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Déja Vu at Vintages
Introducing the “Hey, remember me?” list

© Michael Vaughan 2003
National Post Weekly Wine & Spirits Columnist
 Saturday, January 11, 2003

I am working my way through the 73 items in today’s January 2003 Vintages release when I get this déja vu feeling. A little voice inside me says “hey, haven’t I seen you before?” Well, by George I have, although I can’t remember where or when. Unlike some experts who can purportedly remember the details of every wine they taste; I often just get a fuzzy feeling.

In order to help those with the same affliction of forgetfulness, I have come up with the “Hey, remember me” list, which will hopefully help you recall how much this previous release was liked or disliked.

One of the questions in developing such a list was: how far back in time to go? I decided that anything prior to January 2001 would be excluded, because the tasting note and scores referred to become less relevant. It is useful, however, to see how the last wine rated as it is often indicative how the current shipment will perform.

Out of today’s 73 items, for instance, 42 or 58% have appeared in Vintages over the past two years. The next question is: how many are actually identical (i.e. come from the same vintage)? In this release there are only 16 identical products. Six have the little LCBO triangles meaning that they are refeatured “previously listed” Vintages items (not new purchases). National Post readers will be able to access this exclusive information by visiting my website and typing npreader in username and password fields.

Three of my favourite whites are unoaked with various degrees of spiciness. From Germany’s Rheingau, we have the faintly off-dry, bright, ripe apple, tangerine-tinged Schumann-Nägler 2001 Riesling Kabinett Geisenheimer Kläuserweg at $16.85. In a similar vein from Alsace, we have the lively, honeyed, grapefruity André Blanck 2001 Tokay Pinot Gris at only $16.65. More opulent than the former, it has a fine lingering finish and would be perfect with poultry.

From Ontario Château des Charmes 2000 St. Davids Bench Gewürztraminer is a release “best buy” at $14.95. This outstanding Silver Medal winner from the Toronto Wine & Cheese Show has spicy, opulent, honeyed, lychee flavours that go on and on. It would work with foie gras and spicy Thai cuisine.

Perhaps the white generating the most interest in this release is California’s highly esteemed Caymus 2001 Conundrum with its rich, honeyed, canned pear and tropical fruit cocktail flavours. It is quite delicious stuff but at $43.85 it just doesn’t hit my “must try” mark. Obviously lots of people like it, Vintages bought 2,114 cases of six bottles.

There is even a fairly good example of Austria’s most popular wine. Birgit Eichinger 2001 Grüner Veltliner Strasser Wechselberg Kamptal at $15.80 is a mouthful no matter how you look at it. It has a deep yellow colour and honeyed, slightly spicy, ripe apricot, beeswax nose. The flavours are food friendly - medium bodied, dry, fairly intense, dried apricot-apple flavours with some very faintly bitter, petrol notes on the lingering finish. It may not be for everyone, but it would be perfect match with a schnitzel.

My own personal white highlight comes from New Zealand’s South Island. The Marlborough Firstland Vineyards 2001 Sauvignon Blanc 2001 at $22.35 may seem a tad high in price, but its excellent, lingering, gently grassy, ripe tangerine-citrus flavours are worth the extra price of admission. These latter orange-directed notes are from the Semillon component, which Firstland winemaker Mark Compton barrel aged for 6 months before adding to the stainless steel Sauvignon Blanc.

Moving on to reds, one of the best buys is a repeat shipment from last September, the bargain-basement priced Cave Spring 1999 Merlot at $15.95. The sweet ripe plum nose is followed up by sandalwood, chocolate and baked cherry flavours. This ripe crowd pleaser is now at its peak.

Those planning ahead for Valentines Day will thank me once they have tasted the delicious, fruity, also ready to drink Pierre Ferraud 2001Saint-Amour Domaine Toutant ‘Cuvée Saint-Valentin’ at $17.95 (or $9.45 for half bottles). The bright, medium light bodied, tangy plum and dried strawberry flavours would be terrific with steak-frites. Remember to serve it slightly chilled

If you like chocolate and cassis all wrapped up with some cedar, you should love Katnook Estate 2000 Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon at $29.00. This medium-full bodied, tasty effort is certainly well structured with a long lingering finish. Still a tad youthful, it could benefit from 2-3 years of additional aging. Only 75 cases are available.

My Bordeaux highlight at $31.45 is the Lalande de Pomerol Château La Fleur Chaigneau Vieilles Vignes 2000, which has intense, spicy, cedary, lead pencil, ripe plum tomato purée flavours along with hints of lime essence.

For those in the economy mode, two Argentine reds are definitely worth a taste. From Mendoza we have the rounded, ripe strawberry, plum-rhubarb, mocha inspired Bodega Catena Zapata 2000 ‘Alamos’ Cabernet Sauvignon at $13.95 (cspc 467944). Slightly lighter in structure is the surprisingly accessible Finca Flichman 2000 Malbec Reserva at $14.90, which is a versatile crowd pleaser. Both are perfect restaurant by-the-glass reds.

A number of very decent reasonably priced Syrah/Shiraz pepper the release. In order of preference they are: two from Australia - Elderton 2000 Barossa Valley Shiraz ($29.95) and Tollana 1999 Shiraz TR16  ($21.50) followed by the spicy Cline 2000 Syrah ($18.50) from California.

Dollar for dollar, the best red of the release is Ridge Petite 1999 York Creek Sirah at $45.95. This one always sells out and is all too rarely presented for tasting by the LCBO. It has a very intense deep purple colour and its harmonious, medium full bodied, slightly cedary, dried plum, chocolate, licorice, ripe black cherry flavours are showing beautifully. While it is certainly capable of aging, you will have to rush, as there are only 56 cases at Vintages.

 

Vintages February 2003 Release
To see the complete list of upcoming products click here
(sorted by date of release). It includes the number of cases, which wines were presented by the LCBO, our agent ID for every product, as well as, special unannounced In Store Discoveries” for January.
You can also see it sorted by agent
click here  

 

Check out the
January 2003 InStore Discovery


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Copyright Food & Beverage Testing Institute of Canada 2004
Prior written permission is required for any form of reproduction
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Contact Michael Vaughan at
mbv@total.net