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A Splash of Spritz 
What is classified as “white” 
called “green” but is “yellow” in colour?

© Michael Vaughan 2004
National Post Weekly Wine & Spirits Columnist
Saturday, July 31, 2004

LIVE WINE LINK
www.winefind.ca

(CLICK ON THE NAME -
All listings are automatically linked to the LCBO database)
If there is a product that interests you, just click on the name below and you will instantaneously connected with the LCBO database. The product will appear in blue and all you have to do is click on the name again and then the next screen will provide details along with the store search. Just click on store search. The number of bottles in each store is updated nightly. You should call the store first to see if stock still remains (each store phone number is listed).

With multitude of Toronto happenings this long civic holiday weekend, there is definitely something for everyone. And this also applies to drinks. I am sure that those attending this weekend’s Caribana festivities has already stocked up on Jamaican Appleton rum and Red Stripe beer. Given the possible heat and humidity, I have another idea. Why not try a cool, low alcohol (9%), faintly effervescent, Portuguese refresher that beats the heat.

I can’t think of any other wine that is classified as “white”, called “green” and is actually “yellow” in colour. Vinho Verde (or green wine) is not only the name of a wine, but also a region and style. It was legally established in 1908 and comes in a wide variety of styles from thin, tart, crisp and very dry to joyfully mellow. It is surprising to discover that just 30 years ago, more that three-quarters of all Vinho Verde was actually red in colour – mostly thin stuff that sold for just pennies a litre.

While today’s whites are totally different, they are still extremely reasonably priced. Of some 35 brands blind tasted earlier this week, my best buy is Aliança Vinho Verde (75663), which is on a LCBO  “Limited Time Offer” (to see the full list of all 115 current LTO items click here). This means that until August 15th you can quaff the unique taste of northern Portugal for only $7.05 a bottle (vs. the regular $8.05). Look for lively, faintly honeyed, ripe winter melon flavours followed up by a zingy finish.

Made from indigenous grapes in stainless steel, freshness is key. One may be surprised to discover that, in some instances, no vintage date appears on the label. Such wines usually have numerous bottlings throughout the year and frequent shipments to market. It makes getting a recent bottling important, as most Vinho Verde is not made for aging. Unfortunately, in some instances, no decipherable date or lot code appears on the back label. This means that the consumer has no idea of the freshness of the wine - a serious problem, which producers must correct. If you look at the Alianca back label you will see the year-day lot code L4147 meaning that it was just bottled on May 26, which is the 147th day of 2004.

Moving on, today marks a Vintages’ first - you will be able to choose from the initial wave of 30 pre-release items from the hefty August 7th Vintages release (for the list of all 30 prerelease products click here). Here are three recommendations. First, put a little spice in your life with Moorhof 2002 Muskat Ottonel (728667) at $12.95, which springs from Austria’s Burgenland. Light straw in colour, the Muscat Ottonel grape gives this white an intense, spicy, spearmint nose. It is fairly dry and very spicy with Muscaty-lychee flavours followed up by a tangy finish. It’s great with curries and hot Thai food or simply sipping with appetizers.

In terms of well-priced reds, I was impressed with another Aliança effort, this time a cedary red from the Portugal’s Bairrada region. It is perfect for the BBQ and has a particular flavour reminiscent of a better Rioja. At only $14.95 Aliança 1997 Garrafeira Tinto (950220) has a cedary nose with lots of BBQ red pepper notes. On the palate, it is quite intense, very dry and tangy with plummy, lingering, dried red pepper flavours. Try with smoky BBQ meats.

If Champagne is on you menu, try Esterlin 1992 Brut Champagne (924662) $54.95. The nose shows good complexity with ripe apricot, lemon mousse and hazelnuts. It still possesses a lively mousse and has mouthfilling, nutty, lemon-lime meringue flavours. Be aware that this is a more mature style and the antithesis of straightforward, crispy, red apple flavours found in some of less expensive, non-vintage, standard bearers.

“Beware” is the word of warning to those who might be tempted by two new fancy labels that are gracing Vintages’ shelves at $15.95. Georgia may be on my mind, but it certainly isn’t on my tongue. These seriously disappointing just-listed Georgia reds are produced by Kakhetian Wines and unless you are a fan of thin, sweetish, raspberry vinaigrette, I advise you to save you hard earned dollars.

For discerning palates looking for the perfect California Cab to marry with their weekend prime rib, here are two winners. Thanks to Toronto wine agent Robert Groh, owner of an importing agency called The Vine, I was able to taste a number of his wines in the Classics catalogue. I discovered two worthwhile Napa Valley Cabs. The first is Whitehall Lane 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon (606509) at $44.00, which is blended with 14% Merlot and 2% Petite Verdot and aged for 20 months in American and French oak. A gentle charmer, it has lots of juicy, ripe plum and cherry flavours, which are ready to enjoy – a classy crowd pleaser.

My hands down favourite was the bigger, exactly von Strasser 2000 Estate Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon (606525) at $79.00 from the Diamond Mountain District. It is loaded with cassis, dark chocolate and dried ripe plum flavours. Not only is this a weighty wine, but also the bottle is so heavy (and dark) that it seems full when almost empty - a dangerous thing. This one got better as it had a chance to breathe, meaning that you might decant it for an hour or so prior to serving (or lay it away for 2-3 years). Although not inexpensive, it is terrific value when compared to able to some much more costly efforts that fetch more than twice the price. Unfortunately, these Classics are only available in just a few LCBO stores (to see just click on the name of the wine) and/or can be ordered through the agent (call 416-693-7994) or click here to visit The Vine website.

2001-2002-2003-2004 Tasting Note Database
Our tasting note database from December 31, 2000 to June 2004, covers every Vintages release product for the past 42 months. There are more than 7,000 notes in the database data. Just enter the name of the product, supplier name or CSPC number. Or you can search by type of wine, country of origin, even wine agent! Nothing could be easier. Also you can get information on the agent by clicking on the agent’s name, as well as current LCBO store inventory by clicking on "Check LCBO Availability", which will automatically tell you the number of bottles at LCBO as of last night.

To use our winefind.ca Tasting Notes Database: click here

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** For All Visitors **
Vintages August 2004 Release

To see the complete list of upcoming 194 products click here
(sorted by date of release). It includes the number of cases, which wines were presented by the LCBO, our agent ID for every product,
as well as, the 34
In Store D
iscoveries” for August.
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Copyright Food & Beverage Testing Institute of Canada 2004
Prior written permission is required for any form of reproduction
 (electronic or other wise) and or quotation.
Contact Michael Vaughan at
mbv@total.net