www.winefind.ca
(All wines/spirits listed below are automatically linked to the lcbo database) 
If there is a product that interests you, just click on the name below and you will instantaneously connected with the LCBO database. The product will appear in blue and all you have to do is click on the name again and then the next screen will provide details along with the store search. Just click on store search. The number of bottles in each store is updated nightly. You should call the store first to see if stock still remains (each store phone number is listed).

It’s amazing that so many publications are able to magically pop out of their hat lists of the year’s best wines and wineries. This column was initially dedicated revealing the best in Canada. Having personally tasted almost one thousand Canadian wines, as well as judged in two of the largest competitions in the past year, I felt well qualified.

Upon reflection, however, it became increasingly self-evident that this wasn’t such an easy task after all. Most important, many good wineries never bother entering their wines into competitions. The reasons range from inertia to simple economics. An example of the latter might be Ann Sperling’s eminently tasty Malivoire 2003 Melon where demand has already outstripped the meager 50 case supply. Why bother going for an award when you don’t have wine to sell?

In some instances, it might be the fear of failure - where entering and not winning would be viewed as a very bad thing. Of course, a few wineries may not be confident of the judging panel or may simply dislike the venue. One of the major problems this year for the Canadian Wine Awards (CWA), for instance, was that many red wines were not bottled in time for submission.

Whatever the reason, it means than some of the potentially “best” wines never get awards or are even tasted. While I would love to give you a total guide, it is physically (and financially) impossible for me to taste everything produced in Canada. Ideally, all these wines should be tasted blind and side-by-side for true comparative purposes. Unfortunately, this isn’t possible when visiting wineries. And so, it is with some humility and apologies to the unmentioned deserving, that I present a bit of a round up of what has impressed me over the past 12 months.

With the upcoming New Year’s Eve celebrations at hand, here is my take on the best bubbly. The award goes to Henry of Pelham Cuvée Catherine (616441 in December 6^th Vintages release) at $27.95. This flavourful blend of 83% Pinot Noir and 17% Chardonnay has a classic, dusty, ripe lemon nose. On the palate it is very dry and well structured with excellent mousse - the gently toasty, ripe apricot flavours are balanced by bright acidity and fine length.

In terms of Chardonnay, I have just tasted the newly released Jackson-Triggs 2002 Delaine Vineyard Chardonnay (623454). Their previously reviewed CWA gold medal winning 2001 is still available in Vintages at $16.95. By comparison, this still youthful 2002 is perhaps a little brighter with lots of lemony, racy, Anjou pear flavours and fine vanilla notes on the finish. All Jackson-Triggs wines are available at their Wine Rack stores.

Ironically, the best Canadian Chardonnay tasted in the past twelve months is a repeat of last year’s CWA winner - the stellar, toasty, lime-inflected, ripe Anjou pear purée driven Lakeview Cellars 2000 Chardonnay Reserve Vinc Vineyard. A few cases are still available at the winery at $29.95 (only 250 were produced) and if you are searching for a classic, look no further.

In terms of all the other white varietals, the best white I tasted was not at a competition, nor at a winery, but rather in a restaurant with importer Pilar Randolph and winemaker Marcelo Morales Calderon from Spain’s Grandes Vinhos. The bottle of Daniel Lenko 2002 Viognier (913731), initially released at the winery at $34.95, was so stunningly delicious, I almost dropped the glass! Those wanting to try this showstopper will have to wait for Lenko’s “reserve release” on February 1 when an additional 50 cases will be set free at $49.95. Made exclusively from estate grown vines, it was cold fermented in stainless steel with no malolactic fermentation or lees stirring.

Moving on to reds, I recently met Romanian born winemaker Liubomir Popovici at last month’s Vintage’s Young Winemakers event. His Stoney Ridge 2002 Cabernet Franc Reserve Wismer Vineyard (995480) was bargain priced by Vintages at a mere $24.95 (regular $29.95 at the winery only at this moment). Only 271 cases were produced and it is one of the best efforts I have come across - not only refined and well structured, but with rich cassis and ripe cherry fruit flavours that dance on the tongue.

When it comes to top reds, this has not been Ontario’s finest hour. CWA Ontario red submissions were down and there were even fewer award winners. It’s not that great Ontario reds don’t exist, but simply that they had a tough time beating out this year’s juicy reds from BC’s Okanagan Valley. Of course, you can’t win if you don’t enter the race and that also has been a stumbling block. Trying to track down the BC award winners is difficult because so few are stocked by the LCBO, which explains why I have focused on Ontario’s best.

Fortunately, the 2003 Canadian Wine International Challenge (CIWC) produced a number of head turning winners, including best buy Southbrook 2001 Marechal Foch (540583 - $9.95 at winery), the only Ontario under $13 red to get gold. Unfortunately, the CIWC “best of show red” Thomas & Vaughan 2000 Meritage (992503) at $24.95 didn’t get an award at the CWA due to some oxidation in the single bottle sampled. On occasion a slightly off sample will go undetected leaving a fine wine without an award. On the positive side, stock is still currently available at the LCBO.

As for the Pinot Noir, despite this year’s 31 CWA entries, none scored higher than 89 points! It is a shame that the tasty Inniskillin 2000 Pinot Noir Reserve (586412), which was released in Vintages last April at $16.95, never appeared in any competition. I am quite sure that this 2000 (not 2001) would have ended up with an award or two!

With respect to icewines, it is here where Ontario usually excels and the 2002 vintage is no exception. Although not in the competition, we did a comparative 2002 blind tasting of some 20 sweeties. Coming out on top was the Jackson-Triggs 2002 Riesling Icewine Proprietors’ Grand Reserve (593970) at $ 62.95 with its lovely, fairly rich, harmonious, ripe pineapple and refreshing tangy melon flavours. Moving on to Vidal, it was Jackson-Triggs 2002 Vidal Icewine Proprietors’ Reserve (594010) at $45.95 that excelled. Creamy, very sweet and succulent, it carried the day with its honeyed stewed melon and lingering candied lemon peel flavours.

In the red department, the fruity Inniskillin 2002 Cabernet Franc Icewine (623728) ranked in first place and is available at the winery and/or Wine Rack stores for $89.95. Look for fairly rounded, honeyed, sweet yet refreshing, plummy, wild strawberry flavours.

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2001-2002-2003 Tasting Note Database

Our tasting note database from December 3 1, 2000 to November 2003, covers every Vintages release product for the past 34 months. There are more than 5,000 notes in the database data. Just enter the name of the product, supplier name or CSPC number. Or you can search by type of wine, country of origin, even wine agent! Nothing could be easier. Also you can get information on the agent by clicking on the agent’s name, as well as current LCBO store inventory by clicking on "Check LCBO Availability", which will automatically tell you the number of bottles at LCBO as of last night.

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Check out the
January 2004 InStore Discovery

Copyright Food & Beverage Testing Institute of Canada 2004
Prior written permission is required for any form of reproduction
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Contact Michael Vaughan at
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