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Fall Classics just around the corner
Why wait there are great buys today,
especially if you like fresh meadow muffins

© Michael Vaughan 2002
National Post Weekly Wine & Spirits Columnist
 Saturday, August 24, 2002

I could feel the cooler autumnal air almost nipping at my ear one rainy night earlier this week. While it felt great to get rid of the steamy sullen air than has been draped over the city, I was a little desolé that summer is nearing its end.

On the positive side, there is always a tidal wave of wine events to contend with. And so to make sure you don’t miss out here are a couple of highlights. Perhaps the hottest ticket in town is the Vintages Autumn 2002 Classics tasting on Monday, September 9th from 6:30 to 9:00 p.m. at Toronto’s Le Royal Méridien King Edward. All 52-featured wines will be available for ordering on-site (which some readers feel is unfair for those who can’t attend). Tickets are $95.00 per person - call (416) 365-5767 or toll-free 1-800-266-4764. For the list of wines to be tasted Click Here.  For the entire 113-page Classics Catalogue Click Here.

The focus of this release is Ontario and a strapping 19 wines have been listed and will be tasted! Now while this news might delight some and possibly disappoint others, it certainly is time that at Canada’s best made their way into the Classics. Pickings have definitely been pretty slim over the past few years.

Talking about slim, it certainly isn’t the French who weigh in with 155 listings or 28% of the 560 items on parade. Italy is second with 101 selections, while California is third with 40. Pity Germany, Hungary, South Africa and Oregon who only come up with a deuce apiece. Well at least that’s twice as much as the western Canada – B.C. only gets one listing.

Politics aside, I would be hard pressed to suggest that every wine here is a winner. Nevertheless, there will certainly be a lot of action around Table 4 where bottles of Penfolds 1997 Grange (not 1996 as erroneously listed in the Catalogue) at $250 a pop will be tasted. The event should be well worth the $95 cost of entry.

Of course, there still are plenty of decent Classics buys available, which can be ordered right this minute from the Classics. Let me recommend two terrific robust red holdovers, which will also be appearing in the new Catalogue.

Great Amarone has been as scarce as hen’s teeth and so I am pleased that some inventory of this traditionally styled effort is still around. With 15.5% alcohol, Michele Catellani 1997 Campo Casalin Amarone della Valpolicella Classico (cspc 946558) at only $49 is definitely worth a detour. The nose exudes a smoky, ripe prune and crème brulee notes. It virtually slides on the palate with lovely, sweetish, caramelized plum flavours that linger beautifully with hints of marzipan.

The 1,700-hectare region of Faugères is located in the schisty foothills of the Cévennes in the Languedoc region. It is here where we discover a well-priced Syrah made from 20-year-old vines that will be sheer perfection with BBQ steak. Michel Louison 1999 Faugères Chateau Des Estanilles (cspc 967026) sells for $32. It has a deep intense purple colour. The complex, baked ripe plum, earthy, “meadow muffin” nose typifies traditional Syrah at its best. The extremely mouth filling, rich but harmonious, chocolaty, spicy, cassis flavours make it an instant ready-to-drink winner.

Moving on, this week’s August Vintages release best buy is an outstanding Madeira. Henriques & Henriques 10 Year Old Sercial is something very special indeed. It was released three weeks ago but, as is often the case with small lots (only 55 cases), it was not put out for review. The price is a reasonable $34.95. This golden amber coloured elixir is bound to impress. The nose is truly lovely with gently honeyed, faintly smoky, crème brûlée along with tangy, candied tangerine peel notes. On the palate it is creamy and sweet but still refreshing with candied tangerine, kumquat and caramel flavours that show excellent persistence. This International Wine Challenge Gold Medal winner might well be served very slightly chilled as a summer aperitif, perhaps with hors d’oeuvres. A little will go a long way, but then you may want to sip it every night.

Finally, as a follow up to last week’s ladybug column, I have good news and bad news – especially for my friends who live in Ottawa and east of Kingston. First, the bad news is that the tainted 2001 Chard was actually not taken off the shelves (except by unknowing customers). In fact it is just that the winery isn’t shipping any more skids of it to the LCBO. The good news is that I discovered that there is not a bottle to be found east of Kingston – Ottawa has been saved!

The reason is that the LCBO in its infinite wisdom did not place any inventory in the warehouse servicing this region. Unfortunately, it means that none of the 17 craft wines will be available in any of the Ottawa stores. Ergo, my best buy at $9.95, Lakeview 2000 Beamsville Bench Chardonnay will not be available either. LCBO head office has forbidden store managers from ordering this wine for you! Time to call the winery at 905-562-5685 and order the magnum 1.5 litre size for an incredible price of only $14.95.

Unfortunately, the biggest September event is the 60-seat Château Cheval Blanc tasting dinner with the Managing Director, Pierre Lurton of Ginestet is now sold out.  Six vintages of Château Cheval Blanc are featured along with three vintages of their Le Petit Cheval. Tickets were $375.00.

 

Copyright Food & Beverage Testing Institute of Canada 2004
Prior written permission is required for any form of reproduction
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Contact Michael Vaughan at
mbv@total.net