Vintage Assessments Home Page

Recent Articles

Archive of National Post Articles

Wintry Whites
The Best Buys in Today’s Vintages Release
Michael Vaughan
National Post • Saturday, January 12, 2002  

Welcome to the New Year, it’s a pleasure to be back.  My friend, an avid skier, mutters to me “where’s the white stuff?”  I feel like blurting out that the best white “stuff” is in today’s Vintages release.  An so while skiers and snowmobilers might gnash their teeth at the unseasonably warm weather, I' am happy to still be able to venture forth sans galoshes.

Some stellar whites are definitely worth seeking out. World wine authority/author Jancis Robinson loves the versatility of fine Riesling. Today’s Vintages release holds a fine Canadian gem we can be proud of. It’s from the 1998 vintage which may sound dangerously old for a white. In fact, when well made, this grape can produce whites that can last for decades – the secret is high acidity, often with some sweetness.

The Cilento winery is located in Woodbridge just north of Toronto. The chilled hand-picked VQA grapes for Cilento 1998 Riesling were rushed straight from the Niagara  Bench vineyards to the winery.  Alcohol is light – only 10.6%.  The residual  sweetness (2.3%) is mainly the result of the German technique (Süssreserve) which entailed adding 7% of natural sweet Chardonnay grape juice to the final blend. 

Now adding Chard to Riesling may sound unorthodox, but it worked. Winemaker Terence van Rooyen explains that “the juice was very neutral flavoured letting the Riesling flavours shine through.”  The end result (only 933 cases were produced) garnered seven major gold/silver awards, including a gold at the London International Wine Challenge  in 2000.

Rooyen confides that he personally enjoyed this wine more when it was younger.  “Many connoisseurs, however, relish the complexity Riesling develops as it ages. It’s taken three years to develop this distinctive bottle bouquet, which appeals to fans of traditional Germanic petrol-like flavours. It goes perfectly with spicy hors d’oeurves, salmon and poultry,” he adds.

Now medium-yellow in colour, the honeysuckle-lime scented nose is complimented by slightly sweet but still refreshing, complex,  melon-citrus flavours that persist on the palate. The relatively high total acidity balances the sweetness perfectly. Best yet, at only $10.95 a bottle it’s a great buy. 

Originally released last July, it’s being “refeatured” this month because it’s moving slowly. Why?  Vintages didn’t bother showing it to its own LCBO wine consultants (at either release).  Obviously, it’s pretty hard to recommend something you haven’t tasted!

Moving on, another excellent Canadian white, this time from British Columbia is Blue Mountain 1999 Pinot Blanc from the Okanagan Valley.  This one is a definite crowd-pleaser and at $16.50 a best buy. It’s dry, fresh, rather fruity, ripe lemon-apricot-pear purée flavours are definite crowd pleasers. You will have to move quickly, however, as only 84 cases are available. A word of warning, this one has a whopping13.7% alcohol, but it’s so well integrated you can’t tell.

For Chardonnay fans, there are three buys. The first, Lurton 2000 Chardonnay at $10.45 comes from Argentina’s Mendoza region. It’s medium-light bodied, bright, very crisp and dry with ripe Anjou pear flavours and orange peel notes on the lingering finish. Perfect for seafood.

Even better is a remarkable Italian entry at only $10.95. This barrel-fermented IGT from Puglia  Tormaresca 2000 Chardonnay will knock your socks off. In fact you better slip on your running shoes because there’s only 400 cases and it’s going to sell out fast. The rounded, honeyed, ripe pear purée flavours with buttery caramel notes are now at their peak. Remarkable flavours for the price.   

I wish I could wax poetic about the three white Burgundies (from $19.60 to $54.90) being released today, but none could compare to the Tormaresca! In fact, you’ll be hard pressed to do better than dig into a fine bottle of Columbia Crest 1999

Grand Estates Chardonnay at only $18.90. It’s beautifully structured and mouthfilling.  The hazelnut-driven, slightly peppery, pear flavours go on and on with some buttered toast notes on the finish.  Originating in Washington's Columbia Valley region, it’s terrific value. 

Those wanting to explore what this region has to offer,  make sure to attend the 11th Pacific Northwest Wine Fair at Roy Thomson Hall (from 6 to 8:30 pm) on Tuesday, January 29^th. For details on the 27 producers and 100+ wines, Click Here.

Last but not least, is the seriously tasty Quinta de Pedralvites 2000 from Portugal. At only $11.85, it offers great drinking value. Located in the Bairrada  region, this estate is owned by Sogrape who is producing some very serious, extremely well-priced wines. This pale straw beauty has a lovely, elegant, ripe pear nose.  It’s floral, dry, lemony, ripe Anjou pear flavours caress the palate.  Crisp, unoaked and ready to enjoy, this single estate effort is made exclusively from Maria Gomes (aka Fernão Pires) which happens to be the most widely-planted white grape in Portugal.

Copyright Food & Beverage Testing Institute of Canada 2004
Prior written permission is required for any form of reproduction
 (electronic or other wise) and or quotation.
Contact Michael Vaughan at
mbv@total.net