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Holiday Highlights for Santa

© Michael Vaughan 2003
National Post Weekly Wine & Spirits Columnist
 Saturday, December 20, 2003

www.winefind.ca
(All wines/spirits listed below are automatically linked to the lcbo database) 
If there is a product that interests you, just click on the name below and you will instantaneously connected with the LCBO database. The product will appear in blue and all you have to do is click on the name again and then the next screen will provide details along with the store search. Just click on store search. The number of bottles in each store is updated nightly. You should call the store first to see if stock still remains (each store phone number is listed).

So here it is, just a few more days before the big guy shows up. While some are still in a shopping frenzy, what I most enjoy doing is digging into that mass of still unread papers and magazines with an invigorating glass of red.

Starting off with the newly arrived reds in this month’s Vintages, here are some of best buys. First off the mark from British Colombia is Jackson-Triggs Okanagan 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon Proprietors’ Reserve (997361) at $14.95. Here is a well-priced red designed to give your turkey a lift. The nose is rather spicy showing lots of black cherry fruit, which carry over perfectly on the tangy palate.

If you searching for something with a tad more class, look no farther than Roger de Jouennes 2000 Mercurey Château De Chamirey (914416) $29.95. There is no question that good Burgundy at under $30 is hard to find, so I was quite thrilled to uncover this one. The nose is quite expressive with attractive ripe wild strawberry and cherry fruit. It is very dry, crisp, bright and only on the light side of medium bodied on the palate with bright dried red cherry flavours. It should work well with the big bird but, amazingly enough; it could also go well with salmon. Made exclusively from Pinot Noir grown in the southerly Côte Chalonnaise village of Mercurey, these often-ignored wines (including some terrific whites) can offer great value.

For fans, beware of Anthony Hanson’s just released book Burgundy a hefty 665-page Mitchell Beazley  $50 softcover that, unfortunately, have not been sufficiently updated to deserve the price. The material relating to clonal selection, temperature changes, the ratings of producers, even the supposed updated vintage charts, etc. are badly in need of revision.

Those looking for something with more character might check out the remarkable well-structured Rocchetta 2000 Barbera d’Asti Superiore Sant’Emiliano (909291). Now I know that some will complain the $29.95 is too much for a Barbara drastic, but wait until you sink your nose into the glass and inhale the spicy, chocolaty, ripe plum essence. It is even better on the palate: complex, rich, spicy, sandalwood and plum essence with some bright, Anjou pear notes followed up by a wonderful, lingering, rounded finish.

It may not go with turkey, but my release highlight comes from the Fronses region of Bordeaux. This 2000 Château La Vieille Cure (947127) $39.95 is quite exquisite. It has an extremely intense nose with lots of smoky limes, cassis and bittersweet chocolate. It’s rich, intense, complex and yet harmonious on the palate with mouthfilling, smoky, ripe plum purée and sweet chocolate. While it is showing very well now, it could go into a hibernation mode for a year or so. This well made blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon came from 25-year-old vines and spent 18 months in French oak.

Of all the reds in the December Vintages release, I have two release best buys. The first hails from South Australia’s Barossa Valley Yalumba 2000 Shiraz (524926). At $19.95, it is a serious contender for one of the best values of the year. The nose exudes spicy, ripe black cherry fruit balanced by complex, ripe plum purée and smoky sandalwood notes. Bright, dry but rounded the juicy ripe black cherry purée flavours jump out of the glass.

A terrific follow-up comes from Lebanon’s Bekaa Valley. Don’t miss trying the rich, smoky Domaine Wardy 2001 Syrah (920157) at $12.95. This hefty red with 14% alcohol will thrill Rhone fans. The nose is surprisingly complex with very spicy, tarry, rather earthy, stewed plum fruit. On the palate it is dry but well balanced with tangy, slightly smoky, warm plum and sweet chocolate flavours lingering on the finish. In terms of value, Domaine Wardy leaves some of the famed, very pricey Chateau Musar releases far behind.

Those trying to find a truly inexpensive but tasty red with their roast turkey should set their sights on a delicious fruit-driven. From the LCBO General List you will not find better value than Sinnya 2002 Merlot (459875) at a mere $9.70 from South Africa’s Robertson region. The nose has lovely, faintly smoky, ripe black cherries with vanilla stick notes. Delicious, dry and well balanced on the palate, the juicy ripe black cherry flavours have a touch of sweet cranberry on the finish. It’s not overly complex but wonderfully accessible and ready to enjoy.

I want to mention one of the special Vintage Sherries featured in the Classics Catalogue. Unfortunately, the ridiculous review quoted in the Catalogue is full of errors and has definitely damaged sales. After a review like this, no one in his or her right mind would shell out $144 for a bottle of Gonzalez Byass 1978 Palo Cortado Oloroso Sherry (956987).

To set the record straight, this golden amber coloured elixir has a powerful, complex and yet seductive nose. Look for bittersweet, honeyed, caramelized, crème brûlée and macaroon flavours that go on and on. While it has 22% alcohol, the LCBO website erroneously lists the sugar code as 21 (210 grams per litre), which would mean as much sugar as some icewines. In fact it was only 8.8 grams meaning a sugar code of only 1 - thereby explaining why it doesn't leave a very sweet impression. In fact, I find it reminiscent of a very fine, old Bual Madeira. It is more of a preprandial or after-dinner sipper, although it would go well with an essence of beef consommé starter. Those wanting to buy a bottle don’t have to wait; 4 stores in Toronto have inventory (click here to see).

Finally, those searching something less expensive or potent for Santa, might leave out a creamy glass of Just Desserts Original Chocolate Chip Cookie Cream Liquor (600445 general list) at $27.75. With only 12.5% alcohol it is going to be pretty safe for the older guy. And who knows, maybe he forgot his dentures and will be forever thankful.

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2001-2002-2003 Tasting Note Database

Our tasting note database from December 3 1, 2000 to November 2003, covers every Vintages release product for the past 34 months. There are more than 5,000 notes in the database data. Just enter the name of the product, supplier name or CSPC number. Or you can search by type of wine, country of origin, even wine agent! Nothing could be easier. Also you can get information on the agent by clicking on the agent’s name, as well as current LCBO store inventory by clicking on "Check LCBO Availability", which will automatically tell you the number of bottles at LCBO as of last night.

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** For All Visitors **
Vintages January 2004 Release

To see the complete list of upcoming products click here
(sorted by date of release). It includes the number of cases, which wines were presented by the LCBO, our agent ID for every product, as well as, special unannounced In Store Discoveries” for January.
You can also see it sorted by agent
click here  

Check out the
January 2004 InStore Discovery

Copyright Food & Beverage Testing Institute of Canada 2004
Prior written permission is required for any form of reproduction
 (electronic or other wise) and or quotation.
Contact Michael Vaughan at
mbv@total.net