February 1, 2008

REGISTER FOR
MICHAEL VAUGHAN'S

BUYING GUIDE

CLICK ON
THE NAME OF THE WINE

All recommendations are linked to the LCBO database enabling you to do an instant store search for current inventory.

Vintages Saturday,
February 2nd Release

The 90+ Point Bandwagon

Welcome to the inaugural Friday First weekly edition of Liquid Assets. Michael Vaughan features will appear nationally in the weekend section of the Financial Post commencing February 2008.

It is my belief that content is what drives a newspaper. It is here where I have strived to bring readers accurate, cutting edge information each and every week for the past nine years. Thanks to your support, our website now receives up to 23,000 hits a day. As a courtesy, National Post readers are still able to access the January 19 edition of Vintage Assessments click here.

Friday First
Reflection on the sentiments expressed in this week's flood of letters (e-mails actually) has convinced me to not abandon updates for beginners, in deference to just the wine savvy. My weekly updates will continue to flow. Better yet, instead of the traditional Saturday constraint; you will now be able to get the scoop on what to buy before any of the newspapers go to print because Liquid Assets is available on Friday.

No more waiting for the Saturday paper to "knock" at your front door. The really big advantage is that almost all the LCBO stores have the Vintages products on the shelves by Friday. No lining up on a cold frosty morning to nab that rare bottle. In fact, it's tough to find any line-ups anywhere anymore. It seems that there's too many wine values chasing too few dollars.

Saturday, February 2nd Vintages Release
Let me kick off with tomorrow's Vintages special thematic: 90+ Wine Scoring Demystified. Perhaps the LCBO Catalogue says it best: "WHAT'S THE MAGIC NUMBER? When a wine scores 90 or above with the critics, it is almost always a guarantee of excellence. This year marks the 30th anniversary of the 100-point scoring system first employed by the esteemed critic Robert Parker Jr. Vintages marks this milestone with a cream-of-the-crop selection that proves high-scoring wines don't have to come with a hefty price tag".

It's a slippery slope. Everyone wants to sell wine and it seems that high scores are the easiest way of achieve this. Today's 25 Vintages selections all score 90-points or more. That's great, but the real question is: are they actually worthy of the published score. In my opinion, the answer is simple - no.

Of course, one expert can love a wine, while another might dislike it. It is always a matter of taste and personal preference. There are a multitude of problems associated with numbers. Who did the rating is critical. It's much harder to get high scores from some critics than others.

Another critical aspect is when was the wine scored - two months ago or two years ago? Was it from a local store, barrel sample or a specially delivered one-of-a-kind bottle? Does the tasting note include a bottle lot number so you can make sure that what you're buying is identical? In what kind of wine glass was it assessed in? I should mention that on this last point, the easiest way to get a different score is to change the tasting glass.

I don't want to venture into the quagmire of saying which authority is right or wrong, too high or too low. Personally, I will continue to give readers my personal ratings. A guide to how I my ratings work appears below. Note that if you searching for 90 point wines, then the range **+ to *** is where you want to look. Over 90 points? Then it's *** and perhaps ***+ which is as close to perfection as it gets (100 points).

As for the rising tide of high scores, it's tough to resist. It seems like a disease, ninetypointitis. Tens of thousands of wines are now popping up everywhere with higher than ever scores. Take the December issue of First-In-Line where 53 out of the 100 Vintages releases reviewed scored 90-points or more. A whopping 53% got the magic score. Who says it isn't fun to be Santa?

February 2nd Whites
Getting down to brass tacks, of the five "90+" whites featured, while Chapoutier 2003 Chanté Alouette Blanc Hermitage is loaded with distinctive, idiosyncratic flavours, at $74.75, it isn't at the top of my list. If I had to pick one, it would be the classy Henscheke 2005 Julius Riesling (945055) at $36.75 from Australia's Eden Valley. Of all 33 whites, my top buy is Grant Burge 2006 Summers Chardonnay (see below) a steal at $18.75, which is also from Australia's Eden Valley. Another great value white comes from Alsace - Gisselbrecht 2006 Pinot Blanc Réserve Spéciale (see below) at $12.75.

February 2nd Reds
Moving on to the 20 Vintages "90+"reds, there are seven Aussi reds, but the best was omitted. The *** Henschke 2004 Henry's Seven (see below) at $40.90 received a surprisingly low 90-point score from Robert Parker. It deserves to be in this group, but isn't - perhaps this is because there are only 85 6-packs of this Barossa gem available. I suggest that you move quickly if you want it. Another high-scoring exclusion (Parker 92-points) is **+Glen Eldon 2004 Dry Bore Shiraz (54197) at $27.75. It has an extremely deep intense purple colour and solid, medium-full bodied, mouthfilling, dried ripe plum and dusty red cherry flavours with a lingering, mocha finish.

February 2nd Five Sweeties
for Valentines Day

February 2nd ISDs
Finally, given the fact that it's the Year of the Rat (Thursday, February 7), a special salute to Vintages who seems hell bent on increasing the number of untasted in-store-discoveries (or ISDs) in each release - despite a promise last year to reduce the number. Well I don't want to call anyone Pinocchio, but it seems that we have 16 for tomorrow, 19 on February 16th and a whopping 27 on March 1st. If you looking for something outstanding, don't miss Domaine Zind Humbrecht 2005 Riesling Herrenweg de Turckheim (51912) at $38.75. A stunning white for the Chinese New Year feast.

Sunday, February 3rd Super Bowl & Super Best Buy
Looking for delightful best buy for tomorrow's Super Bowl? Last September I raved about winemaker Darryl Brooker's Hillebrand 2006 Gamay Noir Rosé Artist Series (49742) with surprisingly delicious with fragrant ripe plums and wild strawberry flavours. The price of this seasonal general list item is now been reduced to only $6.95 (down from $12.15). To see availability click here