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Today
in Vintages
Uncovering the Better Buys
©
Michael Vaughan 2004
National Post
Weekly Wine & Spirits Columnist
Saturday,
February 21, 2004
LIVE
WINE LINK
www.winefind.ca
(CLICK ON THE NAME - All
listings are automatically linked to the LCBO database)
If there is a product that interests you,
just click on the name below and you will instantaneously connected with
the LCBO database. The product will appear in blue and all you have to do
is click on the name again
and then the next screen will provide details along with the store search.
Just click on store search.
The number of bottles in each store is updated nightly. You should call
the store first to see if stock still remains (each store phone number is
listed).
Today’s
Vintages release sees 55 new items appear on the LCBO shelves.
Unfortunately, this second February coming is definitely on the lackluster
side. Even the pleasant 20-year-old Tawny Port didn’t cut the mustard at
its $29.95 per half bottle. The only item worthy of lining up for in the
blustery midwinter cold was a single bubbly!
The
whites were particularly disappointing. I felt a bit like Goldilocks
attending a wine tasting chez Three Bears: the Beringer
2000 Chardonnay (724245 - $59.95) too cedary; the
sweet, honey, lychee-driven Adler
Fels 2002 Gewurztraminer
(925719 $21.95) lacking acidity; the peppery, turpy-tinged Louis
Latour 2000 Meursault (733196 - $57.95) not worth
the money; and so it goes.
Fortunately,
the repeat of the previously recommended, tangy Anjou pear flavoured Henry
of Pelham 2002 Sauvignon Blanc 2002 (430546) $14.95
is still on track and is perfect for those who don’t relish overly
peppery, grassy flavours.
I
had hoped that the new Sandhill
2002 Burrowing Owl Pinot Blanc (541185) would live
up to the wonderful 2001 predecessor. It seems, however, that winemaker
Howard Soon has been too liberal with his use of oak as cedar notes
permeate both the nose and taste of this new effort. Nevertheless at
$14.00 the zesty, lemony, stewed rhubarb flavours are bound to be enjoyed
by some meaning that it falls into my “explorer’s selection”
classification.
Another
arrival, not quite up to its previous 2001 release, is the still tasty Weingut
Eichinger 2002 Grüner Veltliner Strasser Wechselberg
(950238) at $18.95. Originating in Austria’s Kamptal region,
it has a gently nutty, somewhat sweetish, very ripe apricot-red apple purée
nose. Well structured and just a tad off dry, it’s loaded with slightly
honeyed, spicy, ripe apricot flavours with beeswax and baked apple notes
on the lingering finish. Perfect with spicy Thai cuisine.
If
you like wood, make a beeline to the Spain’s traditional old-styled,
white Rioja: Marques
de Murrieta 1998 Ygay El Dorado de Murrieta Reserva
(914408) at $16.95. This blend of Viura and Malvasia spent 3 years in
small American oak and is reminiscent of a Fino Sherry meaning that it
isn’t for everyone. The nose is very intense, complex and toasty with
nutty, peppery, stewed hot lemon peel notes. Intense, very dry, somewhat
tart and slightly salty on the palate, the cedary, baked lemon flavours go
on and on. Great with flavourful Spanish tapas, this traditionally
fashioned Murrieta is a trip back in time.
Moving
on to the reds, as a group the Australian entries performed best with my
top score going to the previously released Chateau
Reynella 1997 Basket Pressed Cabernet/Merlot
(931741) at $29.95 from South Australia’s McLaren Vale. You will see
that the ambering edges indicate some maturity. The nose is, however,
still very much alive with spicy, gently earthy, sweetish, baked ripe plum
and chocolate. It is quite lovely taste-wise with fairly rich, maturing,
still tangy, plummy, black olive and sun dried tomato flavours with fine
length. Those who enjoy mature Left Bank Bordeaux will love this style.
In
terms of best buys, the new shipment of the estate grown Catena
Zapata 2001 Alamos Cabernet Sauvignon (467944)
at a modest $13.95 is worth a detour. Originating in Argentina’s
Mendoza region, it has a rather nutty, cedary, earthy, gently spicy,
stewed plum and black raspberry nose. These flavours carry over on the
palate, which shows good structure and a lingering chocolaty finish.
Although showing well now, it will still evolve over the next 12-18
months.
Another
best buy, is the Spanish 2001
Sierra Cantabria Rioja (983841) at only $12.95. This blend of
Tempranillo, Garnacha and Graciano has a gently spicy, dried plum and red
pepper purée nose with some vanilla and white pepper notes. On the palate
it is dry, tangy and pleasant with lightish, red cherry-plum flavours
along with some cedary, ripe lemon notes on the finish.
Of
course, there is always that complex, toasty, rich bubbly Piper-Heidsieck
1995 Brut Champagne (915199) at $59.95. Look for a gorgeous,
rich, toasty nose with lots of buttery shortbread notes. Maturing but
well-structured on the palate with mouthfilling but still balanced, ripe
apricot-lemon-lime purée flavours that show excellent length.
2001-2002-2003-2004
Tasting Note Database
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tasting note database from December 31, 2000 to January 2004, covers every
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supplier name or CSPC number. Or you can search by type of wine, country
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** For All Visitors **
Vintages
March 2004 Release
To see the complete list of upcoming products click
here
(sorted by date of release).
It
includes the number of cases, which wines were presented by the LCBO, our agent ID for every product, as well
as, special unannounced “In
Store
Discoveries”
for
March.
You can also see it sorted by
agent
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Copyright Food
& Beverage Testing Institute of Canada
2004
Prior written permission is required for any form of reproduction
(electronic or other wise) and or quotation.
Contact Michael Vaughan at
mbv@total.net
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