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Under-$20
Relief
Upcoming Vintages Highlights
©
Michael Vaughan 2004
National Post
Weekly Wine & Spirits Columnist
Saturday,
February 28, 2004
LIVE
WINE LINK
www.winefind.ca
(CLICK ON THE NAME - All
listings are automatically linked to the LCBO database)
If there is a product that interests you,
just click on the name below and you will instantaneously connected with
the LCBO database. The product will appear in blue and all you have to do
is click on the name again
and then the next screen will provide details along with the store search.
Just click on store search.
The number of bottles in each store is updated nightly. You should call
the store first to see if stock still remains (each store phone number is
listed).
From
last weekend’s February 21st Vintages famine to next week’s March
feast - that sums up release quality swings. What is especially exciting
is the number of best buys all under $20, a definite blessing as tax time
looms.
Starting
off with sweet wines, of the 38 In-store Discovery (ISD) items coming out
this Friday, March 5th, André
Petit Pineau des Charentes
(709873) is a bargain at $15.95. This uniquely flavored barrel-aged blend of grape juice and
Cognac
has 17% alcohol
and may be used as an aperitif on the rocks with a twist of lemon or as
dessert wine.
The
nose is spicy and sweet with zesty tangerine peel and smoky
Cognac
notes. Taste-wise,
it is viscous with rich candied orange peel and honeyed herbal notes. Keep
it fresh by storing it in the fridge.
Another
dessert wine hitting the spot comes out next Saturday’s release (79
items). Remember that if you live out-of-town, you can order it by
11
am
next Tuesday for
delivery to your local LCBO store. I suggest you make a beeline to the first release highlight:
Thomas
Hardy
Whiskers
Blake
Tawny
Port
(478537) at $19.95. The
nose is intriguing – sweet hazelnuts, caramel, lemon meringue and key
lime pie. The palate is even better - very rich, sweet but balanced, crème
brûlée and Cointreau flavours that go on and on. My only wish is
that this extremely tasty, fortified Australian effort would rid itself of
the inappropriate “Port” descriptive.
Moving
on the whites, make way for three Austrian Grüner Veltliners. Two ISDs
will be released this Friday. My hands down favourite at $13.95 is Winzer
Krems 2002 Grüner Veltliner Kabinett Trocken Kremser Goldberg (738617),
which comes from a huge 1700-member Kremstal coop located just northwest
of
Vienna
on the
Danube
. Medium yellow
colour, the nutty, dried lemon peel nose has hints of honey. Dry,
mineral-directed and medium-light bodied, the fresh melon/ripe lemon
flavours are a perfectly refreshing foil to seafood and poultry. Only 25
cases are in the system, so you will have to beat off restaurateurs who
will be trying to nail down a few cases for their wine lists.
Also
worth exploring at the same price is Schloss
Gobelsburg 2002 Grüner Veltliner Gobelsburg
(965368),
which appears in Vintages next Saturday. The nose shows that slightly
turpy, mineral-directed, dusty lemon character. It is quite nice in the
mouth with slightly spicy, honeyed, fresh, ripe lemon-apricot flavours.
This 30-hectare Cistercian monastery estate was founded in 1740 and is
located in the
Kamptal
region just north of Kremsal. Those wishing to explore the joys of
Austrian wines might the attend VieVinum
wine
fair June 5-7, which is held
every second year in
Vienna
(see details on my
website).
Other
Saturday best buys include an attractive
Western Australia
blend of 54%
Semillon, 36% Sauvignon Blanc and 10% Chardonnay. Devil’s
Lair 2002 ‘Fifth Leg’ White
(489062)
at $19.95 has a very intense, grassy, Sauvignon Blanc-directed nose.
Crisp, dry and well balanced, the tangy, grassy, lemony-Anjou pear
flavours show excellent length – great with seafood.
The
white
release highlight is
Herdade
do Esporão 2001 Roupeiro Vinho Branco
(917898). An outstanding buy at $13.95, it originates in the dynamic Vinho
Regional Alentejano southeast of
Lisbon
and is made
exclusively from the indigenous, floral-directed, Roupiero grape. The nose
is splendid with complex, gently toasty, ripe lemon-melon fruit. Ditto fro
the taste, which is dry but harmonious with gently spicy, ripe melon-lemon
flavours. Don’t miss picking up a bottle or two of this delicious
ready-to-drink charmer - thankfully the LCBO snared 1,200 bottles of the
10,000 produced.
Moving
on to reds, we have the ready-to-drink “wine
of the month”
Rancho
Zabaco 2001 Zinfandel
Sonoma
Heritage Vines
(434605) at $19.95. Made by E & J Gallo, this
Sonoma
County
effort constitutes
a charming expression of the grape and has fine balance despite its 13.9%
alcohol level. The nose is slightly cedary, spicy and bright with ripe red
cherry notes. On the palate it is dry and yet juicy with ripe black cherry
purée flavours and tangy red currant notes on the finish. This crowd
pleaser is infinitely better that the overly sweet, tropical, maraschino
cherry driven Rosenblum
Cellars 2002 California Zinfandel
(284653 - $19.95) that resides on the all-too-often-pathetic LCBO General
List.
In
a completely different vein, the intense, very dry, earthy, chocolaty,
ripe plum flavours of Château
Le Raz 1999 Cuvée Grand Chêne
(718932) at $16.95 should grab the attention of any
Bordeaux
fan. Originating
in the French Côtes de Bergerac, this wonderful barrel aged blend of 90%
Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc is mouthfilling and showing nicely now. It
is a robust style that would work perfectly with a rare roast of beef.
My
red
release highlight
comes from Argentinean Mendoza region. At $19.95, Catena
2001 Malbec
(478727) is as good as it gets. Deep intense purple colour, complex and
yet classy nose shows ripe plum, cassis and black cherries. Refined,
bright and well structured, these ripe plum and black cherry flavours
exhibit great length. Contrary
to what appears in the Vintages Catalogue, this wine combines the
diverging virtues of two vineyards at different altitudes: Angelica (869
m) and Nicasia (914 m). A definite triumph, there are 312 cases available.
Do not confuse it with the less expensive, but also well made, Catena
2001 “Alamos” Malbec
(467951) at $12.95.
Of
course, there are other release highlights, which are known to FBTI
supporters
who have received my monthly March Vintage Assessments newsletter
reviewing every Vintages item. Supporters can use their password/username
to access the newsletter by clicking
here.
2001-2002-2003-2004
Tasting Note Database
Our
tasting note database from December 31, 2000 to January 2004, covers every
Vintages release product for the past 36 months. There are more than 5,000 notes in the database data. Just enter the name of the product,
supplier name or CSPC number. Or you can search by type of wine, country
of origin, even wine agent! Nothing could be easier. Also you can get information on the agent by clicking on the
agent’s name, as well as current LCBO store inventory by clicking on
"Check
LCBO Availability", which will automatically tell you the
number of bottles at LCBO as of last night.
To
use our winefind.ca Tasting
Notes Database: click
here
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** For All Visitors **
Vintages
March 2004 Release
To see the complete list of upcoming products click
here
(sorted by date of release).
It
includes the number of cases, which wines were presented by the LCBO, our agent ID for every product, as well
as, special unannounced “In
Store
Discoveries”
for
March.
You can also see it sorted by
agent
click
here
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Copyright Food
& Beverage Testing Institute of Canada
2004
Prior written permission is required for any form of reproduction
(electronic or other wise) and or quotation.
Contact Michael Vaughan at
mbv@total.net
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