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Reds
for your feathered friend
And what to serve the Big Guy in Red
©
Michael Vaughan 2002
National Post
Weekly Wine & Spirits Columnist
Saturday,
December 14, 2002
The
countdown has begun – eleven, ten, nine, … it is almost here. And
yet most of us are still struggling – will that be white or red with the
big feathered one. Ok, we might include
rosé – even if it is made by mixing a little red with your white.
Bottom
line, we need something that is fruity, perhaps jammy, but with good
refreshing acidity and not too much tannin. So you can forget about most
Bordeaux and Italian reds. From this
month’s Vintages release we have a
tasty, unpretentious, Lake Erie north shore effort that should do the
trick. Make way for Colio
Estate Vineyards 2000 Barrel Aged Gamay Noir at
$13.95. It is dry and bright with fairly spicy, ripe apple-plum flavours.
From
Australia and at less than a dollar more, the smoky, sweetish,
strawberry pie and rhubarb crumble nose of Elderton 2000 Tantalus
($14.50) is quite enticing. The very tangy, somewhat jammy,
strawberry-rhubarb pie a la mode flavours of this Shiraz/Cabernet
Sauvignon blend should be divine with the big bird. Fortunately, you
don’t have to rush because the LCBO purchased 1,000 cases!
For those
who celebrate the twelve days of Christmas, the Duboeuf
2000 Beaujolais Cru twelve-bottle case at
mere $179 might be the perfect answer. It features all ten cru along
with a bottle of everyday Beaujolais and Beaujolais Villages. I can hear
it now; does the Duboeuf Brouilly
or Saint-Amour
go best with that little roasted partridge-pear combo? Who knows, who
cares?
For many,
Pinot Noir is a good foil for turkey. The first problem is finding one,
which has enough fruit. The second is price. Good Pinot Noir is never
cheap. Recognizing these two shortcomings, I give a thumb’s up to the
rather charming but mature and accessible Kenwood
2000 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir at
$29.90 (or $15.95 per half bottle). The expressive nose shows very ripe,
slightly sweet, spicy, dried cherries. On the palate, look for rounded,
spicy, medium bodied, gently cedary, ripe plum cherry purée flavours.
Moving
on to the real thing from Burgundy, only two of the four new listings
make the cut. This first is a repeat order of the previously recommended
Domaine
Jacques Prieur/Antonin Rodet 1998 Beaune 1er Cru Champs Pimont
at $49.85. The flavour focus is ripe black cherry purée, which is
augmented on the nose with hints of wild raspberry. It is fairly soft
and mature on the palate with just enough acidity to maintain its poise
when married with turkey.
More
youthful and slightly more intense, the Domaine
Dujac 2000 Morey-St-Denis at $59.80 also
represents a fine choice with a ripe red cherry focus. The nose is spicy
and faintly cedary with some hints of rose petals and sandalwood. The
palate is fairly intense and still youthful but with harmonious, ripe
red cherry flavours and an excellent finish.
Of
the 24 new spirits/liqueurs in this month’s release, I have three
recommendations for the
Big Guy in red. If your Santa happens to
come from Greece, then make sure you don’t miss picking up a bottle of
Issidoros
Arvanitis Ouzo Plomari with its intense,
sweet but not cloying, essence of licorice flavours. Not only is this a
great breath cleanser, but it is also a very tasty, inexpensive ($19.95)
after-dinner digestif.
Two Italian
grappa are also on the hit list. The first Mazzetti
d’Altavilla Grappa Classica is almost
cheap ($25.55 for 500 ml) and certainly cheerful. The fruity, grassy,
sweet ripe pear eau de vie nose is followed up by bright, slightly
spicy, ripe dried pear flavours. The absence of any harsh, peppery notes
should bring a smile to your lips.
Ditto for
the pricier ($59.95 for 700 ml) gift tube packaged Po
Di Poli with its sweet, spicy, grassy,
candied pear nose with Kirsch eau-de-vie notes. It also excels on the
palate with just off dry, Kirsch and spicy lychee flavours.
For those
who don’t want tempt Santa with tipsy-inducing spirits; I have been
told that he likes a small glass of Port with his cookies. And what
better a deal than the surprisingly delicious Newman’s Celebrated Port
from the house of Martinez Gassiot. Make
sure you hide the bottle because once the creamy, sweet, slightly
raisiny, plum purée flavours hit Santa’s lips; he is going to want
more. Worse yet, if he sees that you only paid $14.45 a bottle you could
be labeled a cheapskate and he might not come back next year!
Indeed, if
you feel coerced into serving something more extravagant, then perhaps a
splash of the deep amber-coloured Grand Marnier Cuvée Du Cent
Cinquantenaire 1827-1977 ($199.90)
might be order.
The spicy,
sweet tangerine/Seville orange marmalade flavours along with subtle
hints of caramelized fine old Cognac go a long way.
Naturally,
if
I were subbing for Santa,
dollars for donuts, my choice would be Gonzalez
Byass Alfonso Oloroso Seco Sherry at only
$15.85. Its lovely, supple, sweet caramel and buttered toast nose is
matched by surprisingly dry, expansive, very slightly lemony,
caramel-driven flavours. It is a perfect pre-prandial and might be
served ever so slightly chilled.

A seasonal toast from Felipe Gonzalez-Gordon
of the family owned
Gonzalez Byass

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Vintages January 2002 Release
To see the complete list of upcoming products click
here
(sorted by date of release).
It
includes the number of cases, which wines were presented by the LCBO, our agent ID for every product, as well
as, special unannounced “In
Store
Discoveries”
for December.
You can also see it sorted by
agent click
here
|
Check out the
December 2002 InStore Discovery
|