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Heart-throbbing Vintage Valentine values

© Michael Vaughan 2004
National Post Weekly Wine & Spirits Columnist
 Saturday, February 14, 2004

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It isn’t always easy to track down the perfectly seductive wine for your Valentine. I remember inviting a prospective girlfriend over for a romantic fireside dinner and serving a decanted, fine, very pricey, bottle of Bordeaux. Imagine my sense of deflation when I discovered that she didn’t drink reds. Thus, rule number one is to check out the preferences of your prospective partner.

The second rule is that while diamonds may be a gal’s best friend, there’s nothing like a glass or two good bubbly to get things kick started. My first choice for that special Valentine celebration is the classic, light salmon coloured Laurent-Perrier NV Champagne Cuvée Rosé Brut (158550 Vintages Essential) at $66.95 along with 7 bonus Air Miles. Made entirely from Pinot Noir grapes, it comes in a seductively shaped “pot de Champagne” bottle dating back to the 17th century. Look for an attractive, gently plumy nose and very dry, ripe plum and elegant light strawberry flavours.

If you want to choose something closer to home at even a better price, don’t miss the just-released Henry of Pelham. ‘Cuvée Catharine’ Rosé Brut (616458 Vintages) at $27.95. This very fine VQA effort from the Niagara Peninsula also has a light salmon pink colour but without as much effervescence as Champagne. It is respectively dry on the nose with fine, attractive, fresh, ripe strawberry notes. Although basically dry, it is just faintly sweeter on the palate with lively, slightly tangy, rather juicy, ripe strawberry-cherry flavours. Referred to as a “Method Traditionnelle” this blend of 78% Pinot Noir and 22% Chardonnay spent 30 months aging on the lees vs. 48 months for the Laurent-Perrier.

Fortunately, those in deep economy mode need not be deprived from tasting great bubbly. Everyone is certain to enjoy a bubbly glass of Spain’s Codorniu Brut Clasico (503490 general list), which is bargain-priced at only $10.95 and has even outperformed some of the lesser brands of Champagne. 

Moving on to whites, it is always important to get the right white to match seafood and poultry. As Chardonnay is the world’s most popular grape, it is a pretty safe bet for your Valentine. Without wanting to seem cheap, I have been trying to find something to beat the recommended California Talus 2002 Chardonnay (473462 general list), which has delicious, complex, toasty, ripe pear purée flavours at a mere $11.95 a bottle. No success yet!

If you feel you have to get a more upscale Chard, try the recent InStore discovery Domaine Patrick Javillier 2001 Bourgogne Blanc Cuvée des Forgets (Vintages 734863) $28.95. Although it is just a Bourgogne, you will find the spicy, rich, ripe Anjou pear nose complete with buttered toast most alluring. It is a winner on the palate - dry, medium bodied, tangy, ripe Anjou pear flavours balanced by solid, ripe lemon acidity and a fine toasty finish. A definite destination!

Moving on to reds, from last week’s Vintages release comes a delicious new entry from Portugal’s Douro that shouldn’t be missed – especially if you are looking for something organic with a miniscule 6 ppm of sulphur. Pinto e Cruz 2000 Majara Reserva (92388) at $13.95 comes festooned with whopping eight labels/award stickers on each bottle. This serious, non-run-of-the-mill, prizewinner is made from indigenous Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca, and Tinta Cao grapes. Look for a medium bodied red with juicy ripe plums and black cherries on the palate along with a pleasing lingering finish. A glass of this delicious, versatile, Valentine value will make you bush that you haven’t looked at Portuguese values long ago.

Last but not least is a little gem from South Australia’s Clare Valley. At only $16.95 Leasingham 2000 ‘Magnus’ Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon (995787) is going to be very hard to beat. You should be moved by one whiff of the spicy, bright, plummy, dried cherry nose. On the palate it is dry and well-balanced with very nicely structured, mouthfilling, juicy ripe cherry flavours, which are augmented with some toasty notes on the lingering finish. Simply charming!

 

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Vintages March 2004 Release

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Copyright Food & Beverage Testing Institute of Canada 2004
Prior written permission is required for any form of reproduction
 (electronic or other wise) and or quotation.
Contact Michael Vaughan at

mbv@total.net