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The German Revival
Riesling gaining ground on Chardonnay
© Michael Vaughan 2002
National Post • Saturday, April 13, 2002

The 1990’s were not kind to Germany. No it wasn’t the climate; it was the market. The export share collapsed and their wine icons were in serious trouble. It was as if Blue Nun fell off the wagon or someone had torched Black Tower.

Fortunately, things are changing rapidly. First, the American market, which is a trend bellwether, saw German wine imports rise by over 25% percent last year - the greatest increase with the exception of Australia. Here in Canada sales are up 17% despite our weaker dollar.

It’s also becoming increasingly evident that German Riesling is once again becoming fashionable, albeit in a drier style. While some may be surprised that Riesling should be catching up to Chardonnay, California vintners have long confided that most consumers prefer Riesling to Chardonnay in comparative tastings.

And while that’s good news for Germany vintners who strut their wares with considerable pride, there is no question that the plethora of names and estates still going to intimidate. Let’s face it; Schneckenhof just doesn’t roll off the tongue. It might be better if it were translated as “house of snails” – at least we could all remember that one. Ditto for Juffermauer or “wall of virgins”.

Certainly getting past all the regions and classifications is a daunting task. There are, for instance, more than 77,000 grape growers in Germany! This explains the success of simpler names such as Ligenfelder Riesling Bird Label, which periodically appears on the shelves in Vintages.

Another challenge facing better German vintners is size. Most wineries are tiny – much too small to afford the luxury of pricey advertising campaigns tempting you to taste. Moreover, because their output is tiny, it’s difficult to find them - distribution is limited.

According to the German Wine Institute, the hottest wines today are the drier “troken” or “halb troken” whites. An exceptional example from this month’s Vintages release is Schloss Vollrads 2000 Riesling Kabinett Trocken at $19.95. Less residual sugar means higher alcohol, in this case 10.5%. Slightly schisty, stony, mineral smells meld perfectly with the honeyed, apricot fruit. On the palate it’s bright and crisp with spritzy, ripe apple and Anjou pear flavours. Great with fresh fish.

As German wines are becoming increasingly food-friendly, the current growth of premium drier German wines should continue. Indeed, some Toronto restaurateurs are picking up on what is already happening in trendy upscale New York City restaurants where crisp, bright wines like Bassermann-Jordan 1999 Riesling Trocken are now being featured by the glass

As for me, I still love the traditional non-trocken or off-dry wines, which show some residual sweetness. Serious fans are making a beeline to some undervalued beauties in this month’s Vintages release. For instance, you cannot do better than Schloss Reinhartshausen 1990 Erbacher Hohenrain Riesling Spätlese an incredible steal from the Rheingau at only $18.75. It is light gold in colour with an intense, honeyed, ripe, lime-pineapple nose. On the palate, you will find that the gently sweet but tangy, honeyed, tangerine peel flavours show excellent persistence. Perfect for poultry.

Another winner, this time from the Pfalz, actually hit the shelves last February with virtually no hoopla meaning that stock is still available (call the LCBO hotline). Check out the much more youthful Kurt Darting 2000 Dürkheimer Spielberg Riesling Kabinett at only $13.95. While this vintage did produce many thin wines, Darting’s effort is a smashing success. It is surprisingly well structured with rich, ripe apricot and lemon purée flavours followed up by a tangy finish.

To my taste, the greatest German whites are the incredibly sweet, complex, rich dessert TBAs or trockenbeerenauslese wherein the late harvest grapes have been allowed to totally shrivel by noble rot. Unfortunately, these wines are extraordinarily expensive and hard to find.

Much more readily available is eiswein (German for icewine). No, these are not Canadian knock-offs but the original artifact – usually made from Riesling and never Vidal. It is amazing to discover that the first was produced in Franconia in 1794 on the Wurzburg estate, which happens to date back to 1128.

In a recent blind tasting of nine icewines for the upcoming Vancouver Playhouse wine festival, I was seduced by a half bottle of the golden coloured Balbach 2000 Nierstein Oelberg Riesling Eiswein. Originating in the Rheinhessen, it has 8.9% alcohol and 15.4% residual sugar. It seems sweeter because the total acidity is lower than usual meaning that its longevity will also be reduced. Nevertheless, its viscous, honeyed, very sweet, caramelized baked apple flavours will sweep you off your feet. 

Those wanting to taste this and other fine German wines are advised to sign up for the upcoming German Wines and Jazz. Some 31 producers will feature 90 wines – to see the list PRESS HERE It all takes place at Toronto’s Fairmont Royal York Hotel Imperial Room from 6:30 - 9 pm on Tuesday, April 30^th. Tickets are $45 ($40 for subscribers) - call 905-815-1581. 

Copyright Food & Beverage Testing Institute of Canada 2004
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Contact Michael Vaughan at
mbv@total.net