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A Bountiful 2004 Harvest at Vintages
Many outstanding-well priced selections

© Michael Vaughan 2004
National Post Weekly Wine & Spirits Columnist
Friday, December 31, 2004

LIVE WINE LINK
www.winefind.ca

(CLICK ON THE NAME -
All listings are automatically linked to the LCBO database)
If there is a product that interests you, just click on the name below and you will instantaneously connected with the LCBO database. The product will appear in blue and all you have to do is click on the name again and then the next screen will provide details along with the store search. Just click on store search. The number of bottles in each store is updated nightly. You should call the store first to see if stock still remains (each store phone number is listed).

While always a bit suspicious of those lists of the year’s top picks, I am like a moth, lured by the flame. It is impossible to pinpoint all the highlights of the cornucopia offered at the LCBO - 2,405 items have appeared in Vintages alone over the past year. While one might complain: “if you can’t buy it, who cares”, I have included some items still available and/or upcoming best buys in bold type.

To begin with, there is the year’s best bubbly. First, a high price alone doesn’t make it a winner - many highly rated bubblies were surprisingly reasonable. So while one might guess that Salon, Krug, Dom Pérignon or Cristal would come out on top, it was my bargain-priced sleeper recommended last February at only $59.95. Those of you who snagged some Piper-Heidsieck Vintage 1995 Brut Champagne (915199) were extremely lucky. The gorgeous, toasty nose with its buttery shortbread notes is followed up by rich, lingering, ripe apricot-lemon-lime purée flavours. Stunning!

Realizing that not everyone jumps up and down for toasty, complex “goût Anglais” styled Champagne; there are a wide variety of styles out there to suit every palate. I shed no tears, however, at the recent demise of Pommery Pop Extra Dry, which came in a 200 ml format ($14.25) with a straw. This delisting was probably due to its rather dubious price-quality ratio at $53.44 per full bottle. Numerous comparative blind tastings demonstrated that better flavour could be had at a fraction of the price – especially when one considers that Pop was not fermented in the bottle and as a result had less pressure (measured in atmospheres) than its siblings (in full bottles).

Moving on, the most improved wines tasted in Vintages in 2004 came from Argentina followed by Spain. From the former, I am pleased to say that Vintages really hit the mark in selecting a steady stream of extremely well priced, tasty reds. In fact, proportionately speaking, this year’s Vintages release of 17 Argentine reds drew more best buy recommendations than any other wine region! It all started with last January’s juicy Runtini 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon (723288) at $13.95 last, then February’s wonderful Catena Zapata 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon (467944) at $13.95 and so it continued month after month.

Happily, it continues still with January’s upcoming best buy highlight Bodega Salentein 2002 Malbec (640854). This great “in-store discovery” at a modest $16.95 should be hitting the shelves next Friday, January 7th. This deep intense purple coloured elixir has a fragrant, juicy, ripe Damson plum nose and is ready to enjoy with delicious, juicy, ripe black cherry purée flavours and lingering finish. Move quickly as only 50 cases are available.

While I have always been impressed with Codorniu methode Champenoise sparklers, many of Spain’s 91 Vintages releases over the past 12 months were definitely on target. Starting with whites, the solid, traditional styled, toasty Muga 2002 Rioja Blanco (958736) kicked off the year at a modest $15.95. The stream of well-made whites continued into the Fall, which saw the release of two Rioja-antithesis best buys, including the delightful honeyed, peach-pear flavoured Bodega Hermanos Lurton 2003 Rueda Blanco (608901) at $13.95 and the floral, ripe melon flavoured 2003 Viñas Del Vero Blanco (642082) from Spain’s Somantano region at $11.95. Happily, both are still available in Vintages.

In terms of Spanish reds, some very exciting things are happening in Rioja, especially in the more reasonably priced echelon. Bodegas Beronia 2001 Rioja Tempranillo “Elaboracion Especial” (723643 - $16.95), for instance, continued its path breaking red, which is fermented in the barrel, with great success. Spilling over on to the general list, is a best buy: the surprisingly juicy, plummy, black cherry flavoured Bodegas Palacio 2003 Vina Portil (636936) at only $11.95 - a junior Crianza without excessive barrel aging!

Here at home, out of some 40 Canadian reds appearing in Vintages, the top rated was Magnotta 2001 Enotrium Gran Reserva VQA Niagara Peninsula (589705) at $43.95. This bold Amarone-styled Meritage blend is sold out at the winery, where there is wait list for the 2002. I did, however, track down 7 bottles, which are still available in Oshawa at the Taunton Road store - call 905-576-5223 first.

If I have one wish for the upcoming year, it is that the LCBO be more proactive and track down better Canadian wines. Of 170 presented in Vintages, 50 were icewines and only 29 came from BC. A perfect candidate would be Sumac Ridge 2000 Pinnacle, which was the best Canadian red I tasted this year and is still available at the winery.

Gazing at my crystal ball, I see a continuation of high quality and even better values coming from California. As for New Zealand, prices will still edge higher but I anticipate an improvement in Pinot Noir. German Riesling is ready to rock and roll, especially with all the delicious, well-priced 2003s, which will be arriving in the New Year. From Portugal, keep an eye out for a new era of high quality, not inexpensive Douro reds. From France one will have to be choosy: Langudoc-Rousillon will continue with its mixed bag of terrific high quality bargains side by side with vin ordinaire. Italy will be rolling out more internationally styled reds at relatively inexpensive prices, although one will have to be selective. Watch this spot for weekly 2005 updates.

Happy New Year
 

2001-2002-2003-2004 Tasting Note Database
Our tasting note database from December 31, 2000 to November 2004, covers every Vintages release product for the past 46 months. There are more than 8,000 notes in the database data. Just enter the name of the product, supplier name or CSPC number. Or you can search by type of wine, country of origin, even wine agent! Nothing could be easier. Also you can get information on the agent by clicking on the agent’s name, as well as current LCBO store inventory by clicking on "Check LCBO Availability", which will automatically tell you the number of bottles at LCBO as of last night.

To use our winefind.ca Tasting Notes Database: click here
 

** For All Visitors **
Vintages January 2005 Release

To see the complete list of upcoming
162 products click here (sorted by date of release). It includes the number of cases, which wines were presented by the LCBO, our agent ID for every product,
as well as, the
34
In Store D
iscoveries” for January.
You can also see it sorted by agent
click here  

Copyright Food & Beverage Testing Institute of Canada 2004
Prior written permission is required for any form of reproduction
 (electronic or other wise) and or quotation.
Contact Michael Vaughan at
mbv@total.net