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Bountiful 2004 Harvest at Vintages ©
Michael Vaughan 2004
LIVE
WINE LINK While always
a bit suspicious of those lists of the year’s top picks, I am like a
moth, lured by the flame. It is impossible to pinpoint all the highlights
of the cornucopia offered at the LCBO - 2,405 items have appeared in
Vintages alone over the past year. While one might complain: “if you can’t buy it, who cares”, I have included some items
still available and/or upcoming best buys in bold type. To
begin with, there is the year’s best bubbly. First, a high price alone
doesn’t make it a winner - many highly rated bubblies were surprisingly
reasonable. So while one might guess that Salon, Krug, Dom Pérignon or
Cristal would come out on top, it was my bargain-priced sleeper
recommended last February at only $59.95. Those of you who snagged some Piper-Heidsieck
Vintage 1995 Brut Champagne
(915199) were extremely lucky. The gorgeous, toasty nose with its buttery
shortbread notes is followed up by rich, lingering, ripe
apricot-lemon-lime purée flavours. Stunning! Realizing that not everyone jumps up and down for toasty, complex “goût Anglais” styled Champagne; there are a wide variety of styles out there to suit every palate. I shed no tears, however, at the recent demise of Pommery Pop Extra Dry, which came in a 200 ml format ($14.25) with a straw. This delisting was probably due to its rather dubious price-quality ratio at $53.44 per full bottle. Numerous comparative blind tastings demonstrated that better flavour could be had at a fraction of the price – especially when one considers that Pop was not fermented in the bottle and as a result had less pressure (measured in atmospheres) than its siblings (in full bottles). Moving
on, the most improved wines tasted in Vintages in 2004 came from Argentina
followed by Spain. From the former, I am pleased to say that Vintages
really hit the mark in selecting a steady stream of extremely well priced,
tasty reds. In fact, proportionately speaking, this year’s Vintages
release of 17 Argentine reds drew more best buy recommendations than any
other wine region! It all started with last January’s juicy Runtini
2002 Cabernet Sauvignon (723288) at $13.95 last, then February’s
wonderful Catena
Zapata 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon (467944) at $13.95 and so it
continued month after month. Happily,
it continues still with January’s upcoming best buy highlight Bodega
Salentein 2002 Malbec (640854). This
great “in-store discovery” at a modest $16.95 should be hitting the
shelves next Friday, January 7th. This deep intense purple
coloured elixir has a fragrant, juicy, ripe Damson plum nose and is ready
to enjoy with delicious, juicy, ripe black cherry purée flavours and
lingering finish. Move quickly as only 50 cases are available. While
I have always been impressed with Codorniu
methode Champenoise sparklers, many of Spain’s 91 Vintages releases over
the past 12 months were definitely on target. Starting
with whites, the solid, traditional styled, toasty Muga
2002 Rioja Blanco (958736)
kicked off the year at a modest $15.95. The stream of well-made whites
continued into the Fall, which saw the release of two Rioja-antithesis
best buys, including the delightful honeyed, peach-pear flavoured Bodega
Hermanos Lurton 2003 Rueda Blanco
(608901) at $13.95 and the floral, ripe melon flavoured 2003
Viñas Del Vero Blanco
(642082)
from Spain’s Somantano region at $11.95. Happily, both are still
available in Vintages. In
terms of Spanish reds, some very exciting things are happening in Rioja,
especially in the more reasonably priced echelon. Bodegas
Beronia 2001 Rioja Tempranillo “Elaboracion Especial”
(723643 - $16.95), for instance, continued its path breaking red, which is
fermented in the barrel, with great success. Spilling over on to the
general list, is a best buy: the surprisingly juicy, plummy, black cherry
flavoured Bodegas
Palacio 2003 Vina Portil
(636936) at only $11.95 - a junior Crianza without excessive barrel aging! Here
at home, out of some 40 Canadian reds appearing in Vintages, the top rated
was Magnotta
2001 Enotrium Gran Reserva VQA Niagara Peninsula
(589705) at $43.95. This bold Amarone-styled Meritage blend is sold out at
the winery, where there is wait list for the 2002. I did, however, track
down 7 bottles, which are still available in Oshawa at the Taunton Road
store - call 905-576-5223 first. If
I have one wish for the upcoming year, it is that the LCBO be more
proactive and track down better Canadian wines. Of 170 presented in
Vintages, 50 were icewines and only 29 came from BC. A perfect candidate
would be Sumac Ridge
2000 Pinnacle,
which was the best Canadian red I tasted this year and is still available
at the winery.
Happy New Year 2001-2002-2003-2004
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Copyright Food & Beverage Testing Institute of Canada
2004 |