malty,
Wheatabix flavours followed up by a tinge of bitter chocolate and hint of
sour lemon on the finish. In other words, it reflected an almost Zen-like
harmony with a creamy and yet still refreshing texture. It was like a
symphony where every perfectly tuned instrument added just the right
tonality. “What
could this brew be?” I wondered. I hadn’t had anything as tasty for a
long time. I stared at the brown stubby bottle. It looked very official.
Beneath the impressive coat of arms were the words Christoffel in large
black type and just beneath Blond in red. “Ah, Christoffel
Blond” (cspc 696955) I muttered quietly, demonstrating that it
definitely pays being able to read. The small letters at the bottom
revealed that it was a “Product of Limburg.” Well that was a stumper.
I had never heard of Limburg. Perhaps it’s related to Limburger, I
thought, although there was absolutely nothing cheesy about this brew. And
so I kept searching until I discovered that it was made by the
Bierbrouwerij St. Christoffel in the former coal mining-town of Roermond.
“Eureka, it’s from the Netherlands,” I sputtered while downing the
last few delicious drops. Of course, this Blond was like no other – enough to please
any discerning daddy! My eyes focused on the words “double hopped
beer.” Now I can’t remember the last time I had a double hopped beer.
I knew, however, that serious research lay ahead so I stopped at the LCBO
to pick up several bottles at a mere $2.50 a pop (330 ml). Further
examination revealed that it was brewed exclusively from water, malt, hops
and yeast. Meanwhile,
I pulled out my copy (another great Father’s Day gift) of the Ultimate Beer
by Michael Jackson
(ISBN 1-55144-197-7 click here to see the book on the
Chapters-Indigo website) and went to the section entitled Aperitifs: Extra-Dry Pilsner Lagers. There on page 126 I saw a
picture of the beer in question. It was described as “one of the world’s hoppiest Pilsner-style beers.” I had
expected this beer to go back to some twelfth century monk, but no – it
was named after the town’s saint – St. Christopher. Discovering that Leo Brand, the brewer, only founded the facility in 1986 was enough
to make me go to the fridge for a third bottle. One quirk regarding Christoffel Blond is that the alcohol
has been creeping up slowly but surely. In my 1998 edition of Ultimate
beer it was only 5%. According to Rubaiyat Wines & Spirits, the
Ontario agent, it jumped to 5.5% last year and is now hitting 6%. It made
me want to shout “enough already, it tastes great so keep it there –
don’t change.” The reason I have gone to such lengths to describe a $2.50
brew is because Christoffel Blond is a wonderful refreshing departure from
my daily wine routine. And the reason people are not running out to buy it
is because most writers fail to provide much beer coverage. With so much
promotional money being channeled into promoting wine, what chance does a
small brewery have with something that sells for a mere $2.50 a bottle? Another problem relates to the fact that the LCBO only
ordered 300 cases of 24 for its beer program. How do you launch a great
beer based on a single order? This lack of LCBO continuity means that no
matter how good the brew, we are out of luck in terms of getting it on a
regular basis. Hopefully the LCBO will do the right thing and make sure
this winner stays on its shelves! Perhaps the best thing about Christoffel Blond is that can
you drink half the bottle and cap it, put it in the fridge and enjoy it
later in the day (I can’t believe I said that). Failing at the last
task, you also get a terrific container for storing olive oil, etc. No
recycling needed.
Click Here
to go to
winefind.ca
to find which LCBO stores have this brew in stock. Subscribe to Vintage Assessments Today • Click Here
Check out the
Copyright Food & Beverage Testing Institute of Canada
2004 |