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Reds for your feathered friend
And what to serve the Big Guy in Red

© Michael Vaughan 2002
National Post Weekly Wine & Spirits Columnist
 Saturday, December 14, 2002

The countdown has begun – eleven, ten, nine, … it is almost here. And yet most of us are still struggling – will that be white or red with the big feathered one. Ok, we might include rosé – even if it is made by mixing a little red with your white.

Bottom line, we need something that is fruity, perhaps jammy, but with good refreshing acidity and not too much tannin. So you can forget about most Bordeaux and Italian reds. From this month’s Vintages release we have a tasty, unpretentious, Lake Erie north shore effort that should do the trick. Make way for Colio Estate Vineyards 2000 Barrel Aged Gamay Noir at $13.95. It is dry and bright with fairly spicy, ripe apple-plum flavours.

From Australia and at less than a dollar more, the smoky, sweetish, strawberry pie and rhubarb crumble nose of Elderton 2000 Tantalus ($14.50) is quite enticing. The very tangy, somewhat jammy, strawberry-rhubarb pie a la mode flavours of this Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon blend should be divine with the big bird. Fortunately, you don’t have to rush because the LCBO purchased 1,000 cases!

For those who celebrate the twelve days of Christmas, the Duboeuf 2000 Beaujolais Cru twelve-bottle case at mere $179 might be the perfect answer. It features all ten cru along with a bottle of everyday Beaujolais and Beaujolais Villages. I can hear it now; does the Duboeuf Brouilly or Saint-Amour go best with that little roasted partridge-pear combo? Who knows, who cares?

For many, Pinot Noir is a good foil for turkey. The first problem is finding one, which has enough fruit. The second is price. Good Pinot Noir is never cheap. Recognizing these two shortcomings, I give a thumb’s up to the rather charming but mature and accessible Kenwood 2000 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir at $29.90 (or $15.95 per half bottle). The expressive nose shows very ripe, slightly sweet, spicy, dried cherries. On the palate, look for rounded, spicy, medium bodied, gently cedary, ripe plum cherry purée flavours.

Moving on to the real thing from Burgundy, only two of the four new listings make the cut. This first is a repeat order of the previously recommended Domaine Jacques Prieur/Antonin Rodet 1998 Beaune 1er Cru Champs Pimont at $49.85. The flavour focus is ripe black cherry purée, which is augmented on the nose with hints of wild raspberry. It is fairly soft and mature on the palate with just enough acidity to maintain its poise when married with turkey.

More youthful and slightly more intense, the Domaine Dujac 2000 Morey-St-Denis at $59.80 also represents a fine choice with a ripe red cherry focus. The nose is spicy and faintly cedary with some hints of rose petals and sandalwood. The palate is fairly intense and still youthful but with harmonious, ripe red cherry flavours and an excellent finish.

Of the 24 new spirits/liqueurs in this month’s release, I have three recommendations for the Big Guy in red. If your Santa happens to come from Greece, then make sure you don’t miss picking up a bottle of Issidoros Arvanitis Ouzo Plomari with its intense, sweet but not cloying, essence of licorice flavours. Not only is this a great breath cleanser, but it is also a very tasty, inexpensive ($19.95) after-dinner digestif.

Two Italian grappa are also on the hit list. The first Mazzetti d’Altavilla Grappa Classica is almost cheap ($25.55 for 500 ml) and certainly cheerful. The fruity, grassy, sweet ripe pear eau de vie nose is followed up by bright, slightly spicy, ripe dried pear flavours. The absence of any harsh, peppery notes should bring a smile to your lips.

Ditto for the pricier ($59.95 for 700 ml) gift tube packaged Po Di Poli with its sweet, spicy, grassy, candied pear nose with Kirsch eau-de-vie notes. It also excels on the palate with just off dry, Kirsch and spicy lychee flavours.

For those who don’t want tempt Santa with tipsy-inducing spirits; I have been told that he likes a small glass of Port with his cookies. And what better a deal than the surprisingly delicious Newman’s Celebrated Port from the house of Martinez Gassiot. Make sure you hide the bottle because once the creamy, sweet, slightly raisiny, plum purée flavours hit Santa’s lips; he is going to want more. Worse yet, if he sees that you only paid $14.45 a bottle you could be labeled a cheapskate and he might not come back next year!

Indeed, if you feel coerced into serving something more extravagant, then perhaps a splash of the deep amber-coloured Grand Marnier Cuvée Du Cent Cinquantenaire 1827-1977 ($199.90) might be order.

The spicy, sweet tangerine/Seville orange marmalade flavours along with subtle hints of caramelized fine old Cognac go a long way.

Naturally, if I were subbing for Santa, dollars for donuts, my choice would be Gonzalez Byass Alfonso Oloroso Seco Sherry at only $15.85. Its lovely, supple, sweet caramel and buttered toast nose is matched by surprisingly dry, expansive, very slightly lemony, caramel-driven flavours. It is a perfect pre-prandial and might be served ever so slightly chilled.




A seasonal toast from Felipe Gonzalez-Gordon
of the family owned Gonzalez Byass


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Vintages January 2002 Release
To see the complete list of upcoming products click here
(sorted by date of release). It includes the number of cases, which wines were presented by the LCBO, our agent ID for every product, as well as, special unannounced In Store Discoveries” for December.
You can also see it sorted by agent
click here  

 

Check out the
December 2002 InStore Discovery

 

Copyright Food & Beverage Testing Institute of Canada 2004
Prior written permission is required for any form of reproduction
 (electronic or other wise) and or quotation.
Contact Michael Vaughan at
mbv@total.net