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What is classified as “white”
called “green” but is “yellow” in colour? ©
Michael Vaughan 2004
National Post
Weekly Wine & Spirits Columnist
Saturday,
July 31, 2004 LIVE
WINE LINK
www.winefind.ca
(CLICK ON THE NAME - All
listings are automatically linked to the LCBO database)
If there is a product that interests you,
just click on the name below and you will instantaneously connected with
the LCBO database. The product will appear in blue and all you have to do
is click on the name again
and then the next screen will provide details along with the store search.
Just click on store search.
The number of bottles in each store is updated nightly. You should call
the store first to see if stock still remains (each store phone number is
listed).
With
multitude of Toronto happenings this long civic holiday weekend, there is
definitely something for everyone. And this also applies to drinks. I am
sure that those attending this weekend’s Caribana festivities has already stocked up on Jamaican Appleton
rum and Red Stripe
beer. Given the possible heat and humidity, I have another idea. Why not
try a cool, low alcohol (9%), faintly effervescent, Portuguese refresher
that beats the heat.
I can’t
think of any other wine that is classified as “white”,
called “green” and is actually “yellow”
in colour. Vinho
Verde
(or green wine) is not only the name of a wine, but also a region and
style. It was legally established in 1908 and comes in a wide variety of
styles from thin, tart, crisp and very dry to joyfully mellow. It is
surprising to discover that just 30 years ago, more that three-quarters of
all Vinho Verde was actually red in colour – mostly thin stuff that sold
for just pennies a litre.
While
today’s whites are totally different, they are still extremely
reasonably priced. Of some 35 brands blind tasted earlier this week, my
best buy is Aliança
Vinho Verde
(75663), which is on a LCBO
“Limited
Time Offer” (to
see the full list of all 115 current LTO items click
here).
This means that until August 15th you can quaff the unique
taste of northern Portugal for only $7.05 a bottle (vs. the regular
$8.05). Look for lively, faintly honeyed, ripe winter melon flavours
followed up by a zingy finish.
Made
from indigenous grapes in stainless steel, freshness is key. One may be
surprised to discover that, in some instances, no vintage date appears on
the label. Such wines usually have numerous bottlings throughout the year
and frequent shipments to market. It makes getting a recent bottling
important, as most Vinho Verde is not made for aging. Unfortunately, in
some instances, no decipherable date or lot code appears on the back
label. This means that the consumer has no idea of the freshness of the
wine - a serious problem, which producers must correct. If you look at the
Alianca back label you will see the year-day lot code L4147
meaning that it was just bottled on May 26, which is the 147th
day of 2004.
Moving
on, today marks a Vintages’ first - you will be able to choose from the
initial wave of 30 pre-release items from the hefty August 7th
Vintages release (for the list of all 30 prerelease products
click
here).
Here are three recommendations. First, put a little spice in your life
with Moorhof
2002 Muskat Ottonel (728667) at $12.95,
which springs from Austria’s Burgenland. Light
straw in colour, the Muscat Ottonel grape gives this white an intense,
spicy, spearmint nose. It is fairly dry and very spicy with Muscaty-lychee
flavours followed up by a tangy finish. It’s great with curries and hot
Thai food or simply sipping with appetizers.
In
terms of well-priced reds, I was impressed with another Aliança effort,
this time a cedary red from the Portugal’s Bairrada region. It is
perfect for the BBQ and has a particular flavour reminiscent of a better
Rioja. At only $14.95 Aliança
1997 Garrafeira Tinto (950220) has a cedary
nose with lots of BBQ red pepper notes. On the palate, it is quite
intense, very dry and tangy with plummy, lingering, dried red pepper
flavours. Try with smoky BBQ meats.
If
Champagne is on you menu, try Esterlin
1992 Brut Champagne (924662) $54.95. The
nose shows good complexity
with ripe apricot, lemon mousse and hazelnuts. It still possesses a lively
mousse and has mouthfilling, nutty, lemon-lime meringue flavours. Be aware
that this is a more mature style and the antithesis of straightforward,
crispy, red apple flavours found in some of less expensive, non-vintage,
standard bearers.
“Beware”
is the word of warning to those who might be tempted by two new fancy
labels that are gracing Vintages’ shelves at $15.95. Georgia may be on
my mind, but it certainly isn’t on my tongue. These seriously
disappointing just-listed Georgia reds are produced by Kakhetian Wines and
unless you are a fan of thin, sweetish, raspberry vinaigrette, I advise
you to save you hard earned dollars.
For
discerning palates looking for the perfect California Cab to marry with
their weekend prime rib, here are two winners. Thanks to Toronto wine
agent Robert
Groh,
owner of an importing agency called The
Vine, I
was able to taste a number of his wines in the Classics catalogue. I
discovered two worthwhile Napa Valley Cabs. The first is Whitehall
Lane 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon
(606509) at $44.00, which is blended with 14% Merlot and 2% Petite Verdot
and aged for 20 months in American and French oak. A gentle charmer, it
has lots of juicy, ripe plum and cherry flavours, which are ready to enjoy
– a classy crowd pleaser.
My
hands down favourite was the bigger, exactly von
Strasser 2000 Estate Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon
(606525) at $79.00 from the Diamond Mountain District. It is loaded with
cassis, dark chocolate and dried ripe plum flavours. Not only is this a
weighty wine, but also the bottle is so heavy (and dark) that it seems
full when almost empty - a dangerous thing. This one got better as it had
a chance to breathe, meaning that you might decant it for an hour or so
prior to serving (or lay it away for 2-3 years). Although not inexpensive,
it is terrific value when compared to able to some much more costly
efforts that fetch more than twice the price. Unfortunately, these
Classics are only available in just a few LCBO stores (to see just click
on the name of the wine) and/or can be ordered through the agent (call
416-693-7994) or click
here
to visit The
Vine
website.
2001-2002-2003-2004
Tasting Note Database
Our
tasting note database from December 31, 2000 to June 2004, covers every
Vintages release product for the past 42 months. There are more than 7,000 notes in the database data. Just enter the name of the product,
supplier name or CSPC number. Or you can search by type of wine, country
of origin, even wine agent! Nothing could be easier. Also you can get information on the agent by clicking on the
agent’s name, as well as current LCBO store inventory by clicking on
"Check
LCBO Availability", which will automatically tell you the
number of bottles at LCBO as of last night.
To
use our winefind.ca Tasting
Notes Database: click
here
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** For All Visitors **
Vintages
August 2004 Release
To see the complete list of upcoming 194 products click
here
(sorted by date of release).
It
includes the number of cases, which wines were presented by the LCBO, our agent ID for every product,
as well
as, the 34 “In
Store
Discoveries”
for
August.
You can also see it sorted by
agent
click
here
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Copyright Food & Beverage Testing Institute of Canada
2004
Prior written permission is required for any form of reproduction
(electronic or other wise) and or quotation.
Contact Michael Vaughan at
mbv@total.net
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