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A
Bountiful 2004 Harvest at Vintages
Many outstanding-well priced selections
©
Michael Vaughan 2004
National Post
Weekly Wine & Spirits Columnist
Friday,
December 31, 2004
LIVE
WINE LINK
www.winefind.ca
(CLICK ON THE NAME - All
listings are automatically linked to the LCBO database)
If there is a product that interests you,
just click on the name below and you will instantaneously connected with
the LCBO database. The product will appear in blue and all you have to do
is click on the name again
and then the next screen will provide details along with the store search.
Just click on store search.
The number of bottles in each store is updated nightly. You should call
the store first to see if stock still remains (each store phone number is
listed).
While always
a bit suspicious of those lists of the year’s top picks, I am like a
moth, lured by the flame. It is impossible to pinpoint all the highlights
of the cornucopia offered at the LCBO - 2,405 items have appeared in
Vintages alone over the past year. While one might complain: “if you can’t buy it, who cares”, I have included some items
still available and/or upcoming best buys in bold type.
To
begin with, there is the year’s best bubbly. First, a high price alone
doesn’t make it a winner - many highly rated bubblies were surprisingly
reasonable. So while one might guess that Salon, Krug, Dom Pérignon or
Cristal would come out on top, it was my bargain-priced sleeper
recommended last February at only $59.95. Those of you who snagged some Piper-Heidsieck
Vintage 1995 Brut Champagne
(915199) were extremely lucky. The gorgeous, toasty nose with its buttery
shortbread notes is followed up by rich, lingering, ripe
apricot-lemon-lime purée flavours. Stunning!
Realizing
that not everyone jumps up and down for toasty, complex “goût Anglais”
styled Champagne; there are a wide variety of styles out there to suit
every palate. I shed no tears, however, at the recent demise of Pommery
Pop Extra Dry, which came in a 200 ml format ($14.25) with a straw.
This delisting was probably due to its rather dubious price-quality ratio
at $53.44 per full bottle. Numerous comparative blind tastings
demonstrated that better flavour could be had at a fraction of the price
– especially when one considers that Pop was not fermented in the bottle
and as a result had less pressure (measured in atmospheres) than its
siblings (in full bottles).
Moving
on, the most improved wines tasted in Vintages in 2004 came from Argentina
followed by Spain. From the former, I am pleased to say that Vintages
really hit the mark in selecting a steady stream of extremely well priced,
tasty reds. In fact, proportionately speaking, this year’s Vintages
release of 17 Argentine reds drew more best buy recommendations than any
other wine region! It all started with last January’s juicy Runtini
2002 Cabernet Sauvignon (723288) at $13.95 last, then February’s
wonderful Catena
Zapata 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon (467944) at $13.95 and so it
continued month after month.
Happily,
it continues still with January’s upcoming best buy highlight Bodega
Salentein 2002 Malbec (640854). This
great “in-store discovery” at a modest $16.95 should be hitting the
shelves next Friday, January 7th. This deep intense purple
coloured elixir has a fragrant, juicy, ripe Damson plum nose and is ready
to enjoy with delicious, juicy, ripe black cherry purée flavours and
lingering finish. Move quickly as only 50 cases are available.
While
I have always been impressed with Codorniu
methode Champenoise sparklers, many of Spain’s 91 Vintages releases over
the past 12 months were definitely on target. Starting
with whites, the solid, traditional styled, toasty Muga
2002 Rioja Blanco (958736)
kicked off the year at a modest $15.95. The stream of well-made whites
continued into the Fall, which saw the release of two Rioja-antithesis
best buys, including the delightful honeyed, peach-pear flavoured Bodega
Hermanos Lurton 2003 Rueda Blanco
(608901) at $13.95 and the floral, ripe melon flavoured 2003
Viñas Del Vero Blanco
(642082)
from Spain’s Somantano region at $11.95. Happily, both are still
available in Vintages.
In
terms of Spanish reds, some very exciting things are happening in Rioja,
especially in the more reasonably priced echelon. Bodegas
Beronia 2001 Rioja Tempranillo “Elaboracion Especial”
(723643 - $16.95), for instance, continued its path breaking red, which is
fermented in the barrel, with great success. Spilling over on to the
general list, is a best buy: the surprisingly juicy, plummy, black cherry
flavoured Bodegas
Palacio 2003 Vina Portil
(636936) at only $11.95 - a junior Crianza without excessive barrel aging!
Here
at home, out of some 40 Canadian reds appearing in Vintages, the top rated
was Magnotta
2001 Enotrium Gran Reserva VQA Niagara Peninsula
(589705) at $43.95. This bold Amarone-styled Meritage blend is sold out at
the winery, where there is wait list for the 2002. I did, however, track
down 7 bottles, which are still available in Oshawa at the Taunton Road
store - call 905-576-5223 first.
If
I have one wish for the upcoming year, it is that the LCBO be more
proactive and track down better Canadian wines. Of 170 presented in
Vintages, 50 were icewines and only 29 came from BC. A perfect candidate
would be Sumac Ridge
2000 Pinnacle,
which was the best Canadian red I tasted this year and is still available
at the winery.
Gazing
at my crystal ball, I see a continuation of high quality and even better
values coming from California. As for New Zealand, prices will still edge
higher but I anticipate an improvement in Pinot Noir. German Riesling is
ready to rock and roll, especially with all the delicious, well-priced
2003s, which will be arriving in the New Year. From Portugal, keep an eye
out for a new era of high quality, not inexpensive Douro reds. From France
one will have to be choosy: Langudoc-Rousillon will continue with its
mixed bag of terrific high quality bargains side by side with vin
ordinaire. Italy will be rolling out more internationally styled reds
at relatively inexpensive prices, although one will have to be selective.
Watch this spot for weekly 2005 updates.
Happy New Year
2001-2002-2003-2004
Tasting Note Database
Our
tasting note database from December 31, 2000 to November 2004, covers every
Vintages release product for the past 46 months. There are more than 8,000 notes in the database data. Just enter the name of the product,
supplier name or CSPC number. Or you can search by type of wine, country
of origin, even wine agent! Nothing could be easier. Also you can get information on the agent by clicking on the
agent’s name, as well as current LCBO store inventory by clicking on
"Check
LCBO Availability", which will automatically tell you the
number of bottles at LCBO as of last night.
To
use our winefind.ca Tasting
Notes Database: click
here
** For All Visitors **
Vintages
January 2005 Release
To see the complete list of upcoming
162 products
click
here
(sorted by date of release).
It
includes the number of cases, which wines were presented by the LCBO, our agent ID for every product,
as well
as, the 34
“In
Store
Discoveries”
for
January.
You can also see it sorted by
agent
click
here
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Copyright Food & Beverage Testing Institute of Canada
2004
Prior written permission is required for any form of reproduction
(electronic or other wise) and or quotation.
Contact Michael Vaughan at
mbv@total.net
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