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Vintage Holiday Treasures Galore 
California Gems from Bubbly to Pinot Noir

© Michael Vaughan 2004
National Post Weekly Wine & Spirits Columnist
Saturday, December 4, 2004

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The big man in red arrives three week’s today. It’s enough to send shivers down my spine as I struggle to figure out what I am buying for whom and, perhaps even more important, what I am going to serve. The latter concern can be easily addressed in today’s gargantuan Vintages release. With some 170 items hitting the shelves, it is the biggest single day release in many years. This is especially the case if you add to this 43 new in-store discoveries, which hit the shelves yesterday, Fortunately, from start to finish there are some very special treasures for the holiday season – perfect for gifting or stashing away or entertaining.

Kicking off with the sparkling wines, out of today’s new 36 Vintages listings, if I had to buy a single bubbly it would be Roederer Estate Brut Rosé (479758) at $36.95. Its visually alluring brilliant light salmon pink colour is studded with a multitude of tiny bubbles all rushing towards the surface. The nose is absolutely delightful showing good complexity with ripe, gently honeyed, Damson plum and wild strawberry notes. On the palate it is dry and smooth with fine bright acidity and mouthfilling, gently complex, lingering, plumy, wild strawberry flavours.

Of course, some may feel that this is too much to pay for a mere bottle of California bubbly. Let me point out that you can spend a lot more for a less satisfying bottle of the real thing. The bottom line is that the house of Louis Roederer, which is based in Reims (pronounced “ronz”), is well known for its ultra-premium Cristal line and has consistently made what may well be North America’s best sparkler.

The grapes, in this case a blend of estate-grown Pinot Noir (60%) and Chardonnay (40%), hail from the cool coastal Anderson Valley, which is a unique designated AVA (American viticultural area) subsection of the Mendocino wine region in northern California, 130 km north of San Francisco. Only the cuvée (first pressing of 120 gallons/ton) is used - no premiere or deuxieme taille. The decidedly cooler climate permits the evolution of full fruit flavours resulting in sparklers that show an abundance of refined fruit along with fine healthy levels of total acidity (9.8).

Winemaker Arnaud Weyrich adds from 10 to 20% of oak-aged wines from the Estate's reserve to the blend, creating a multi-vintage cuvée in the traditional Roederer style. Five percent Pinot Noir is added for color prior to secondary fermentation and no malolactic fermentation is used. Made in the classic fashion, it is permitted to age for a minimum of two years on the yeast. This and its companion white, the Vintages Essential Roederer Estate Brut (294181) at $32.95 would be admirable holiday choices.

Moving on, my best value white is Babich 2002 Riesling (642694) at only $17.95. This treasure has a wonderfully complex, lemon meringue pie nose. On the palate, it is fairly dry; medium bodied and well balanced with crisp, key lime pie and ripe apple flavours. This treasure from the Marlborough region of New Zealand’s South Island hit the shelves yesterday and with only 56 cases available, you will have to move quickly.

Bargain hunters will be seriously impressed with the delicious ripe pear puree flavours of Perrin & Fils 2003 Reserve Blanc (499509) at $13.95. This miracle French Côtes du Rhône white is a blend of 50% Grenache Blanc, 20% Bourboulenc, 10% Marsanne, 10% Roussanne and 10% Viognier. It has a medium yellow colour confirming the ripeness attained during this hot year. The nose sings - honeyed, gently spicy, ripe, red apple compote. On the palate, the dry, harmonious, gently honeyed, ripe Anjou pear flavours whisper, “drink me!”

Moving on to reds, I have finally have found a delicious Pinot Noir that will go well with roast turkey. Make way for Morgan 2002 Pinot Noir Twelve Clones (642249) an in store discovery at $33.95 from the Santa Lucia Highlands. Weighing in with 14.2% alcohol, this well structured effort shows medium-full bodied grip and exudes ripe plum, hints of cedar and lots of juicy ripe cherry purée flavours. Halleluiah!

A less expensive red, which would also go well with the big bird (or even a steak), comes from California’s Sonoma County. Rodney Strong 2000 Merlot (497933) at $24.95 is loaded with fruit. Deep intense purple red in colour, the nose shows spicy, cedary, juicy, plum and cherry fruit. It is nicely structured on the palate with ripe plums and gently juicy dried black cherry flavours along with some lingering cedar notes.

Holiday bargain hunters should love the new edition of Rhone-inspired 2003 Goats Do Roam (718940) at $11.95, which comes from South Africa’s Western Cape. Deep intense purple in colour, the nose shows good complexity with spicy, gently smoky, strawberry-plum fruit. The lingering, fairly intense, mouth filling, juicy, smoked strawberry flavours will do wonders with turkey or even barbeque ribs, assuming it warms up enough to venture outside for one last grill.

Last but not least is a release highlight from Australia’s New South Wales. Move over Sauterne and icewine, De Bortoli 2002 Noble One (917252) at $27.95 for 375 ml is a remarkable sweetie to experience. Made from botrytis Semillon, the nose is sweet and complex with caramel-tinged hints of the finest Tokay and Sauternes. On the palate, it is creamy, sweet and succulent with caramel, Seville orange marmalade and candied grapefruit rind flavours. Perfect with dessert or even a foie gras starter!