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Today in Vintages
Uncovering the Better Buys

© Michael Vaughan 2004
National Post Weekly Wine & Spirits Columnist
 Saturday, February 21, 2004

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Today’s Vintages release sees 55 new items appear on the LCBO shelves. Unfortunately, this second February coming is definitely on the lackluster side. Even the pleasant 20-year-old Tawny Port didn’t cut the mustard at its $29.95 per half bottle. The only item worthy of lining up for in the blustery midwinter cold was a single bubbly!

The whites were particularly disappointing. I felt a bit like Goldilocks attending a wine tasting chez Three Bears: the Beringer 2000 Chardonnay (724245 - $59.95) too cedary; the sweet, honey, lychee-driven Adler Fels 2002 Gewurztraminer (925719 $21.95) lacking acidity; the peppery, turpy-tinged Louis Latour 2000 Meursault (733196 - $57.95) not worth the money; and so it goes.

Fortunately, the repeat of the previously recommended, tangy Anjou pear flavoured Henry of Pelham 2002 Sauvignon Blanc 2002 (430546) $14.95 is still on track and is perfect for those who don’t relish overly peppery, grassy flavours.

I had hoped that the new Sandhill 2002 Burrowing Owl Pinot Blanc (541185) would live up to the wonderful 2001 predecessor. It seems, however, that winemaker Howard Soon has been too liberal with his use of oak as cedar notes permeate both the nose and taste of this new effort. Nevertheless at $14.00 the zesty, lemony, stewed rhubarb flavours are bound to be enjoyed by some meaning that it falls into my “explorer’s selection” classification.

Another arrival, not quite up to its previous 2001 release, is the still tasty Weingut Eichinger 2002 Grüner Veltliner Strasser Wechselberg (950238) at $18.95. Originating in Austria’s Kamptal region, it has a gently nutty, somewhat sweetish, very ripe apricot-red apple purée nose. Well structured and just a tad off dry, it’s loaded with slightly honeyed, spicy, ripe apricot flavours with beeswax and baked apple notes on the lingering finish. Perfect with spicy Thai cuisine.

If you like wood, make a beeline to the Spain’s traditional old-styled, white Rioja: Marques de Murrieta 1998 Ygay El Dorado de Murrieta Reserva (914408) at $16.95. This blend of Viura and Malvasia spent 3 years in small American oak and is reminiscent of a Fino Sherry meaning that it isn’t for everyone. The nose is very intense, complex and toasty with nutty, peppery, stewed hot lemon peel notes. Intense, very dry, somewhat tart and slightly salty on the palate, the cedary, baked lemon flavours go on and on. Great with flavourful Spanish tapas, this traditionally fashioned Murrieta is a trip back in time.

Moving on to the reds, as a group the Australian entries performed best with my top score going to the previously released Chateau Reynella 1997 Basket Pressed Cabernet/Merlot (931741) at $29.95 from South Australia’s McLaren Vale. You will see that the ambering edges indicate some maturity. The nose is, however, still very much alive with spicy, gently earthy, sweetish, baked ripe plum and chocolate. It is quite lovely taste-wise with fairly rich, maturing, still tangy, plummy, black olive and sun dried tomato flavours with fine length. Those who enjoy mature Left Bank Bordeaux will love this style.

In terms of best buys, the new shipment of the estate grown Catena Zapata 2001 Alamos Cabernet Sauvignon (467944) at a modest $13.95 is worth a detour. Originating in Argentina’s Mendoza region, it has a rather nutty, cedary, earthy, gently spicy, stewed plum and black raspberry nose. These flavours carry over on the palate, which shows good structure and a lingering chocolaty finish. Although showing well now, it will still evolve over the next 12-18 months.

Another best buy, is the Spanish 2001 Sierra Cantabria Rioja (983841) at only $12.95. This blend of Tempranillo, Garnacha and Graciano has a gently spicy, dried plum and red pepper purée nose with some vanilla and white pepper notes. On the palate it is dry, tangy and pleasant with lightish, red cherry-plum flavours along with some cedary, ripe lemon notes on the finish.

Of course, there is always that complex, toasty, rich bubbly Piper-Heidsieck 1995 Brut Champagne (915199) at $59.95. Look for a gorgeous, rich, toasty nose with lots of buttery shortbread notes. Maturing but well-structured on the palate with mouthfilling but still balanced, ripe apricot-lemon-lime purée flavours that show excellent length.

 

2001-2002-2003-2004 Tasting Note Database

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Vintages March 2004 Release

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Copyright Food & Beverage Testing Institute of Canada 2004
Prior written permission is required for any form of reproduction
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Contact Michael Vaughan at

mbv@total.net