This month’s Vintages release catalogue has whopping 180 items with lots fine buys to put a special spin on the holidays. Starting with Chardonnay, the world’s most popular grape, there are 17 selections in this month’s release and they vary from mediocre to outstanding, from bargains to simply bad value.

Kicking things off is the gently toasty, lively, Anjou pear flavoured Henry of Pelham 2002 Barrel Fermented Chardonnay (268342) at $18.95 is finally on the LCBO shelves (click here to see previous feature). Unfortunately, you won’t be able to get that celebratory “pop” when opening this one – it’s Canada’s first VQA-caliber release with a screw cap closure!

For fans of classic Burgundy, only the Domaine Roger Luquet 2001 Pouilly-Fuissé (907931) at $28.95 might be worthy of a detour. The nose is quite intense with traditional, nutty, stewed lemon fruit. It’s very dry and well structured on the palate with, buttery almond-tinged, lemon-lime flavours. Great with seafood, but it is not a style that will appeal to everyone.

Incidentally, Roger Luquet has a great reputation and anyone with a keen interest in French wine would be well advised to invest in a copy of the just-released Hachette Guide to French Wines 2004 (ISBN 1 84000 908 X). Weighing in with over a thousand pages, this chunky compendium is crammed full of very specific useful buying information (over 9,000 wine recommendations). While the type is small, the bright white pages make things tolerable. The Chapters-Indigo website offer of a sizable 30% discount dropping the cost from $50 to $35 (click here to see).

Ironically if you are looking for a big Burgundy hit, you might head south of the border. E. & J. Gallo 1999 Northern Sonoma Estate Chardonnay 1999 (334961) has produced a French-styled blockbuster, which may well be the best to date at $64.95. Look for a complex, buttered toast and lime purée driven nose. It is rich but well balanced with buttered toast, ripe pear and apricot flavours, which linger on the palate. Too big to go with fish, it would be better with poultry or even white meats.

From Australia’s Hunter Valley in New South Wales, Rosemount Estate 2001 Roxburgh Chardonnay (324780) at $44.95 gives Gallo a run for the money. The nose here is complex, faintly smoky and spicy with evergreen, caramel and baked ripe lemon notes. Solid and dry but not austere, the smoky, lime purée flavours show fine length.

Today’s release “best buy” at only $14.95 comes from South Africa’s Franschhoek region. Chamonix 2001 Chardonnay (906818) has that slightly smoky, caramel, ripe lemon and lime purée nose that is usually associated with wines costing twice the price. Crisp, dry and bright on the palate, the spicy, dried ripe Anjou pear and lime purée flavours have a hint of tart lemon peel and cedar on the lingering finish.

Changing gears, we have a very tasty, unoaked effort from Austria’s Kamptal, which would be another good foil for seafood. Allram 2002 Grüner Veltliner (907097) at $19.95. This Strasser Gaisberg vineyard effort has a deep yellow colour. Although classified as a “trocken’ (meaning dry), it has an opulent, mature, honeyed lemon nose. On the palate it is fairly rich and rounded with ripe red apple flavours with a solid, lingering finish.

Inching up the scale in terms of perceived sweetness comes a fine effort from Alsace. Some may feel that Zind-Humbrecht 2001 Gewurztraminer (918078) at $39.95 is perhaps a bit over the top. The nose of this Wintzemheim Grand Cru is very intense with spicy lychee, apricot jam and tangerine notes, which boldly march forth on the palate. Rich and viscous, the just off dry, rounded, honeyed-hazelnut-lychee flavours are perfect by the glass and might accompany a holiday terrine of foie gras.

Of all the wines in this release, it is Germany that really shines with five of the six selections being worthy of a detour. Naturally, the best isn’t inexpensive. Selbach-Oster 2001 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese (905463) at $29.95 is a perfect sipper with a modest 8.5% alcohol. The nose is extremely attractive featuring honey, sweet tangerine and Seville orange marmalade. The well-balanced, gently sweet, ripe melon flavours have that classy, lingering, schisty, finish.

Bargain hunters should not miss the ready-to-drink, crowd pleasing Studert-Prüm 1999 Maximiner Riesling Kabinett (912741) at $14.95. The nose is quite complex and mineral-directed with fresh, ripe, red apple-lime fruit. On the palate it is gently sweet and light bodied with lively, honeyed, fresh, ripe apple-melon flavours. It is amazing to think that the Studert family has been growing vines in the Mosel since 1581 and twelve generations later are turning out a modest 3,500 cases annually.

Those wanting more details on specific vineyards and/or producers might purchase the new soft cover The Wines of Germany by Stephen Brook (ISBN 1 84000 791 5). You have to be a fan because it is a tad dry and somewhat short of illustrations/maps. Indeed, I couldn’t find a single label in the entire 445 pages. It lists at $39.95 and is available for $27.96 on the Chapters-Indigo website (click here to see).

Those of you who were frustrated by not being able to track down Tom Stevenson’s World Encyclopedia Of Champagne & Sparkling Wine in Toronto can order one from directly from the publisher (Wine Appreciation Guild) at their toll free number 1-800-231-9463.