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A New Look
For an award-winning Sherry

I am looking at the new label for a best buy, award-winning, winter warmer wondering why they did it. Perhaps wine labels are becoming like restaurants, in need of a facelift every so many years so as to maintain customer interest.

In this case, the switching Gonzalez-Byass Sherry from the understated traditional blue label to a bright orange cross is only likely to create problems for some of its frequent buyers: seniors will now have to liberate their spectacles. The good news is that what’s in the bottle has remained as tasty and inexpensive as ever.

Make way for the new, still best buy Gonzalez-Byass Nutty Solera Oloroso Sherry (35204) at $11.95 in today’s Vintages release. Medium-light amber in colour, the nose is intense and sweet with spicy hazelnut. Look for refined, gently sweet, rich, caramel, butterscotch and tangy candied orange rind flavours. It can be served on the rocks with twist of lemon or, better yet, by itself as a winter warmer at any hour.

If you need something stronger, look no further than Ron Matusalem Clasico Spirit of Cuba Rum (912410) at $28.95. This tasty sipper has rounded, fairly rich, slightly sweet, butterscotch, vanilla stick and coconut flavours that linger pleasantly on the palate.

Historically, Matusalem was a renowned Cuban producer of fine rum, who post-revolution started blending in Miami, only to finally end up in the Dominican Republic. It’s a bit of confusing to figure out where Matusalem rum originates as the word “Cuba” appears several times in big print on the bottle and is even embossed on the glass. As it sells in the US, we can safely assume that there isn’t a drop of the original stuff from Cuba in the bottle! Finally I was able to find the tiny, hard-to-read print on the back label, which states that it is distilled, aged and blended in the Dominican Republic.

Also puzzling is the description “Solera 10 Year Blender”, which has no legal meaning. The back label states that it is “crafted from select rums aged in new world oak and married in a 10-year Solera system” but that really doesn’t help. Normally any age mentioned in spirits must be the minimum, which is certainly not the case here.

The best buy white of today’s release comes from Italy’s Veneto. Fasoli Gino 2001 Perantonie Chardonnay (912733) at $14.95 is well priced and versatile with wide-appeal. Better yet, this unoaked white.is organic (containing 18 ppm of free sulphur). The nose is very attractive with honeyed, refreshing, ripe lemon-melon aromas. On the palate, it is dry, medium-light bodied and well balanced with refreshing, ripe pear flavours.

Moving on the whack of newly listed Italian reds, only one qualified as a best buy. Don’t miss Rocca delle Macìe 2002 Rubizzo Sangiovese di Toscana (913780) at $14.95. This blend of 95% Sangiovese Grasso and 5% Merlot has a very deep purple red colour and seductive, baked cherry nose. It’s pleasantly structured and very dry with plummy, juicy fresh red cherry flavours along with some tangy grapefruit on the finish. Not overly robust, you will find that this crowd-pleaser is at its peak.

I wish I could be more enthusiastic about the four newly listed Masi reds, but I was not moved. Only the Argentina effort got the thumbs up for value. In general, I found them to be somewhat over-extracted with peppery, hot, dried plum flavours that would challenge many dishes. Obviously, beauty is in the eye, or at least in the mouth, of the beholder.

My other release best buy is Leasingham 2000 ‘Magnus’ Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon (995787) $16.95. Originating in South Australia’s Clare Valley, it has a spicy, bright, plummy, dried cherry nose with some sandalwood notes. On the palate you have dry, well-balanced, very nicely structured, mouthfilling, plummy, juicy ripe cherry flavours, which are augmented with some toasty notes on the lingering finish. Charming!

Finally, from Portugal’s Douro comes a delicious red that shouldn’t be missed – especially those looking for something organic with an extremely low 6 ppm of sulphur. Pinto e Cruz 2000 Majara Reserva (92388) at $13.95 has an incredible number of labels/stickers attached – six plus a front and back label. The serious prizewinner is made from indigenous Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca, and Tinta Cao grapes. Look for a medium bodied red with ripe plums and black cherries on the palate and excellent length. It’s a genuine, delicious, crowd pleaser.

2001-2002-2003-2004 Tasting Note Database

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