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Putting
a little "hop" into your Easter brunch
©
Michael Vaughan 2006
National Post
Weekly Wine & Spirits Columnist
Saturday,
April 15, 2006
LIVE
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It's Easter and Spring is in the air. Here is your wine guide for those
planning an Easter brunch with family and friends. Kicking things off are
two recommended bubblies, which definitely will give you and your guests a
lift. The first is a recent Vintages release. The very well priced Conde
de Caralt Brut Cava (664623) at only $12.95 will
please any discerning fan of the classic, dry, Spanish "brut"
style. Look for an attractive, ripe lemon-apple nose followed up by
lively, bright, medium-light bodied, lemon-melon flavours with fine
effervescence.
Those searching for something with a bit more depth and flavour, should
try the bargain-priced Georges
Gardet Cuvée Saint Flavy Brut Champagne
(924654) in Vintages at $37.95. It firm, dry and quite well structured
with attractive, ripe, lemon-melon flavours followed up by a lingering,
very slightly toasty finish.
White wines are always a Springtime hit, especially with fresh seasonal
asparagus. A definite hit would be Domaine
des Salices 2004 Viognier (487272) at $12.95.
Produced by brothers Jacques et François Lurton, this very tasty French
southern Vin de Pays d'Oc comes with a screwcap closure. Look for very
attractive, slightly spicy, honeyed, floral, melon aromas and a crisp,
dry, tangy, ripe lemon-melon flavours with a spicy, lychee-tinged finish.
It is the kind of whiter that will go with almost anything.
While Chenin Blanc is probably best known for producing somewhat bland
California whites, when it shines - it shines. My release highlight white
is Morgenhof
2004 Chenin Blanc (978544) at $13.95 from South
Africa. This class act and tremendous value has a lovely, complex, gently
nutty, ripe lemon nose and gently honeyed, very well structured, dry but
harmonious, lemon-melon flavours with great length. Perfect with seafood
or poultry.
More idiosyncratic is Disznókó
2004 Tokaji Dry Furmint (681544) at $12.95,
which hails from Hungary and is made with Furmint grapes grown in the
Tokaji region. The nose is very floral with lots of spice and gently
honeyed, fresh melon-apple aromas. On the palate it is crisp and
medium-light bodied with faintly sweetish, very spicy, ripe melon flavours
with a lingering finish. A winner, especially if some spicy Indian cuisine
is on your menu.
Chardonnay always seems to be a fairly safe bet. From Ontario at only
$18.95, we have the toasty, maturing Jackson
Triggs 2002 Proprietors' Grand Reserve Chardonnay
(593996). This is a fairly big white with complex, gently spicy,
smoke-tinged, ripe lemon-melon flavours and hints of caramel and French
vanilla ice cream on the finish. A bit too much for seafood, it would be
best with poultry.
Continuing in the toasty vernacular is the Vintages essential R.H.
Phillips 2004 Toasted Head Chardonnay (594341)
at $19.95 price. It is a bit fresher and leans more in a pear puree
direction with intense, gently juicy, ripe lemon flavours plus a
lingering, toasty finish. You can make some bunny happy by serving it with
a tasty veal, not rabbit, terrine.
Those wanting something brighter might try the surprisingly juicy Ironstone
2004 Sierra Foothills Chardonnay (355776) at
$16.95. It has less oak and perhaps greater versatility with
ready-to-drink, very tangy, fresh, ripe melon flavours.
Moving on to reds, I have shied away from the big blockbusters and
looked for easy-to-drink reds that will accompany traditional Easter
dishes. For instance, here is a rather nice, reasonably-priced,
ready-to-drink Pinot Noir from Burgundy that pretty much hits the spot. Vincent
Girardin 2003 Bourgogne Cuvée St-Vincent
(727966) at only $19.95 shows well-balanced, ripe plum and red cherry
flavours. This perfect crowd-pleasing Easter red would marry well with ham
or poultry.
From Spain, another best buy would be Bodegas
Luzon 2004 Finca Luzon Tinto (672915) at $10.95.
This blend of Monastrell (Mourvèdre) and Syrah has a very deep intense
purple colour and yet shows good accessability. The plummy, ripe raspberry
nose is followed up by harmonious, dry, juicy, ripe cherry flavours.
My release favourite at $19.95 is big and bold. I loved the complex,
gently smoky, intense, juicy, plummy-black cherry flavours of Brampton
2004 Shiraz 2004 (674523) at $19.95, which comes
from South Africa's Coastal Region and is produced by the well-known
Rustenberg winery. This mouthfilling red is a blend of Shiraz with 8%
Mourvedre and 2% Viognier, which is aged for 16 months in small French
oak. If your looking for something that will put that extra hop in your
gait, then this is it.
Finally, while Easter isn't a time of year that you pass the Port, I
would be remiss if I didn't recommend Ramos-Pinto
1998 Late Bottled Vintage Port (951335) an
excellent buy at $19.95. Look for well structured, spicy, sweet, plummy,
juicy cherry flavours with a lingering, chocolate-vanilla-plum finish. It
is so good, that you may end up not passing the bottle at all!
National Post readers wishing to receive the current April 2006 Vintage Assessments newsletter (covering the Vintages releases for today & for the April 1st and 29th releases - including exclusive current ISD reviews) as well as the April 15th Vintages Shopping List can have it e-mailed today and receive a $20 discount - click here.
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2006
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