www.winefind.ca
(All wines/spirits listed below are automatically linked to the lcbo database) 
If there is a product that interests you, just click on the name below and you will instantaneously connected with the LCBO database. The product will appear in blue and all you have to do is click on the name again and then the next screen will provide details along with the store search. Just click on store search. The number of bottles in each store is updated nightly. You should call the store first to see if stock still remains (each store phone number is listed).

I haven’t seen as many bubblies pop up in a Vintages release since just prior to the Millennium. Unfortunately, it almost took two years for the LCBO rid itself of the celebratory glut. Sales have been flat and pundits are now hoping for a turn around. Certainly we can use a little pick-up after the annus horribilus we have suffered here in Toronto.

First, it is important to get the facts straight. There is only one Champagne and it doesn’t come with a fuzzy little duck. The French original comes in many styles and at a variety of prices, none of which could be called “cheap.” Unfortunately, they also vary greatly in quality - some are fantastic, while others are disappointing!

Here at the LCBO, there are 19 items (14 distinct brands) on the General List, the cheapest weighing in at $41.95. We have to add to this, another 31 Champagnes released in Vintages this year, of which 18 are making their debut today. There are also 6 “Essential” and 5 “In-Store Discovery” Vintages items. Add to this 11 in Classics plus the special Salon/Crystal offering (with 20 and 7 items respectively) and you have a lot of bubbly to choose from. 

The cheapest in today’s release is Cattier Brut Premier Cru Champagne (919464), which costs a mere $34.95. It’s the perfect choice for neophytes who haven’t developed a taste for fine Champagne . Look for honeyed, just off dry, slightly spicy, warm ripe red apple purée flavours with a gentle mousse. Although not as good as previous shipments, at least one can boast of having served the real thing.

Infinitely better, at only $39.95 is the well-structured, harmonious Lanson ‘Black Label’ Brut Champagne (41889). It has appeared twice this year in Vintages and, fortunately, the LCBO pantry is still full of this best buy. Those who enjoy this style but want even more body will love Bonnaire Brut Blanc De Blancs Grand Cru Champagne (721035), which is very well priced at $42.95 in today’s Vintages release. It has mouth filling, rich, creamy, toasty, lingering, ripe lemon-apricot purée flavours. It qualifies as a bubbly that could be consumed throughout the entire meal.

If you are looking for a perfect crowd-pleaser, don’t miss Lechère À Avize Brut Champagne Premier Cru Cuvée Speciale ‘Venice-Simplon Orient Express’ (733824) also in today’s release at $49.95. This dry but not austere, rounded, well-balanced sparkler has fresh lavender, honey and ripe apricot-citrus flavours that show good length.

Those searching for elegance/finesse shouldn’t miss this month’s only Vintages Champagne “Limited Time Offer” (referred to as an LTO). The price of this Vintages Essential Laurent-Perrier Brut L.P. Champagne (340679) went from $49.75 to $45.75 until the end of the month. The crisp, very dry, bright, ripe lemon and fresh red apple flavours are perfect with creamy oysters. Fans of genuine pink shouldn’t miss Laurent-Perrier Cuvée Rosé Brut Champagne (158550) at $66.95. Look for hints of fresh, ruby grapefruit on the nose and medium-light bodied, subtle wild strawberry flavours in this 100% Pinot Noir.

Another LTO item, this time from the General List, is the newly packaged Pol Roger Brut Extra Cuvée Reserve (51953), which has dropped from $45.95 to $41.95 until January 4, 2004 . It is a shame that we haven’t seen a return of the outstanding, bargain priced Pol Roger 1993 Brut Chardonnay (96685) at  $64.95.

The best value in today’s release is the remarkable Möet & Chandon Brut Impérial 1996 Champagne  (461152) at $74.95. I was transfixed by the depth of colour (both bottles), which suggests that it is older than it actually is. While a vintage Champagne is subject to qualitative variability, connoisseurs inevitably get the best value for their buck, as the character hasn’t been blended away. The nose of this 1996 is complex and toasty with melted butter, limes and apricot purée. On the palate it is medium-full bodied and rounded with ripe lemon-apricot and buttered toast flavours followed up by a solid lingering finish. It weighs in with 12.9% alcohol (definitely on the high side) and is definitely the choice for champions.

The biggest disappointments in today’s release are Bollinger “Special Cuvée” and Bollinger 1990 Extra Brut 1990 R.D. ($62.95 and $129,95 respectively). I tasted two bottles of each and both seemed to have cooked, oxidative notes. I can only surmise that something has happened (probably excessive heat) during the shipment and/or storage of these Champagnes as the fruit component in each has been compromised.

Finally for the “money-is-no-object” set, let me recommend Krug ‘Grande Cuvée’ Champagne Brut (349688)     which will set you back $176.90 from last month’s Vintages release. The slightly honeyed, buttery, brioche nose has some ripe lemon zest notes. On the palate it is creamy and well structured with wonderful mousse and fine ripe lemon flavours on the lingering finish. Penny pinchers might take advantage of half bottles, which are part of this month’s In-Store Discovery (935619 - $89.95).

As for the ultimate guide to sparkling wines, there isn’t a more knowledgeable specialist than Tom Stevenson and his new, fully revised and updated edition World Encyclopedia Of Champagne & Sparkling Wine (ISBN 1-891267-61-2) at $96.95 (Wine Appreciation Guild). Originally published in 1998, this is the best in-depth guide to sparkling wines from Champagne to California , Italy to Australia . There are dozens of profiles of key producers accompanied by tasting notes and recommendations. Stevenson has authored of 14 books and won of 21 literary awards (including 13 for his works on Champagne ). He has been voted Wine Writer of the Year three times. This beautifully illustrated effort with over 600 full color photographs/illustrations is the ultimate for those who have a passion for bubbly. Unfortunately, it is yet another example of a book that has been poorly distributed in Canada.

Finally, as of tomorrow (Sunday, December 7, 2003) National Post readers can get free access to all 180 current Vintages December 6th reviews on my website using the npreader password click here. Who said there is no Santa Claus?

• For new subscribers here is our extra special holiday E-Mail gift promotion - click here. 

• Current FBTI supporters can give a Vintage Assessments gift subscription at half the regular price - click here!

2001-2002-2003 Tasting Note Database

Our tasting note database from December 3 1, 2000 to November 2003, covers every Vintages release product for the past 34 months. There are more than 5,000 notes in the database data. Just enter the name of the product, supplier name or CSPC number. Or you can search by type of wine, country of origin, even wine agent! Nothing could be easier. Also you can get information on the agent by clicking on the agent’s name, as well as current LCBO store inventory by clicking on "Check LCBO Availability", which will automatically tell you the number of bottles at LCBO as of last night.

To use our winefind.ca Tasting Notes Database: click here

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Check out the
January 2004 InStore Discovery

Copyright Food & Beverage Testing Institute of Canada 2004
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Contact Michael Vaughan at
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