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Long Weekend Finds
Move over Black Tower, there’s a “Bend in the River”

© Michael Vaughan 2003
National Post Weekly Wine & Spirits Columnist
 Saturday, August 30, 2003

winefind.ca
If you want to buy a wine, just click on the wine name below and you will instantaneously connected with the LCBO database. The wine name will appear in blue and all you have to do is click on the name again and then the next screen will provide details along with the store search. Just click on the search. The number of bottles in each store is updated nightly. You should call the store first to see if stock still remains (each store phone number is provided).

I need a lift, something to recharge the batteries that were worn down during our 40+ hour power outage. Thankfully the refrigerator is back in order, so I grab a bottle of my best buy Spanish bubbly Codorniu Brut Clasico (503490). At a modest $10.75, this dry, crisp, refresher represents unsurpassable value. This bone fide méthode Champenoise was the only sparkler to win a gold medal at the 2003 Canadian International Wine Challenge (CIWC). It is widely available on the LCBO general list and is a perfect Champagne substitute for your Kir Royale. TO SEE THE FULL LIST OF AWARD WINNERS click here.

Talking about the LCBO general list, I am always amazed that many are not aware of the great bargains just sitting on the shelves. In terms of great terrific BBQ reds, for instance, the CIWC “Best Value Red” 2001 Bellingham Coastal Shiraz (554360) at $12.65 is definitely worth a detour. When it comes down to discovering South African value, I am puzzled why Vintages fails to bring some new buys to its customer’s attention (referred to as “soft” releases).

Fortunately, some Ontario agents have taken the initiative to get these wines reviewed. Wine World Imports , for instance, presented two recently released “invisible” Vintages items for appraisal. It was thumbs up for Wildekrans 2002 Semillon Walker Bay (970293) at only $9.95. The nose shows fresh honeyed tangerine citrus with some pineapple notes and just a hint of oak. The dry, smooth and yet tangy, tangelo-lemon flavours would be perfect with spicy Thai cuisine. Production was limited to seven new French barrels. Meanwhile, Beaumont 2001 Pinotage Walker Bay (963116) at $17.95 is another good choice for the BBQ. This deep crimson coloured effort has a smoky plum nose and slightly spicy, ripe plum and red cherry fruit on the palate. 

I applaud the efforts of Toronto restaurants in selling these undiscovered gems. Unfortunately, many still charge overly hefty mark ups when it comes to by-the-glass portions. A recent visit to Bouchon Bistro on Wellington to taste some South African wines typifies this situation. It featured one of my Vintages best buy reds – the smoky-sandalwood Delheim 2001 Pinotage (14253), still available at a most reasonable $18.50 per bottle or 74 cents an ounce. At Bouchon, a two-ounce serving cost $5.50 - almost a four-fold increase! Throw in taxes, before tips, and that $1.48 cost is inflated to $6.48!

Wouldn’t it be much more sensible to provide reasonably priced tasting samples at a lower mark-up, thereby encouraging customers to order more? And given the huge restaurant dining tax revenues flowing into provincial coffers, why doesn’t  the liquor board offer restaurants discounted wholesale pricing thereby encouraging business?

I recently received a call from wine fan Martin Burns about one of those LTOs (Limited Time Offers) 2001 The Bend In The River Riesling (501080) at $9.95. Instead of calling first, I visited two stores only to discover that the LCBO cupboard was bare.

I finally found it and what a visual surprise. There is something about the shape of a bottle that creates an impression. I remember the first time I saw Kendermann Black Tower, which came in a heavy “Romanesque” earthenware bottle. At the time, it created a stampede. It now comes in a similarly shaped, much lighter, black glass bottle and is still Germany’s number one white export.

I bring this up because The Bend in the River is the antithesis of the Black Tower bottle - a see-through, pitcher-shaped, frosted clear glass bottle with nary a German expression in sight. It seems that Kendermann’s owner, Carl Reh has decided to try and reinvent his earlier success, this time with an internationally-styled white. In fact, it looks like it could have come from anywhere and is for the younger generations who don’t know or care about German wine tradition. 

When originally launched in 1998, it was a Pfalz blend of 60% Rivaner and 40% Riesling with 11.5% alcohol. Today, it is 100% Riesling with only 10.5%. To be honest, this Rheinhessen quaffer makes perfect sense for summertime drinking. The nose shows some grapefruit and honey. Ditto for the palate, which is very slightly sweet but with enough acidity so that it is still “refreshingly dry” (as the label states) finishing up with some tropical, tangerine notes. Ironically the wine was better after a night in the fridge when, all of a sudden, refreshing yellow grapefruit flavours took center stage!

Concerned about next Saturday’s September Vintages release? Those residing out of town will have to get their orders into the Vintages by 11am this Tuesday, September 2nd. To help readers, I have posted the full list of all 166 September Vintages products on my website (click here to see the list sorted by release date – or – click here to see the combined list sorted by agent) along with my Must Buy highlight: Domaine des Jougla 2000 “Cuvée Tradition” (993014) at $15.95. The Saint-Chinian from the Midi region of France has been a consistent winner. There are 150 cases and you should not miss trying to nail down a few bottles of this delicious blend of 40% Grenache, 40% Mourvèdre and 20% Syrah. Deep intense purple colour. A great nose which shows lots of spicy fruit and peat. Almost raisiny and smoky with stewed plum-prune notes. Rich, rounded and mouthfilling with an abundance of drink-me-now Syrah fruit. Reminiscent of a fine Rhone Cornas. The equally delicious 1999 was shipped March 9, 2002 ($15.30) had a different CSPC 711192.

Check out our winefind.ca tasting notes database

Our tasting note database goes back to January 1, 2001 and covers every Vintages release product for the past 31 months. There are approximately 5,000 notes in the database data. Just enter the name of the product, supplier name or CSPC number. Or you can search by type of wine, country of origin, even wine agent! Nothing could be easier. When you get your search results (starting with the most recent release), click on the item name and you will instantaneously connected to the FBTI Vintage Assessments database. You will see our tasting note along with the name of the agent. You can get information on the agent by clicking on the agent’s name. Also, you can check LCBO store inventory by clicking on Check LCBO Availability. It will automatically take you to the item you want to search.

To use our winefind.ca Tasting Notes Database: click here

   

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Vintages September 2003 Release
To see the complete list of upcoming products click here
(sorted by date of release). It includes the number of cases, which wines were presented by the LCBO, our agent ID for every product, as well as, special unannounced In Store Discoveries” for September.
You can also see it sorted by agent
click here  

Check out the
September 2003 InStore Discovery

Copyright Food & Beverage Testing Institute of Canada 2004
Prior written permission is required for any form of reproduction
 (electronic or other wise) and or quotation.
Contact Michael Vaughan at
mbv@total.net