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Robust reds for hearty winter fare
Shiraz to the rescue

© Michael Vaughan 2003
National Post Weekly Wine & Spirits Columnist
 Saturday, February 1, 2003

When it rains it pours. And so occasionally it is with Vintages releases. Come next Saturday, for instance, all 144 items hit the shelves at once. Hopefully today’s article will help you plan your purchases ahead of time, especially for those who live out-of-town and are able to place their Vintages orders in advance by 11 a.m. Tuesday, February 4th. 

With all this ice cold whether, I usually retreat to the warmth of the kitchen to prepare robust comfort foods to fend away the winter blues. Remnants of confit of duck, cassoulet, lamb shanks and stews litter our fridge and freezer.

For me, rich hearty reds are the perfect match. Fortunately, today’s Vintages release has a bevy of excellent well-priced Syrah-Shiraz to take the bluster out of winter.

First of all we have three choice reds from down-under, which are all too often reserved for the summer barbie. Kick off with Sandalford 1999 Western Australia Shiraz ($20.80) we have fairly alcoholic (14.5%) rich, toasty, plumy, sandalwood flavours with some chocolaty notes on the lingering finish.

Even better is South Australia’s Yalumba 1999 Barossa Valley Shiraz a best buy at $19.95. Even though is has a tad less alcohol (14%), it is very extracty on the palate with lots of still youthful, peppery, black cherry, sun dried tomato flavours. This blockbuster spent 18 months in oak and will even be better with a year or so of aging.

Those willing to invest $29.95, however, will be rewarded with one of the best reds of the release - Rosemount Estate 1999 Shiraz from their Orange Vineyard in New South Wales. It is much more forward tasting than the latter with wonderfully accessible, harmonious, bright, dried black cherry fruit on the palate delicious blueberry-rhubarb vanilla crumble flavours on the finish. 

Be forewarned if you are tempted to try the most expensive entry of the release - Yering Station 1998 Shiraz Reserve at $37.60. The bottle tasted (13.1%) was swamped with idiosyncratic, very earthy, barnyard-driven, sun dried tomato flavours. It comes from the vineyards where Victoria’s first vineyards were established way back in 1838. It is unfiltered and made from grapes yielding less than one ton per acre.

For my palate and pocketbook, some of the best buys are blends from France. One wonderful buy from the Midi is Suzette Lignères 200 Château La Baronne at only $15.30. It may be mostly Carignan, in this case blended with some Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre, but the concentration of flavours from these low yielding 100-year-old vines is sensational. Look for slightly smoky, baked ripe plum and cherry tomato flavours that show excellent length. Other than low yield, being non-filtered translates into more flavour and concentration.

Of course the northern French Rhone is the home of great Syrah. Unfortunately, we can’t all afford Hermitage classics and so I am glad to report that there are some excellent values in this release. Dominique Rocher 2000 Cairanne Côtes-du-Rhône Villages at $19.90, for instance, is worth a detour. This blend of 65% old vine Grenache, 30% Syrah and 5% Mourvèdre is at its peak. The plump but still bright, tangy, medium bodied, fruity, ripe plum flavours are blessed with fine rounded tannins.

My number one choice, however, would have to be Château Val Joanis 1999 Réserve Les Griottes at $22.40. This stunning Côtes-du-Luberon Syrah was blended with 10% Grenache ands matured in Allier oak for six months. It is neither fined nor filtered, once again explaining the sublime texture and length. Last year the 350 cases ordered by Vintages immediately disappeared off the shelves. Is it any wonder that I, along with the agent, am perplexed by the reduced shipment to only 250 cases for the superior 1999? Buy this and you will experience delicious, bright, slightly cedary, juicy, baked black cherry and green olive flavours that go on and on.

As for the high-flying reds of Italy, you need not rush out to buy Frescobaldi/Mondavi 1998 Luce Della Vite at $99.00, nor Antinori 1999 Tignanello at $89.70. It’s not that they are bad; they are good but unfortunately for my palate just not worth the money.

Much less expensive is the silky, ready to drink Le Corti 2000 Principe Corsini Chianti Classico at $22.70. A portion of the blend has been aged in high quality French oak giving the wine faintly smoky, lime purée notes. It is showing very nicely now with rich, mouthfilling, baked ripe plum and sun dried tomato flavours.

Rioja fans should enjoy Muga 1998 Unfiltered Reserva Rioja at $22.85. This traditional blend of 70% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha and 10% Mazuelo/Graciano was aged 24 months in small oak. It has very dry, medium bodied, somewhat earthy, cedary, sandalwood and lemony, baked plum flavours.

As a devout fan of Pinot Noir, I have saved my two recommendations for last. The first is a surprisingly tasty effort from California - the cedary, baked black cherry flavoured Santa Barbara Winery 2000 Pinot Noir from the Santa Ynez Valley. It represents excellent value at $22.60.

Last but not least is the finest Burgundy to hit these lips in quite some time. You will simply not find better value than Vincent Girardin 1999 Santenay 1er Cru ‘Les Gravières’ Vieilles Vignes at $38.90. It has a deep purple red colour with a slightly smoky, red pepper purée nose. On the palate it is very well structured with ripe red cherry fruit flavours.

Keep in mind the Wine Establishment’s “Great Stuff Great Prices” Warehouse Sale on Princess Street (between the Esplanade and Front St.) on today from 10am. - 5pm.and tomorrow from 1pm. - 5pm. For details call 416-861-1331.

 

Vintages February 2003 Release
To see the complete list of upcoming products click here
(sorted by date of release). It includes the number of cases, which wines were presented by the LCBO, our agent ID for every product, as well as, special unannounced In Store Discoveries” for January.
You can also see it sorted by agent
click here  

 

Check out the
January 2003 InStore Discovery


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Copyright Food & Beverage Testing Institute of Canada 2004
Prior written permission is required for any form of reproduction
 (electronic or other wise) and or quotation.
Contact Michael Vaughan at
mbv@total.net