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Well-Priced German Whites
Highlight today’s Vintages Release

© Michael Vaughan 2003
National Post Weekly Wine & Spirits Columnist
 Saturday, July 26, 2003

Launch of winefind.ca
The system is foolproof and easy. If there is a wine that interests you,
just click on the name and you will instantaneously connected with the LCBO database telling you if the wine is in the LCBO system. If it is, it will appear in blue and all you have to do is click on the name again and then the next screen will provide details on the wine along with a store search. While the number of bottles in each store is updated every night, you should call the store first to see if stock still remains (each store phone number is also provided). It is that simple!
Note that all the items recommended below are connected with the LCBO database – just click on the name!

Of all countries featured in today’s 72-item Vintages release, Germany comes out on top with three, all-under $14 best buys! What is even more surprising is the fact that they all come from different vintages - 1999 to 2001.  

Starting with the least expensive, we have a well-made effort from a challenging year - the estate-bottled Le Moguen 2000 Riesling (993956) at $10.95 offers delicious value. Originating from young Ockfener Bockstein vines in the Mosel, it has an intense, ripe, lime purée nose followed up by very tangy, slightly honeyed, spicy, sweetish ripe apple flavours (10% alcohol). A fine, versatile, easy to drink summer refresher.

On the richer side, also from the Mosel, Geheimrat J. Weinguter Wegeler 1999 Riesling Kabinett (905323) at $13.95 is a definite buy. The nose is quite complex with spicy, nutty, baked apple notes. On the palate you have a very lively, surprisingly well structured, slightly sweet, ripe pear flavours with a lingering melon finish (8.5% alcohol).

Perhaps my favorite is the very spicy Werner Anselmann 2001 Gewürztraminer Kabinett (988253) at $11.95. The grapes are sourced from the Edesheimer Schloss and have very spicy, green pear and apple seed aromas. On the palate it is very well structured and rather sweet with spicy baked apple and lychee flavours (10.5% alcohol). It has a long finish and is at its peak. Originating in Pfalz, German’s sunniest wine region, it is adjacent to northern tip of Alsace.

Moving closer to home, we have the excellent Henry of Pelham 2002 Sauvignon Blanc (430546 - $14.95). This VQA effort was sourced in Niagara-on-the-Lake as well as the Bench vineyards adjoining the winery. Usually it is 75% Bench but in 2002, owner Paul Speck sourced extra grapes from Niagara-on-the-Lake thereby reversing the ratio. Light straw in colour, the nose is still slightly leesy and youthful with tangy, ripe green apple nose. On the palate you will find dry, very bright, medium light bodied, tangy Anjou pear and grassy red apple flavours (12.4% alcohol)..

Winemaker Ron Giesbrecht used stainless steel for 90% of the wine and 2-4 year old barrels to ferment the remaining 10%. “Normally about a third would be put in barrels, but we luckily got a lot of extra fruit (over 4,000 cases were produced) and ran out of barrels,” explains Giesbrecht. “And that’s a good thing because production of Sauvignon Blanc is down 80% in 2003.” It means that fans will be able to drink the 2002 all next year, which is great because this white is bound to get better and better as it ages over the next year!

It is interesting how some Ontario whites take time to evolve. Ann Sperling’s Malivoire 2002 Pinot Gris (591305 - $18.00) is another example of a well-made wine that will be better in 4-6 month’s time.

For those leisurely Sunday brunches, it is going to be hard to beat Bava 2002 Moscato d’Asti (712547) at $15.95. It is much better than the 2001, which was released only three months ago. Look for a lovely, fresh, faintly sweet, honeyed Muscat nose. On the palate it is gently sweet and honeyed with well-balanced, spritzy, spicy tangerine and Muscat flavours (5.5% alcohol).

Moving on reds, my highlight of this release is Grant Burge 2001 Miamba Vineyard Shiraz (725127) at $19.95 from South Australia’s Barossa Valley. The key words are harmony and accessibility. It has a very deep intense purple colour and spicy, nutmeg-driven, racy, dried ripe black cherry fruit nose. On the palate it is well balanced with ripe black cherry jubilee flavours and vanilla custard on the rounded, lingering finish (13.5% alcohol).  

On the best under $15 best buys is the intense deep purple coloured Falesco 2001 Vitiano (950204) at $13.95. This IGT from Umbria is a blend of equal parts of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese. The nose is quite spicy with complex, baked cherry and stewed plum notes. Solid, dry and well structured with fairly intense, prune and baked plum flavours accompanied by sandalwood-chocolate notes on the finish (12.5% alcohol). Owner/winemaker Riccardo Cotarella was named the Winemaker of the Year by Wine Enthusiast and Gambero Rosso.

Last but not least is the best rosé of July release, Bodegas Faustino Martinez 2002 Faustino V Rosado (700534) at $10.50. This 100% Tempranillo DOC Rioja has a reddish pink colour and a ripe cherry nose. It has fresh, dry, crisp, bright, ripe red cherry flavours that are both versatile and accessible (13% alcohol). Try with a steaming bowl of moules marinière.

Upcoming this weekend: Harbour Estates Winery, in partnership with the Conservation Niagara Foundation, presents “Summerlude by the Harbour” on Sunday July 27, 2003 from 1 to 5 pm featuring 18 wineries & 10 restaurants at 4362 Jordan Road, Jordan Station (click here to see the a map is posted on my website). This fundraiser will support conservation projects in the Jordan/Twenty Valley area. Tickets are $75.00 per person (with a $25 tax receipt) and can be purchased by contacting Harbour Estates (toll free) at 1-877-hew-wine.

Subscriber’s Only
To see seven brand new tasting notes (previously untasted by any wine writers) coming out in TODAY’S JULY 26th Vintages Release
INCLUDING A TERRIFIC BEST BUY
1999 BORDEAUX:
click
here

Check out our winefind.ca tasting notes database

Our tasting note database goes back to January 1, 2001 and covers every Vintages release product for the past 31 months. There are approximately 5,000 notes in the database data. Just enter the name of the product, supplier name or CSPC number. Or you can search by type of wine, country of origin, even wine agent! Nothing could be easier. When you get your search results (starting with the most recent release), click on the item name and you will instantaneously connected to the FBTI Vintage Assessments database. You will see our tasting note along with the name of the agent. You can get information on the agent by clicking on the agent’s name. Also, you can check LCBO store inventory by clicking on Check LCBO Availability. It will automatically take you to the item you want to search.

To use our winefind.ca Tasting Notes Database: click here

   

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Vintages August 2003 Release
To see the complete list of upcoming products click here
(sorted by date of release). It includes the number of cases, which wines were presented by the LCBO, our agent ID for every product, as well as, special unannounced In Store Discoveries” for August.
You can also see it sorted by agent
click here  

Check out the
August 2003 InStore Discovery

Copyright Food & Beverage Testing Institute of Canada 2004
Prior written permission is required for any form of reproduction
 (electronic or other wise) and or quotation.
Contact Michael Vaughan at
mbv@total.net