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Tutti
Frutti?
In
praise of summer fruit wines
© Michael Vaughan 2002
National
Post Weekly Wine & Spirits Columnist
National Post • Saturday,
July 13, 2002
 I
am looking at next Saturday’s fruit wine release. The timing is perfect with
an abundance of fresh berries making their seasonal debut. Somehow, I can’t
help humming “Tutti Frutti”
which
was the very first hit by Richard Wayne Penniman aka Little Richard way back in
1955. Born December 5, 1932, he was one of twelve children. His dad Charles, or
"Bud" as he was known, was a Seventh Day Adventist preacher who sold
moonshine on the side. I wondered what would Little Richard be sipping at this
time of year?
Searching the website for hints, I am dismayed to find over 4,770
“tutti frutti” entries – everything from candy and pop to china patterns
and bedding, except of course wine. Attempts to contact Little Richard himself
were unsuccessful. Nevertheless, I have a gut feeling that I know which of the
eight selections hitting Vintages next weekend he would choose.
 The
best, a sweet, succulent Ontario dessert wine Southbrook Blackberry
at $14.95 per 375 ml would be enough to make the master howl “eeeeOOOO,
Good Golly Miss Molly!” It is sweet and viscous on the palate with rich,
cassis-inspired flavours and a twist of lemon on the lingering, rhubarb-tinged
finish. Owner Bill Riedelmeier explains that every batch is slightly different
with slight variations in residual sugar (it runs about 15%) and alcohol
(13.1%). The fermentation of the blackberries is halted after seven days by the
use of a neutral grape spirit (192 proof), which is produced by Kittling Ridge.
This Silver Medal winner (2002 Toronto Wine & Cheese Show) is currently
available in the winery store on 1061 Major MacKenzie Drive in Maple just west
of Bathurst Street (open 7 days a week - call 905-832-2548).
 While
the upcoming Bellamere 2001 Cranberry
($12.95) was not presented for evaluation,
Stoney Ridge 2000 Cranberry
($12.95)
is a fairly reliable Vintages Essential and is currently available in about half
a dozen stores in the Metro area. Unfortunately, you will still have to visit
the winery in Bala (705-762-3203) to buy/taste the beautifully crafted, the
best-of-show Muskoka Lakes 2000 Cranberry
at $12.95. Click Here to see their website.
Owners Wendy Hogarth and husband Murray Johnston have two other
cranberry fruit wines for sale along with pure, uncut cranberry juice ($10.50 a
litre). It all comes from their 25 acres of “bogs” which yield over half a
million pounds of fruit. “They are just blossoming now,” says Wendy enthusiastically, “we are celebrating our farm’s 50th
anniversary – it’s great.”
 While I have no inside scoop how Vintages actually went about
selecting the wines for next Saturday’s release, I was stunned that some key
producers were totally ignored. In particular, the show-stopping Hernder 2001 Rhubarb
at $14.95 (500 ml) with its sweet but refreshing, vibrant, gorgeous rhubarb
flavours would have been sublime for this release.
 Just last week, Hernder winemaker Ray Cornell got a rejection
notice from Vintages. He was told that despite being “very good”, the timing
was wrong – his rhubarb was a spring-type wine and would not be listed now.
That is pretty disheartening news for someone who had the highest scoring fruit
wine out of 96 contenders. If you want it, you will have to order it from the
winery (905-684-3300).
The
good news is that Canada Post can now legally deliver wine anywhere in Ontario.
“This is a major breakthrough,”
exclaims Cornell, “we can now deliver a
case to Toronto for about $8.”
When
it comes to finding fruit wines on the LCBO General List, the situation is still
pathetic. If you check out the current LCBO “Summer” Price Book you will discover that not only have
prices changed, but also a raft of new and unlisted products have appeared.
Worse yet, there is still no fruit wine section. Southbrook Framboise,
for instance, is hidden under “dessert wines”, while popular fruit flavoured
wines are listed as “flavoured wine drinks.” Only four of Gallo’s six Wild
Vines entries appear here – my favourite being the very tasty, low alcohol
(6%) Gallo Wild Vines Peach
Chardonnay at $6.95.
 It’s
even harder to find the three Rodrigues fruit wines from Newfoundland, which are filed under the Kosher
wine section at the back of the book. The most exciting new General List entry
is Arbour Mist Tropical Fruits Chardonnay
a
steal at $6.95. Before you turn your nose, let me tell you that this fizzy,
sweet but refreshing blend of ripe natural pineapple, mango, passion fruit and
kiwi flavours is perfect for that sultry summer day. Why the LCBO doesn’t file
these entries under “fruit & fruit flavoured wines” is a mystery to me.
 Last
but not least from the Burgundy region of France is the great “Cherry Liqueur
of Dijon” Gabriel Boudier Guignolet De Dijon
- a wonderful alternative to Crème de Cassis and mixes perfectly with dry white
wine making an excellent alternative to a Kir.
At only $ 22.35 with 18%
alcohol, the nose exudes sweet, candied, black cherries (memories of Smith
Brother’s Wild Cherry Cough Drops). On the palate it is creamy yet refreshing
with tangy, sweet, ripe cherry flavours that show excellent persistence.
Released in Vintages on June 1st, keep it cool after opening and it
will retain its colour and freshness for at least 4 months.
Coming
Up This Week
Beginning
today, the July 13-21, 2002 Vintages Warehouse Sale
at the LCBO warehouse at 3180 Airway Drive just north of Airport Road. Non-Subscribers
Click Here
to see a map and a list of all 128 products with
discounts ranging from 12% to 42%. Subscribers
have the privilege of receiving our special
detailed list with the number of cases available along with the original
release date PLUS
THE VINTAGE ASSESSMENTS
evaluation of each item in the sale
Subscribers
Click Here
Vintage
Assessments has 5 “BEST BUYS” • 27 “RECOMMENDED” • 21 “WORTH
EXPLORING” Awards to the Upcoming Sale Items!
Henry of Pelham’s Shakespeare in the Vineyard continues to July 20. Last year Romeo and Juliet played to sold-out
audiences nightly. This year Henry of Pelham presents Pan Theatre’s A
Midsummer Night’s Dream. This entertaining spin on one of the Bard’s
most beloved romantic-comedies is flushed with doo-wop music and 1960’s
fashions, including bouffant hairdos, chiffon prom dresses, and leather trimmed
denim jackets. Heads up songs include: "Why Do Fools Fall In Love",
"Dream a Little Dream", and "Wake up Little Suzie".
Co-produced by Garden City Productions, tickets are $20 per person (250 seats
available). Shows are held under the stars on the winery lawn starting at 7 pm.
A casual pre-performance bite is available at their recently opened Coach House
Café. Call 905-892-8964 or 1-866-298-3358.
Timeout
Toronto
To
see some key worthwhile upcoming events taking place in Toronto
Click
Here
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