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Michael Vaughan’s April 17 Update
Upcoming Events
Vintages April 17th Release
 Monday, May 19th California Wine Fair:
First on the horizon is the Monday, April 19th California Wine Fair at the Fairmont Royal York Hotel (100 Front Street West) in theCanadian Room where some425 wines from over 145 wineries will be available for tasting. The by-invitation-only Trade Fair Tasting takes place from 2:30 to 5.00 pm. The evening Consumer Tasting event takes place from 7 to 9:30 pm and costs $65.
In some instances, winery representatives from California will be in attendance in order to discuss their wines and the latest industry developments. If you can’t make the Toronto event, it moves to Ottawa on Tuesday, April 20th. For information visit www.calwine.ca, call 1-800-558-CORK (2675) or email at calwine@sympatico.ca
At a preview tasting of some 50 wines, I was most impressed with the progress made with Chardonnay (there are some 85 to be tasted). It seem that producers have finally got rid the excessive oakiness and high alcohol levels that afflicted many previous releases. They are fresher and better balanced than ever before, and thankfully, prices have started to recede. Here is a compendium of recent Vintages releases – click here
A big plus is being able to see the catalogue ahead of time. I have put all the information in this 50-page document into a convenient 12-page summary click here to download. With so many wines to taste, you will easily get lost in this huge space. As there is no a-z layout, here is your one-page survivor’s guide FLOOR PLAN - click here
HIGHLIGHT: One of my recent highlights is Artesa 2007 Carneros Chardonnay, which will be poured at booth #25. Winemake David  Dobson has done a great job integrating excellent structure, fine acidity and flavourful toasty lime notes from the classy French barrels. The grapes were hand harvested and whole cluster pressed using only the gentlest of sparkling wine methods. This step is critical to give us all of the great fruit flavor developed in the vineyard without any of the harshness that comes from rough handling. This wine was 50% barrel fermented with sur lees stirring and aging and partially stainless steel fermented (also with lees stirring) to achieve a nuanced balance of fruit, lees and barrel character. Half of this wine has undergone a secondary malolactic fermentation to enhance its buttery creaminess. Don't miss tasting this one! It's a shame that Vintages has not brought this 2007 back into the fold. The terrific 2006 was a best buy and the 2007 only made a peek-a-boo appearance earlier this year with too few cases appearing in the Vintages Shop Online Exclusives venue. Despite being worth more, this wine should be priced at $20. It's a terrific licenseee white but if premium California wines are to regain popularity, it shouldn't be overpriced.
On Tuesday, April 20 is the Argentina Trade Fair tasting being held at the Inter-Continental Hotel – Toronto Centre (225 Front St. West) in the Oakville & Caledon Rooms from 1:00 to 5:30 p.m. Some 19 wineries will be showcasing their wines. Register at www.winespeak.ca/rsvp.argentina
Recommedationas from April 17th Vintages Release
Here is the April 17th Vintages Release synopsis, which features 103 items. It has a Veneto thematic with 3 whites, 15 reds, 1 rose, and 2 sparklers. There are a number of duds so you will have to choose carefully. The Green Teams features 15 items, 10 being organic. Plus there are 7 untasted In-Store Discoveries.
Here are some of my RECOMMENDED suggestions . In terms of whites, there are two choices from California:
496125 CHARDONNAY 2007 $24.95
Napa Valley Cedary Baked Lemon-Pear **/**+
(FRANCISCAN) (300 Cases) (13.5%) [Vin Int]
Very light yellow colour. Complex, very toasty, ripe baked lemon nose. Intense, complex, medium to medium-full bodied, quite creamy, slightly tropical, ripe lemon-pear-melon flavours with a lingering, caramel-driven finish. Ready-to-drink.
136382 CHARDONNAY 2008 $18.95
Napa Valley Spicy Ripe Pear **
(RUTHERFORD RANCH) (499 Cases) (13.5%) [Maj Win]
Medium light yellow colour. Slightly spicy, honeyed, ripe melon-lemon nose with some cedary, ripe apple notes. Dry, medium bodied, fairly intense, spicy, ripe pear flavours with a lingering, slightly honeyed, cedary, ripe melon, tropical fruit cocktail-tinged finish. Ready-to-drink.
A sweet tasty springtime effort from Germany will hit the spot:
160556 RIESLING KABINETT Erdener Treppchen 2007 $15.95
QmP Spicy Honeyed Ripe Apples **
(RICHTER) (199 Cases) (9%) [HHD Imp]
Medium straw colour. Spicy, very pleasant, honeyed, ripe apple purée nose. Just off dry, slightly honeyed, medium-light bodied, very spicy, ripe apple-melon flavours with a lingering, crisp finish. A well balanced, versatile, ready-to-drink, Springtime quaffer. Drinkability: { N S SM } Lot: APN 25930493509
Greece has a fine white that’s worthy of a detour if seafood is on the menu:
724583 MOSCHOFILERO 2009 $18.95
AOQS Mantinia, Peloponnese Spicy Ripe Melon **
(TSELEPOS) (120 Cases) (12%) [Kol Gro]
Medium straw colour. Slightly spicy, honeyed, very bright, ripe melon-lemon nose. Dry, quite harmonious, medium-light to light bodied, slightly spicy, ripe melon-lemon flavours with a lingering, crisp unoaked, refreshing finish. This ready-to-drink, 100% Moschofilero - an indigenous aromatic variety - has just a faint hint of spritz.
A not-to be missed highlight from Spain:
680678 NEROLA 2008 Organic $16.95
DO Catalunya Spicy Bright & Toasty **/**+
(MIGUEL TORRES) (350 Cases of 6) (13%) [Fam Win]
This 80% Xarello and 20% Garnacha blend has a medium straw colour. Gently honeyed, fresh melon nose with some toasty notes. Bright, crisp, medium bodied, gently honeyed, attractive, slightly spicy, ripe melon-lemon-apple flavours with a long, vanilla-tinged, Anjou pear finish. This organic wine contains 22 mg/L of free sulphur.
In terms of red, my old favourite is back:
72710 CAFÉ CULTURE PINOTAGE 2009 $13.95
WO Western Cape Smoky Black Cherry **/**+
(KWV) (499 Cases) (14.5%) [Dia Can]
Very deep intense purple colour. Intense, slightly smoky, complex maple syrup, black cherry, mocha nose. Fairly dry, medium bodied, juicy, slightly smoky, plummy, black cherry flavours with a long, very slightly sweet, lingering, caramel-mocha finish. The creator of this style, winemaker Bertus Fourie hasn't been at KWV for years. Similar to the recommended 2009 (**+) released on October 24, 2009 at $13.95. While I really enjoy this Starbucks coffee styled red, especially with bbq ribs, some will not. Ready to drink.
The best buy organic red:
155523 ROCHE BASTIDE CÔTES DU RHÔNE 2007 $12.95
AC Spicy Mocha Chocolate *+/**
(Celliers du Languedoc Vins) (599 Cases) (14%) [Sel Win]
This blend of Grenache and Syrah has a very deep purple colour. Spicy, juicy, plummy-cherry nose with some mocha-chocolate notes. Dry, fairly crisp, medium to medium-light bodied, slightly spicy, juicy, plummy-cherry flavours with a lingering, mocha-chocolate finish. Ready-to-drink. This organic wine contains 17 mg/L of free sulphur.
A tasty crowd-pleaser from Portugal:
165175 COLHEITA SELECCIONADA TINTO 2008 $13.95
Vinho Regional Alentejano Juicy Cherries **
(LUSITANO) (298 Cases) (13%) [Vin Dan]
Very deep intense purple colour. Slightly spicy, ripe, plummy-cherry nose with some mocha-chocolate notes. Dry, medium bodied, harmonious, slightly spicy, plummy-cherry flavours with a lingering, crisp, slightly toasty finish. Ready-to-drink.
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Michael Vaughan’s April 1st Update
Vintages April 3rd Release
Release Synopsis: The April 3rd Release features 103 items. It has a Spanish thematic with 22 items: 4 whites, 13 reds, 1 rose, 1 sparkler and 2 fortified wines. It also has a Bordeaux Calling featuring 5 under $20 items. Ontario’s Eco Producers features 3 items. Plus there are 8 untasted In-Store Discoveries (designated ISD in our April 3rd Vintage Assessments newsletter).
I have Spain on the brain because there are a number of excellent, very well priced buys that would be perfect for Easter. Because they hit the shelves today (April 1st), my first and most important suggestion is that you make a beeline to the LCBO and pick up a couple of bottles of my sparkling recommended/best buy:
665372 PINOT NOIR ROSÉ BRUT CAVA HIGHLIGHT
TRADITIONAL METHOD ZESTY RIPE PLUMS **+ (out of ***)
(CODORNIU) (398 Cases) (12%) [RUS WOO]
 This 100% Pinot Noir has a bright very light reddish pink colour. Gently spicy, honeyed, plummy, ripe red apple nose. Fairly dry, medium to medium-light bodied, bright, fresh, plummy, ripe strawberry flavours with a crisp, refreshing, effervescent finish. Very good mousse. A terrific, extremely well-priced, rather classy sparkler made in the traditional Champagne method.
Codornui Pinot Noir Rose Cava has been an extremely consistent best buy at Vintages. It’s much better than many of the pricier rose bubblies from elsewhere, I even include some dastardly expensive Champagne in that group of ‘what-not-to-drink’ sparklers.
Fortunately, Spanish wines are not all that difficult to understand. What is a bit challenging is dealing with the variety of styles now coming from each region. I am sure that many senior Spanish wine aficionados remember those traditional, over-oaked, baked plum Riojas of the past, which were often quite dusty and occasionally with dried out flavours. If you relish that style, they still can be found. Great with roast lamb and grilled meats, they do not work as well with lighter flavoured dishes, poultry and vegetarian items.
However, I have to sing halleluiah for new juicier style that is bound to appeal to the next generation. A classic example of that is the transformation achieved by Alvaro Palacios who embodies the promise and spirit of "The New Spain". After training in Bordeaux under Jean-Pierre Moueix at the renowned Chateau Petrus, Alvaro returned to Spain where he has helped revolutionize Spanish wine. His wines have won him cult status and are highly respected by the wine press. The Wine Spectator has called Alvaro “Spain’s Most Exciting Winemaker”, in 2003 Wine & Spirits Magazine named him their “Winemaker-of-the-Year” and his L'Ermita is widely considered to be the most important Spanish wine in a generation.
A fine example that hit the Vintages shelves last December (still available) is Palacios Remondo 2006 La Montessa Rioja (674572 - $19.95). This recommended **+ blend of 55% Garnacha, 40% Tempranillo and 5% Mazuelo was aged for 12 months in a mix of new and used French and American oak. The vineyards at Palacios Remondo are all organically farmed and the wines produced are bottled unfiltered and unfined.
In the April 3rd release, there are three fine recommended Rioja selections – two red and one must not be missed white:
146209 VIÑA ZACO TEMPRANILLO 2006 $14.95
DOCa Rioja Cedary Baked Plums *+/**
(BODEGAS BILBAINAS) (799 Cases) (14%) [Rus Woo]
Deep intense purple colour. Slightly spicy, plummy, cedary, baked cherry nose with some vanilla notes. Dry, slightly spicy, medium bodied, fairly well structured, plummy-cherry-blackberry flavours with a cedary-sandalwood finish. Drinkability: { N S SM m }
42929 RESERVA 2004 $19.95
DOCa Rioja
(BODEGAS LAN) (1498 Cases) (13.5%) [Vin Vin]
A repeat of the recommended 2004 (**) released on July 4, 2009 at $20.95. Here is my note: Deep intense purple colour. Plummy, spicy, dried red cherry nose with some cedary notes. Dry, medium bodied, very spicy, bright, rather cedary, stewed cherry flavours with a lingering, mocha-chocolate finish. Drinkability: { N S SM M ml }
Here is an outstanding white Rioja:
66951 MONOPOLE 2008 $13.95
DOCa Rioja Ripe Melon ** HIGHLIGHT
(CVNE) (159 Cases) (13%) [Dia Est]
 This hand-picked Viura with a touch of Malvasia and Garnacha has a light straw colour. Fairly intense, lightly spicy, honeyed, ripe lemon-melon nose with hints of macaroon. Dry, medium to medium-light bodied, slightly spicy, honeyed, ripe lemon-pear flavours with a crisp, unoaked finish. Terrific value and even better than the Explorer's Selection 2006 (*+) released on March 1, 2008 at $13.95. Drinkability: { N S SM } Lot: L-0716116
Another terrific value white comes from the Rias Baixas region in the northwest corner of Spain:
115816 LEIRA ALBARIÑO 2008 $16.95
DO RIAS BAIXAS Refreshingly Spicy **+ HIGHLIGHT
(PAZO PONDAL LEIRA) (199 Cases) (12.1%) [CAR TRA]
Pale straw colour. Very pleasant, fairly intense, spicy, honeyed, ripe melon-apple nose. Dry, bright, spicy, medium to medium-light bodied, ripe melon-lemon-apple flavours with a lingering, crisp, unoaked finish. This surprisingly tasty/classy 100% Albarino would be perfect with fresh fish.
If steak is on your menu try this versatile red:
172932 SABOR REAL TORO 2006 $13.95
DO Toro Spicy & Complex **
(CAMPINA DE TORO) (1000 Cs) (14.5%)
This 100% Tempranillo has a very deep intense purple colour. Spicy, juicy, plummy, tropical fruit cocktail nose with some mocha-chocolate notes. Dry, medium bodied, quite well structured, plummy, ripe cherry flavours with a lingering, mocha-chocolate finish. Try with a steak. Drinkability: { N S SM m } [Cas Win]
Finally, my best buy red of the release comes from the Montsant region:
155424 LATRIA VINO TINTO 2006 $18.95
DOC Montsant Flavourful & Ready-to-Drink **/**+ HIGHLIGHT
(Celler Malondro) (299 Cases) (13.5%) [Cas Win]
 Deep intense purple colour. This blend of 50% Garnacha and 50% Cariñena (aka Carignan) spent 8 months In French and American oak and has a spy, juicy, ripe plummy-cherry nose with some vanilla notes. Fairly dry, harmonious, medium bodied, quite well structured, perhaps a tad forward, ripe plummy-cherry flavours with a lingering, crisp, vanilla-tinged finish. Excellent value and ready to enjoy. Drinkability:
{ N S SM m }
If you want something really sweet, here is a Sherry that will knock your socks off:
47944 PEDRO XIMENEZ 1827 SWEET SHERRY $17.95
 DO Jerez Sweet Raisin Pie **+/*** HIGHLIGHT
(OSBORNE) (150 Cases of 6) (17%) [PMA Can]
Deep ambering brown with a golden yellow edge. Lovely, sweet, honeyed, raisin pie nose. Delicious, spicy, extremely sweet, fleshy, rich, raisin pie flavours with a long, lingering, coffee-caramel finish.
Back in stock:
242669 TIO PEPE PALOMINO FINO MUY SECO $16.95
DO Jerez Sherry Very Dry, Crisp & Lemony **/**+ (out of 3 stars)
(GONZALEZ BYASS) (250 Cs) (15.5%) [Rus Woo]
Very light yellow colour. Slightly spicy, intense, peppery, bright, dried ripe lemon peel nose. Very dry, slightly spicy, medium to medium-light bodied, dried ripe lemon peel flavours with a bracingly crisp finish. A bit of an acquired taste. Serve chilled by itself or with appetizers and soups. Keep chilled once you open the bottle. Last appeared in Vintages (**) on December 05, 2009 at $16.95.
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ViniPortugal Annual Grand Trade Tasting
Not to be Missed!
This Tuesday’s ViniPortugal Annual Grand Trade Tasting starting at 2 pm at the Toronto’s AGO is a landmark event. Considering price-quality ratios, this is easily the most important tasting event of the year. Surely the time has come for any self-respecting wine list to include these new value-driven wines from Portugal, be they entry-level or high-end.
These sentiments were reinforced by this week’s April 30, 2010 Wine Spectator article by Kim Marcus. Never have more Portuguese wines scored so highly. There were 15 “Top Wines” all scoring from 93 to 96 points. Nor has there ever been more super value. For instance, you will be hard pressed to find better value than Carm 2007 Douro Reserve (TABLE 16) with 94 points at only $27! Note that there are an additional 14 “Top Values” with scores up to 91 points at $10 pricing!
This ViniPortugal event highlights some 400 wines from more than four-dozen wineries. Despite the absence of a few notable producers who really should be in attendance, there’s a treasure trove of great wines from the terrific 2007 vintage to be assessed. Trying to figure out what to taste in just a few hours isn’t easy.
There are 46 tables with 55 wineries laid out in a rather user-unfriendly fashion. Looking at the brochure, you will see that the Index (page 1) lists the producer and importer click here. Unfortunately, the tables are not sorted alphabetically by producer, nor by region. Of course, the latter would be challenging as many major producers have wines originating in different regions, often with distinct vineyard names. If anything, there’s an attempt to group them by agent, but even this breaks down. Warning: trying to find the wine you want to taste may be difficult.
On the positive side, the tasting book is nicely laid out with perhaps just enough room to make a brief note on the wine being presented.
However, what makes things even more difficult is that some producers represent an array of wineries and/or labels. For instance, at Real Companhia Velha (TABLE 3), there are 10 wines presented with four different “wineries” labels:Porca de Murca (3), Evel (2), Quinta dos Aciprestes (2) and Royal Oporto (3). Real Companhia Velha also owns three more, albeit unfeatured, labels: Quinta de Cidro, Grandjo and Grantom. As there is no alphabetically sorted label index, it’s impossible to find out who has which wine and/or the table to go to.
I had hoped that the 392 listings in Tasting Buddy, which at least can be sorted alphabetically and also show the table numbers, might solve this problem. Unfortunately, no luck. You can only search by the producer name. For instance, all Real Companhia Velha wines start with the name of the “producer” and appear under the company name Real Companhia Velha. Warning: Tasting Buddy does not let you search out the individual wine.
Having said that, I have checked marked some of our Sommelier Selects recommendations on our “Sommelier Selects ViniPortugal List”, which is adapted from Tasting Buddy. Suggestion: download our 12-page pdf it and take with you to the event click here
I have just returned from a five-day taste trip to the Bairrada, Dao and Biera Interior regions (going west-to-east from the Atlantic to the mountainous Spanish border half-way between Lisbon and Porto). I was most impressed with what I saw and tasted. While I have visited Portugal’s wine regions many times (starting in 1970’s), I have never seen as much progress. Rather than take up a lot of time now with details, let me just suggest some highlights.
First, a tip of the hat to Arlindo Beca, owner of the Toronto-based company FWP (Food & Wine of Portugal), one of Canada’s most progressive wine importers. FWP has the lion’s share of outstanding Portuguese imports and works incessantly making sure that he has not only the best, but that his special wines get assessed by Canada’s leading wine critics. It is a shame that there are not more companies like his!
One of more famous characters in the FWP portfolio is the ever-rebellious Louis Pato owner of the Bairrada-based Adega Luis Pato (TABLE 10). His new modern compact winery was a joy to visit (March 10th). He produces some excellent wines from the region’s red Baga grape, which has been compared to Nebbiolo and Pinot Noir in terms of being a temperamental pain-in-the-ass. Baga calls for low yields and is susceptible to rapid harvest-time rot if it rains.
In any case, Mr. “Duck” (Pato means “duck” in Portuguese) produces some great sparkling wines from various indigenous grapes. For my taste, his excellent Louis Pato Sparkling Baga, with its light pinkish hue and delicious, vibrant, ripe fraise des bois (wild baby strawberry) flavours is a definite winner. Interestingly enough, it is made from early harvested Baga. You should also taste, his new, sweet (icewine-inspired?) 100% Baga dessert wine Louis Pato 2009 Abafado Molecular Rose.
At Carm, mentioned above (TABLE 16), there are some great value wines for discerning palates. I have not visited their vineyards located in the Douro Superior region, but have been impressed with the Carm 2008 Branco wih its harmonious, gently tangy, spicy, honeysuckle, melon-pear flavours and lingering, unoaked, mineral-tinged finish. This delightful blend of Codega do Larinhno, Rabigato and Viosinho is available on consignment at $15 (licensee)
There are many wines that I have not tasted, but should not be missed. Among them is Wine & Soul (TABLE 18). Many years ago when I first assessed a barrel sample of Sandra Tavares da Silva’s unreleased 2001 Pintas in Porto, I desperately tried to see if I could buy a barrel (26 cases). It was one of the most divine, delicious, Portuguese reds I had ever tasted. At the time, it cost under $20. Only 5,000 bottles were made and, unfortunately, my purchase never happened. Now, if you can find it, it fetches 100 Euros a bottle. I suggest you make a detour to try her Guru white and two Touriga Nacional reds.
While Bairrada is not very well known for its limited number of white wines, I was smitten by the whites I tasted at the ultra-modern gravity-flow Campolargo (TABLE 19). In particular, their Campolargo 2008 Entre II Santos Branco is a delicious blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Bical, while their Campolargo 2008 Arinto was one of the top wines of the trip! It isn’t inexpensive, but must not be missed.
To check out to see what has appeared in Vintages this and last year click here
Here is a short summary of some recommendations from Julian Hitner (JH) and myself (MV):
(TABLE 1) One of our favourite Madeira houses, with some really stellar 10 & 15-year-old wines, of which sommeliers ought to line up in droves to taste. Granted, Madeira carries a limited audience for clients, but the quality alone merits some conspicuous consumption at this particular table. Be sure to make this your last stop. (MV&JH)
Cavima Enterprises – contact Miguel Jardim (416.488-0851)
(TABLE 2) Much improved in recent years, and now producing some considerably good wines. Useful for sommeliers are the ports and red table wines, both of which can be easily obtained in the Ontario market. This afternoon, I’d recommend trying the 2007 Reserva, Douro DOC -- great on the budget, as is the non-Reserva (hopefully). (JH)
B & W Wines (416.531.5553)
(TABLE 7) An extraordinary estate to behold, with significant, reliable quality across the board. This afternoon, one of the top wines to watch out for is (probably) the 2007 Tinta da Ânfora,Grande Escolha VR Alentejano. (JH)
Diamond Estates (416.488-6039)
(TABLE 10) Located in the heart of Bairrada, this winery means serious business, especially when it comes to taming the ever-tannic Baga varietal. Not to be missed is the 2008 Quinta de Ribeirinho Pé Franco VR Beiras, crafted from ungrafted Baga vines. (JH) Don’t miss the Sparkling Baga. (MV)
FWP Trading (416.487.6153)
(TABLE 12) A top-quality producer with a solid reputation for good-value table wines (reds in particular). Personally, I would have a go of the 2007 Marquês de Borba, Alentejo DOC, along with the ‘Villa Santa’ labels. (JH) - As for reasonably priced and cheerful, Loios 2008 Blanco hits the spot – an excellent house wine that is currently available at the LCBO for only $9.95. (MV)
FWP Trading (416.487.6153)
(TABLE 13) A winery with a growing reputation for quality, and the flagship 2007 Grande Escolha, Douro DOC is available this afternoon for tasting -- enough said. (JH)
FWP Trading (416.487.6153)
(TABLE 16) A real treat that this winery is in town, run by the former own of Quinta da Noval. On this occasion, the best wines to taste are the 2007 Quinta do Vale Dona Maria, Douro DOC and the 2007 Casa de Casal de Loivos, Douro DOC. (JH)
FWP Trading (416.487.6153)
(TABLE 16) As mentioned above, there are some great value wines for discerning palates. From the Douro Superior region, I have been impressed with the Carm 2008 Branco (licensee $15). Don’t miss Carm 2007 Douro Reserve, which is available through consignment for only $29. (MV)
FWP Trading (416.487.6153)
(TABLE 18) Make a detour to try the 2008 Guru white and two Touriga Nacional reds, including 2007 Pintas Duoro Red. I haven’t tasted these releases but the winemaker Sandra Tavares is one of the best in Portugal. (MV)
FWP Trading (416.487.6153)
(TABLE 19) Don’t miss some of the best whites of the show: Campolargo 2008 Entre II Santos Branco is a delicious blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Bical, while Campolargo 2008 Arinto was one of the top wines of my recent trip. (MV)
Groupe Soleil (416.484.0007)
(TABLE 25) One of the most respected producers in Portugal and an important player in the Ontario market. Aside from the sweet wines (always delicious), you can’t go wrong (at least hopefully) with a sample of the 2007 Domini, Douro DOC, one of the more premium brands of the estate. (JH)
Philippe Dandurand (416.368.3344)
(TABLE 30) An establishment with an ever-increasing knack for quality wines. I have tasted the 2007 Quinta dos Quatro Ventos, Douro DOC, and it is truly fantastic – the best they have ever made (MV).
PMA Canada (905.257.2116)
(TABLE 32) The most recent 2006 release in Vintages showed very well and the 2007 Reserva, Alentejo DOC should be even better. (MV/JH)
FWP Trading (416.487.6153)
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Vintages March 20th Recommendations
The March 20th Release features 104 items. It has an Easter Feast thematic with 13 whites, 13 reds, 3 rose and 6 sparklers all priced, with one exception, from $12.95 to $31.95. You will have to buy selectively, it’s a very mixed bag. Ontario’s New Guard features 6 items. Plus there are 30 untasted In-Store Discoveries (designated ISD), of which 15 are designated as ISD-X meaning they are unsold previously-released Vintages On-Line items. It is a long-standing fact that Vintages steadfastly refuses to let the wine writers taste these items for fear that this might create excessive demand. The result is an ever-increasing number of unsold Vintages On-Line items, which are dumped into the bi-weekly In-Store Discovery releases.
I am not sure weather it’s good or bad, but there’s an ever-growing list of recommended wines to consider from an ever-increasing number of blogging wine pundits. I am always surprised by some of the scores, but that’s taste. I certainly have my own personal take on what’s worth buying, as well as, what not to buy. I try to be consistent from release to release. I offer readers 20 years of continuous, rigorous Vintages reviews – more than any other credible wine critic in Canada.
Here are some of my March 20th recommendations:
Two Top Ontario Sparklers:
587691 PROPRIETORS' GRAND RESERVE MÉTHODE $22.95
CLASSIQUE BRUT 2004 Ripe Lemon & Toast *** (BEST BUY)
VQA Niagara Peninsula, Méthode Classique
(JACKSON-TRIGGS) (121 Cases) (12.1%) [Vin Int]
This blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir has a very light yellow colour. Fine, bright, dried ripe lemon nose with hints of toast. Dry, medium bodied, harmonious, ripe lemon-melon-apple flavours with excellent mousse. Refined, slightly honeyed, lingering, toasty, ripe melon finish.
147504 CUVE 13 ROSÉ 2006 $24.95
VQA Niagara Peninsula Refreshing Ripe Plums ***
Traditional Method
(13TH STREET) (184 Cs of 6) (12.5%)
Very light orange pink colour. Very pleasant, faintly sweet, ripe plum nose. Fine mousse, dry, medium to medium-light bodied, bright, tangy, ripe plummy flavours with a lingering crisp finish. A fine, well balanced, ready-to-drink refresher. [Sma Win]
Three Top Ontario Whites:
56929 CLAYSTONE TERRACE CHARDONNAY 2007 $40.00
VQA Niagara Peninsula Intense Lime Purée ***
Twenty Mile Bench
(LE CLOS JORDANNE) (224 Cases of 6) (14%) [Vin Int]
Medium yellow colour. Intense, very spicy, rather cedary, baked lemon-lime nose with some hints of quince, persimmon and white pepper. Dry, intense, complex, quite well structured, ripe lemon-lime flavours with a long, slightly cedary, very tangy finish. Better and less tropical than the 2006 (**+) released on February 14, 2009 at $40.00. Drinkability: { N S SM M ml }
302059 GEWÜRZTRAMINER 2008 $15.95
VQA Beamsville Bench, NP Spicy **/**+ (BEST BUY)
(CAVE SPRING ESTATE) (301 Cases) (14%) [Cav Spr]
Light straw colour. Fairly intense, baked ripe lemon-melon and lychee nose. Just off dry, medium bodied, zesty, spicy, lychees and candied lemon on the palate with a lingering crisp finish. Try with a spicy Thai dish or poultry. Similar to the recommended 2007 (**/**+) released on September 12, 2009 at $15.95. Drinkability: { N S SM m }
68825 ROSOMEL VINEYARD FUMÉ BLANC 2007 $30.20
VQA Beamsville Bench, NP Extremely Flavourful ***
(HIDDEN BENCH) (83 Cases of 6) (13.7%) [Hid Ben]
Light yellow colour. Intense, spicy, key lime pie nose with some hints of cedary, sweet butter and caramel notes. Intense, medium-full bodied, very well structured, very flavourful, bright, cedary, key lime pie flavours with an extremely long, lingering, very toasty, crisp finish. A bit bigger than the recommended 2006 (***) released on May 10, 2008 at $28.00. Too big and toasty for seafood, try with a rack of lamb or poultry. Drinkability: { N S SM m }
Two Top California Whites:
158774 IRONSTONE RESERVE CHARDONNAY 2007 $26.95
Sierra Foothills Ripe & Very Cedary **+/***
(IRONSTONE) (399 Cs of 6) (14.5%) [Lif Age]
Bright medium deep yellow colour. Intense, fairly spicy, baked apple-lemon nose with some spicy, key lime pie notes. Dry, spicy, medium to medium-full bodied, harmonious, quite well structured, flavourful, ripe lemon-key lime pie flavours with a lingering crisp finish. Drinkability: { N S SM m }
986778 HESS SELECT CHARDONNAY 2007 $18.95
Monterey County Well Structured **+ (BEST BUY)
(Hess) (999 Cases) (13.5%) [Pre Mat]
Very light yellow colour. Caramel-tinged, honeyed, ripe lemon-melon nose. Dry, medium bodied, slightly toasty, ripe lemon-melon flavours with vanilla-cedar notes on the lingering, crisp finish. Better than the recommended 2006 (**/**+) released on January 31, 2009 at $19.95. Ready to drink. Drinkability: { N S SM M }
From Germany’s Rheinhessen:
89573 BARON HEYL ESTATE RIESLING 2008 $17.95
QbA Rheinhessen Sweet Ripe Melon **
(Heyl Zu Herrnsheim) (130 Cases) (10%) [Liv Vin]
Light yellow colour. Sweet, honeyed, ripe, apple-melon nose. Sweet but balanced, very refreshing, medium to medium-light bodied, honeyed, zesty, ripe melon flavours with good length. Screwcap closure. Not as good as the recommended 2005 (**/**+) released on February 14, 2009 at $17.95. Note that this is not organic and that Vintages says that product arrival has been delayed. Drinkability: { N S SM m } Lot: APN 438208400209
From Italy’s Puglia:
161653 ALTA FALANGHINA 2008 $15.95
IGT Puglia Complex Spicy Pear **/**+ (BEST BUY)
(CANTINE TEANUM) (199 Cases) (13%) [Ter Win]
Day-glo medium yellow colour. Intense, spicy, ripe pear purée nose with some very faintly smoky notes. Dry, harmonious, very flavourful, medium to medium-full bodied, quite well structured, spicy, baked ripe Anjou pear flavours with a lingering crisp finish. Drinkability: { N S SM m } Lot: L.217/09
Get the full scoop – what to buy and what to avoid – before they hit the shelves. Become an FBTI Supporter today – click here - and get $20 off!
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Michael Vaughan’s March 6th Best Buys
Irish Whiskey & Newly-Listed Whites
The March 6th Vintages Release features 109 items. It has a Chile thematic with 15 wines all priced from $13.95 to $19.95. There are some truly excellent values. In addition, there are 4 Irish Whiskeys, the best being the least expensive. Plus there are 24 untasted In-Store Discoveries (designated ISD), of which 9 are ISD-X unsold previously-released Vintages On-Line items. Finally, there are also 5 organic items.
Take a look at our Scoring System click here
and Drinkability Chart click here
Best value Irish whiskey:
657247 KILBEGGAN FINEST IRISH WHISKEY 700ml $34.95
Irish Whiskey Spicy Caramel Wafer **/**+
(John Locke) (112 Cs of 6) (40%) [Con Oen]
Light golden amber colour. Slightly sweet, coconut tinged, vanilla wafer and caramel nose. Dry, spicy, caramel tinged, honeyed, ripe plum and prune flavours with some honeyed notes on the lingering finish. Last appeared in Vintages (*+/**) on September 3, 2005 at $32.95.
Best value white - AUSTRALIA:
528216 COONAWARRA ESTATE RIESLING 2008 $16.95
Coonawarra, SA Lots of Minerals **/**+
(WYNNS) (300 Cases) (13%) [Fos Win]
Medium straw colour. Intense, fine, mineral tinged, schisty, ripe lemon nose with some very faint key lime notes. Crisp, dry, bright, medium to medium-light bodied, tangy, ripe lemon-lime flavours with very fine length. A very fine Riesling for the price. Screwcap closure. Not quite as great as the length. A remarkably fine Riesling for the price. Screwcap closure The recommended 2005 (**+) was released on March 29, 2008 at $14.95. Drinkability: { N S SM M ml } Lot: L8182N2
Best Buy Canadian white:
945659 RESERVE CHARDONNAY 2007 $24.95
VQA Niagara Peninsula Toasty **+
(PENINSULA RIDGE) (224 Cases) (13%) [Chu Cel]
Medium deep yellow colour. Very pleasant, rich, bright, toasty, lime-driven, melted butter nose with some hints of honey. Bright, well structured, slightly spicy, ripe Anjou pear flavours with some toasty notes on the fine lingering finish which shows some lemon peel acidity. A fine effort - great with white meats and poultry. Ready-to-drink. The recommended 1999 (**/**+) was released on March 10, 2001 at $24.95. Drinkability: { N S SM }
Best Buy Chilean White:
143198 SINGLE VINEYARD SAUVIGNON BLANC 2008 $14.95
Casablanca Valley Delicious **+
(ERRÁZURIZ) (200 Cases) (13.5%) [Phi Dan]
Light straw colour. Intense, very attractive, ripe yellow grapefruit nose. Dry, zesty, medium to medium-light bodied, very faintly pettilant spicy, honeyed, ripe yellow grapefruit flavours with a lingering, tangy, unoaked finish. Delicious and ready-to-drink. Screwcap closure. Drinkability: { N S }
Best Buy French White:
996017 CUVÉE BACCHUS GEWURZTRAMINER 2008 $19.95
AC Alsace Sweet & Very Spicy **+
(PFAFFENHEIM) (250 Cases) (13.5%) [Cha Hob]
Bright light yellow colour. Lovely, very intense, sweetish, honeyed, spicy, lychee and rose petal nose. Sweet, medium bodied, fairly rich, mouthfilling, very spicy, lingering, lychee flavours. Great with foie gras or spicy Indian cuisine. Very fine value. The recommended best buy 2006 (**+) was released on July 19, 2008 at $19.95. Drinkability: { N S SM M }
Best Buy French White:
606350 ANGIMBÉ INSOLIA/CHARDONNAY 2008 $14.95
IGT Sicilia Pear Puree *+/**
 (CUSUMANO) (250 Cases) (13.5%) [Dia Est]
This blend of the aromatic, indigenous grape Insolia (70%) and Chardonnay (30%) has a medium yellow colour. Fine, fairly juicy, ripe Anjou pear nose with some toasty notes. Dry, slightly honeyed, gently toasty, medium bodied, slightly lemony, dried pear flavours with some nectarine notes on the lingering crisp finish. Versatile and ready-to-drink. Better than the recommended 2007 (*+/**) released on February 28, 2009 at $14.95. Drinkability: { N S SM } Comes with a Vino-Seal Glass Stopper.
Get all the details on every wine and spirit in the release – including the ISD items – become an FBTI Supporter today. The March 20th release is being sent on Monday, March 15th – save $20 click here
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