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A Splash of Spritz ©
Michael Vaughan 2004 www.winefind.ca (CLICK ON THE NAME - All listings are automatically linked to the LCBO database) If there is a product that interests you, just click on the name below and you will instantaneously connected with the LCBO database. The product will appear in blue and all you have to do is click on the name again and then the next screen will provide details along with the store search. Just click on store search. The number of bottles in each store is updated nightly. You should call the store first to see if stock still remains (each store phone number is listed). With
multitude of Toronto happenings this long civic holiday weekend, there is
definitely something for everyone. And this also applies to drinks. I am
sure that those attending this weekend’s Caribana festivities has already stocked up on Jamaican Appleton
rum and Red Stripe
beer. Given the possible heat and humidity, I have another idea. Why not
try a cool, low alcohol (9%), faintly effervescent, Portuguese refresher
that beats the heat. I can’t
think of any other wine that is classified as “white”,
called “green” and is actually “yellow”
in colour. Vinho
Verde
(or green wine) is not only the name of a wine, but also a region and
style. It was legally established in 1908 and comes in a wide variety of
styles from thin, tart, crisp and very dry to joyfully mellow. It is
surprising to discover that just 30 years ago, more that three-quarters of
all Vinho Verde was actually red in colour – mostly thin stuff that sold
for just pennies a litre. While
today’s whites are totally different, they are still extremely
reasonably priced. Of some 35 brands blind tasted earlier this week, my
best buy is Aliança
Vinho Verde
(75663), which is on a LCBO
“Limited
Time Offer” (to
see the full list of all 115 current LTO items click
here).
This means that until August 15th you can quaff the unique
taste of northern Portugal for only $7.05 a bottle (vs. the regular
$8.05). Look for lively, faintly honeyed, ripe winter melon flavours
followed up by a zingy finish. Made
from indigenous grapes in stainless steel, freshness is key. One may be
surprised to discover that, in some instances, no vintage date appears on
the label. Such wines usually have numerous bottlings throughout the year
and frequent shipments to market. It makes getting a recent bottling
important, as most Vinho Verde is not made for aging. Unfortunately, in
some instances, no decipherable date or lot code appears on the back
label. This means that the consumer has no idea of the freshness of the
wine - a serious problem, which producers must correct. If you look at the
Alianca back label you will see the year-day lot code L4147
meaning that it was just bottled on May 26, which is the 147th
day of 2004. Moving
on, today marks a Vintages’ first - you will be able to choose from the
initial wave of 30 pre-release items from the hefty August 7th
Vintages release (for the list of all 30 prerelease products
click
here).
Here are three recommendations. First, put a little spice in your life
with Moorhof
2002 Muskat Ottonel (728667) at $12.95,
which springs from Austria’s Burgenland. Light
straw in colour, the Muscat Ottonel grape gives this white an intense,
spicy, spearmint nose. It is fairly dry and very spicy with Muscaty-lychee
flavours followed up by a tangy finish. It’s great with curries and hot
Thai food or simply sipping with appetizers. In
terms of well-priced reds, I was impressed with another Aliança effort,
this time a cedary red from the Portugal’s Bairrada region. It is
perfect for the BBQ and has a particular flavour reminiscent of a better
Rioja. At only $14.95 Aliança
1997 Garrafeira Tinto (950220) has a cedary
nose with lots of BBQ red pepper notes. On the palate, it is quite
intense, very dry and tangy with plummy, lingering, dried red pepper
flavours. Try with smoky BBQ meats. If
Champagne is on you menu, try Esterlin
1992 Brut Champagne (924662) $54.95. The
nose shows good complexity
with ripe apricot, lemon mousse and hazelnuts. It still possesses a lively
mousse and has mouthfilling, nutty, lemon-lime meringue flavours. Be aware
that this is a more mature style and the antithesis of straightforward,
crispy, red apple flavours found in some of less expensive, non-vintage,
standard bearers. “Beware”
is the word of warning to those who might be tempted by two new fancy
labels that are gracing Vintages’ shelves at $15.95. Georgia may be on
my mind, but it certainly isn’t on my tongue. These seriously
disappointing just-listed Georgia reds are produced by Kakhetian Wines and
unless you are a fan of thin, sweetish, raspberry vinaigrette, I advise
you to save you hard earned dollars. For
discerning palates looking for the perfect California Cab to marry with
their weekend prime rib, here are two winners. Thanks to Toronto wine
agent Robert
Groh,
owner of an importing agency called The
Vine, I
was able to taste a number of his wines in the Classics catalogue. I
discovered two worthwhile Napa Valley Cabs. The first is Whitehall
Lane 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon
(606509) at $44.00, which is blended with 14% Merlot and 2% Petite Verdot
and aged for 20 months in American and French oak. A gentle charmer, it
has lots of juicy, ripe plum and cherry flavours, which are ready to enjoy
– a classy crowd pleaser. 2001-2002-2003-2004
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Copyright Food & Beverage Testing Institute of Canada
2004 |