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Raising Cane
A Little Rum with your Reggae?

© Michael Vaughan 2003
National Post Weekly Wine & Spirits Columnist
 Saturday, August 2, 2003

Launch of winefind.ca
The system is foolproof and easy. If there is a wine that interests you,
just click on the name and you will instantaneously connected with the LCBO database telling you if the wine is in the LCBO system. If it is, it will appear in blue and all you have to do is click on the name again and then the next screen will provide details on the wine along with a store search. While the number of bottles in each store is updated every night, you should call the store first to see if stock still remains (each store phone number is also provided). It is that simple!
Note that all the items recommended below are connected with the LCBO database – just click on the name!

“The demon rum made me do it!” Now I don’t know if these were his exact words, but with shades of “yo-ho-ho” in the background, I was impressed to discover that one enterprising Stones fan actually tried to bury his booty of booze in the concert area prior to last Wednesday’s show. I can see it now – a man armed with a case of his favourite, flashlight and shovel. Unfortunately, his midnight foray was in vain - he was intercepted by security forces. This property, after all, was under the stewardship of National Defense and how would it look if a booze burier incursion went undetected?

While the brands he was trying to bury are unknown, I hope he’s reading this column if he happens to love rum. For me, today marks the last great holiday weekend of summer. I know we still have Labour Day, but it’s almost two and one-half months after our summer solstices. And with all the “hot-hot-hot” local events, folks either flock to, or escape from, Toronto.

As a Caribana fan, I planning to stay put and will be stocking up on rum to provide some “cool-cool-cool” while enjoying the local heat. My favourite comes from the world capital of reggae, Jamaica, where I first discovered the joys of drinking J. Wray & Nephew “neat” from a local braided bartender.

Prior to that, I was pretty much a “rum and Coca-Cola” kind of guy. It was a father-son thing. It was Andrew Sisters song that capped the hit parade in the 1940’s - long before Rasta, ganja and reggae became part of the Canadian consciousness - that converted my dad. To this day, this is his summer drink.

Given the huge number of rums I have encountered over the years, I decided to check out the LCBO database. I opened my windfind.ca bookmark, typed in “rum” and found an astounding 91 general list items. I gulped at the prospect of having to taste this avalanche of rums. Fortunately, due to the great diversity of formats (some single brands account for as many as 6 listings), the number fell to a few dozen, most of which I had already tasted. So I threw in the towel, opting for my favourites from prior comparative blind tastings.

While “the best rum” may well be a matter of personal taste, my historical choice has been Appleton Estate “Extra” Jamaican Rum (105742 - $33.00). While this premium gold (or amber) rum has 43% alcohol, it is a s smooth as silk with an abundance of fine, warm, honeyed caramel and vanilla flavours. I take it neat; or on the rocks when it gets hot. I wouldn’t do this with some of the less expensive bar rums out there, which vary from being somewhat rough and peppery to devoid of character.

I am reluctant to admit that, for my dad, less-expensive rum would hit the mark. That’s because he takes it with Coke (one part rum to two parts Coke) on the rocks with a squeeze of lime. Like many others, he is a devout fan of the Cuban-born Bacardi Gold, which moved to Puerto Rico after Fidel Castro came to power. As a treat he would occasionally “import” locally unavailable high proof stuff from the States because, as he confides with a shy grin, “I didn’t have to use as much.”

I was left to dally with the more expensive imports. As a gold man, I was surprised to discover that almost one out of every two bottles sold in Canada is white. In general, these easier to sip, basically less flavourful elixirs go with anything. Indeed, in the past decade I have only purchased a single white rum - the only one to be described as “Deluxe” in the LCBO Price Book. Hang on to your hats, Wray & Nephew White Overproof Rum (326223 - $32.65) has a special way of saying hello. This clear column-stilled white rum has a whopping 63% alcohol and is the kind of spirit that separates the men from the boys. It bristles with its pungent, peppery, cane sugar, grassy, grappa-like flavours. I like it neat, although most mortals prefer it cut with fresh tropical fruit juice and lots of ice.

Of course, almost everyone from the islands prefers gold. It is this segment (with 30% of the market) that is definitely on a roll. Appleton Estate V/X Rum (177808 - $21.95), Canada’s best selling imported rum, would be my mixer of choice with Coca-Cola. Of course, this issue is hotly debated. Some argue that that a dark rum 1:4 ratio is best, while “Cuba Libra” fans extol the virtues of a white rum 1:3 ratio. Then there is the issue of where the rum comes from. Andres Sisters’ song only mentions Trinidad – the home of Angostura.

Contrary to the belief that rum is for heathens, well-made, barrel-aged rum can be as refined and delicious as a fine Cognac. To celebrate this incredible diversity, Andy Barker, President and CEO of the Nova Scotia Liquor Commission organized Canada’s first premium rum festival last May. It featured the wares of some thirty producers and was a smash success – both for attendees and local cab companies.

Without question, the finest rum at the LCBO is the Appleton Estate 21-Year Old Jamaican Rum  (452938 - $89.95). The youngest rum here is 21-years-old! A maximum of 6,000 cases of 6 are made in any year, but not in every year! To maintain consistency, Wray & Nephew master blender Joy Spence selects a series of rare rums, which are blended and placed in oaken vats for over two years to allowing them to marry. The result is silky and yet flavourful. If you travel south of the border, you would find that it fetches $80+ US in some retail stores!

Here are the dance-steps and words for “Rum and Coca-Cola.” Happy holiday.


Vintages Bin-End Sale
(sale starts on Saturday, August 23, 2003)
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Check out our winefind.ca tasting notes database

Our tasting note database goes back to January 1, 2001 and covers every Vintages release product for the past 31 months. There are approximately 5,000 notes in the database data. Just enter the name of the product, supplier name or CSPC number. Or you can search by type of wine, country of origin, even wine agent! Nothing could be easier. When you get your search results (starting with the most recent release), click on the item name and you will instantaneously connected to the FBTI Vintage Assessments database. You will see our tasting note along with the name of the agent. You can get information on the agent by clicking on the agent’s name. Also, you can check LCBO store inventory by clicking on Check LCBO Availability. It will automatically take you to the item you want to search.

To use our winefind.ca Tasting Notes Database: click here

   

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Vintages August 2003 Release
To see the complete list of upcoming products click here
(sorted by date of release). It includes the number of cases, which wines were presented by the LCBO, our agent ID for every product, as well as, special unannounced In Store Discoveries” for August.
You can also see it sorted by agent
click here  

Check out the
August 2003 InStore Discovery

Copyright Food & Beverage Testing Institute of Canada 2004
Prior written permission is required for any form of reproduction
 (electronic or other wise) and or quotation.
Contact Michael Vaughan at
mbv@total.net