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Highlights for Santa National Post Weekly Wine & Spirits Columnist Saturday, December 20, 2003 www.winefind.ca So
here it is, just a few more days before the big guy shows up. While some
are still in a shopping frenzy, what I most enjoy doing is digging into
that mass of still unread papers and magazines with an invigorating glass
of red. Starting
off with the newly arrived reds in this month’s Vintages, here are some
of best buys. First off the mark from British Colombia is Jackson-Triggs
Okanagan 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon Proprietors’ Reserve
(997361) at $14.95. Here is a well-priced red designed to give your turkey
a lift. The nose is rather spicy showing lots of black cherry fruit, which
carry over perfectly on the tangy palate. If
you searching for something with a tad more class, look no farther than Roger
de Jouennes 2000 Mercurey Château De Chamirey
(914416) $29.95. There is no question that good Burgundy at under $30 is
hard to find, so I was quite thrilled to uncover this one. The nose is
quite expressive with attractive ripe wild strawberry and cherry fruit. It
is very dry, crisp, bright and only on the light side of medium bodied on
the palate with bright dried red cherry flavours. It should work well with
the big bird but, amazingly enough; it could also go well with salmon.
Made exclusively from Pinot Noir grown in the southerly Côte Chalonnaise
village of Mercurey, these often-ignored wines (including some terrific
whites) can offer great value. For
fans, beware of Anthony Hanson’s just released book Burgundy a hefty 665-page Mitchell Beazley
$50 softcover that,
unfortunately, have not been sufficiently updated to deserve the price.
The material relating to clonal selection, temperature changes, the
ratings of producers, even the supposed updated vintage charts, etc. are
badly in need of revision. Those
looking for something with more character might check out the remarkable
well-structured Rocchetta
2000 Barbera d’Asti Superiore Sant’Emiliano
(909291). Now I know that some will complain the $29.95 is too much for a
Barbara drastic, but wait until you sink your nose into the glass and
inhale the spicy, chocolaty, ripe plum essence. It is even better on the
palate: complex, rich, spicy, sandalwood and plum essence with some
bright, Anjou pear notes followed up by a wonderful, lingering, rounded
finish. It
may not go with turkey, but my release highlight comes from the Fronses
region of Bordeaux. This 2000
Château La Vieille Cure
(947127) $39.95 is quite exquisite. It has
an extremely intense nose with lots of smoky limes, cassis and bittersweet
chocolate. It’s rich, intense, complex and yet harmonious on the palate
with mouthfilling, smoky, ripe plum purée and sweet chocolate. While it
is showing very well now, it could go into a hibernation mode for a year
or so. This well made blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet
Sauvignon came from 25-year-old vines and spent 18 months in French oak. Of
all the reds in the December Vintages release, I have two release best
buys. The first hails from South Australia’s Barossa Valley Yalumba
2000 Shiraz
(524926). At $19.95, it is a serious
contender for one of the best values of the year. The nose exudes spicy,
ripe black cherry fruit balanced by complex, ripe plum purée and smoky
sandalwood notes. Bright, dry but rounded the juicy ripe black cherry purée
flavours jump out of the glass. A
terrific follow-up comes from Lebanon’s Bekaa Valley. Don’t miss
trying the rich, smoky Domaine
Wardy 2001 Syrah (920157) at
$12.95. This hefty red with 14% alcohol will thrill Rhone fans. The nose
is surprisingly complex with very spicy, tarry, rather earthy, stewed plum
fruit. On the palate it is dry but well balanced with tangy, slightly
smoky, warm plum and sweet chocolate flavours lingering on the finish. In
terms of value, Domaine Wardy leaves some of the famed, very pricey
Chateau Musar releases far behind. Those
trying to find a truly inexpensive but tasty red with
their roast turkey should set their sights on a delicious fruit-driven.
From the LCBO General List you will not find better value than Sinnya
2002 Merlot
(459875) at a mere $9.70 from South Africa’s Robertson region. The nose
has lovely, faintly smoky, ripe black cherries with vanilla stick notes.
Delicious, dry and well balanced on the palate, the juicy ripe black
cherry flavours have a touch of sweet cranberry on the finish. It’s not
overly complex but wonderfully accessible and ready to enjoy. I
want to mention one of the special Vintage Sherries featured in the
Classics Catalogue. Unfortunately, the ridiculous review quoted in the
Catalogue is full of errors and has definitely damaged sales. After a
review like this, no one in his or her right mind would shell out $144 for
a bottle of Gonzalez
Byass 1978 Palo Cortado Oloroso Sherry (956987). To set the record straight, this golden amber coloured elixir has a powerful, complex and yet seductive nose. Look for bittersweet, honeyed, caramelized, crème brûlée and macaroon flavours that go on and
on. While it has 22% alcohol, the LCBO website erroneously lists the sugar code as 21 (210 grams
per litre), which would mean as much sugar as some icewines. In fact it was
only 8.8 grams meaning a sugar code of only 1 - thereby explaining why it doesn't leave a very sweet impression. In fact, I find it reminiscent of a very
fine, old Bual Madeira. It is more of a preprandial or after-dinner sipper,
although it would go well with an essence of beef consommé starter. Those
wanting to buy a bottle don’t have to wait; 4 stores in Toronto have
inventory (click
here to
see).
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2001-2002-2003 Tasting Note Database Our tasting note database from December 3 1, 2000 to November 2003, covers every Vintages release product for the past 34 months. There are more than 5,000 notes in the database data. Just enter the name of the product, supplier name or CSPC number. Or you can search by type of wine, country of origin, even wine agent! Nothing could be easier. Also you can get information on the agent by clicking on the agent’s name, as well as current LCBO store inventory by clicking on "Check LCBO Availability", which will automatically tell you the number of bottles at LCBO as of last night. To use our winefind.ca Tasting Notes Database: click here Subscribe to Vintage Assessments Today • Click Here
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2004 |