*Frequently
Updated
PLEASE NOTE: The tasting notes provided below are NOT those of Michael Vaughan.
Taste the Classics 2001 Spring/Summer Collection
THE WINES — TORONTO & OTTAWA
CANADA - ONTARIO
CUVÉE CHARDONNAY 1998
Temkin-Paskus
(XD) $ 42
Tasting note: This is another huge, thick, complex effort - sort of apple cheesecake in a glass with all kinds of leesy, smoky barrel notes from extended lees in contact in the barrel. Dense and surprisingly silky on the palate, but starts to come a bit unglued on the finish with heat and some acetic sourness. Excellent to outstanding length. Score — 87. (David
Lawrason, ‘First In Line’, Wine Access E-Report, Feb. 2001)
CABERNET FRANC ICEWINE 1999
VQA - Niagara Peninsula, Inniskillin
(S) $ 87 375ml
Tasting note: Winemaker Karl Kaiser is particulary thrilled with this effort. And here’s why. It’s lovely, and it’s news — the first red icewine I’ve tasted that tastes like
icewine. Even better it actually tastes like cab franc. Late harvesting often diminishes varietal character, but not here. It has fine cherry-currant fruit, a hint of ground herbs, red pepper, perhaps some cardamon or nutmeg, plus the smoke and vanilla of a gently oaked red. Lush, creamy, sweet and delicate on the palate, with excellent length. Real finesse; outstanding length. Don’t bother with dessert. Score — 96. (David
Lawrason, Wine Access, Dec. 2000)
CANADA - BRITISH COLUMBIA
OCULUS 1997
Okanagan Valley, Mission Hill
(D) $ 32
Tasting note: Medium dark ruby with a hint of garnet. Delicious cassis, well-integrated oak. Medium supple tannins. Elegant and polished and very approachable. Good fruit on a lingering finish. Drink now or cellar for the short-term. (David Churchill, Vintages, Feb. 2001).
Compare with British Columbia retail price of $ 34.95.
FRANCE - BORDEAUX
CHÂTEAU LA GOMERIE 1997
Saint-Émilion
(XD) $ 129
Tasting note: Lots of ripe fruit for the vintage, with plum, tobacco and toasted oak character. Medium-bodied, with soft tannins and a long finish. A tad too much wood, but a beautiful wine overall. Drink now through 2002. Score — 89. (Wine Spectator, Jan. 31, 2000)
CHÂTEAU MARGAUX 1997 (6 Litre)
Margaux, 1er Cru
(XD) $ 1,980
Tasting note: Good colour. Lovely nose again. Fat, rich and oaky. Classy and profound for a 1997. Really very lovely and elegant. Medium to medium-full body. Not a lot of tannin nor strength. Yet intense, complex, long and stylish. Fine plus for the vintage. Will come forward quite soon. From 2003. (Clive Coates MW, The Vine, June 1999)
VIEUX-CHÂTEAU-CERTAN 1997
Pomerol
(XD) $ 115
Tasting note: Tight and fine. Good color. Subtle mineral, violet, berry aromas, hint of tobacco. Full- to medium-bodied. Silky tannins, long finish. Score — 90. (Wine Spectator, Jan. 31, 2000)
CHÂTEAU LÉOVILLE-POYFERRÉ 1996
2ième Cru, Saint-Julien
(XD) $ 89
Tasting note: This fabulous 1996 was tasted three times from bottle, and it is unquestionably the estate’s finest wine since their blockbuster 1990. Medium- to full-bodied, with a saturated black/purple color, the nose offers notes of cedar, jammy black fruits, smoke, truffles, and subtle new oak. In the mouth, there is impressive fruit extraction, a tannic, full-bodied structure, and a classic display of power and finesse. The longer it sat in the glass, the more impressive the wine became. Backward, and massive in terms of its extract and richness, this should prove to be a sensational Léoville-Poyferré for drinking over the next three decades. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2028. Score — 93. (Robert Parker Jr., Wine Advocate, Apr. 23, 1999)
CHÂTEAU COS D’ESTOURNEL 1995
2ième Cru, Saint-Estèphe
(XD) $ 175
Tasting note: A wine of extraordinary intensity and accessibility, the 1995 Cos d’Estournel is a sexier, more hedonistic offering than the muscular backward 1996. Opulent, with forward aromatics… this terrific Cos possesses remarkable intensity, full body, and layers of jammy fruit nicely framed by the wine’s new oak. Because of low acidity and sweet tannin, the 1995 will be difficult to resist young, although it will age for 2-3 decades. Anticipated maturity: 2001-2025. Score — 95 (Robert Parker Jr. Wine Advocate, Feb. 23, 1998)
CHÂTEAU LÉOVILLE-BARTON 1994
2ième Cru, Saint-Julien
(XD) $ 102
Tasting note: A mouthful for the vintage, with its lovely berry, chocolate and tobacco aromas and flavors, medium to full body and chewy tannins. Fresh finish. Better in 1999. Score — 90. (Wine Spectator, Jan. 31, 1997)
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN VIEILLES VIGNES 1998
Domaine Heresztyn
(XD) $ 43
Tasting note: Bright, deep, rich and complex. Black cherry, currant, raspberry and spice flavours simply pour out. Finishes with some light tannins. Better in 2003. (Lloyd Evans, Classics Catalogue).
Compare with an American retail of $36.99 U.S.
FRANCE - BURGUNDY
MARSANNAY LES RECILLES 1998
Jean-Pierre Guyard
(XD) $ 23
BURGUNDY BARGAIN
Marsannay has only had its own village appellation since 1987. Prior to that wines from Marsannay had to be sold as basic
Bourgogne. Many are better than that and yet, happily, most are not more expensive. Jean-Pierre Guyard’s Domaine de Vieux College is a good representative from this happy hunting ground. Les Recilles is locally recognized as one of the village’s better named vineyards.
Tasting note: Bright red. Inviting bouquet and tastes of wild blackberries, dried plums and cassis. Tannins enough to cut against that roast or braised meat dish right now or ensure the wine’s further evolution for 3 to 5 years to a more bosky elegance. (Lloyd Evans, Classics Catalogue)
MOULIN-À-VENT 1998
Beaujolais, Domaine Romanesca
(XD) $ 19
Tasting note: Very serious Beaujolais, with surprising spicy complexity and power - without losing something of the freshness and charm that should be integral to Beaujolais. Expect fresh currant-berry aroma with lots of peppery, clove spice. Mid-weight, with seamless almost silky texture, and a bite of fresh fruit and spice on the finish. Very good to excellent length. Score — 90. (Wine Access, Feb. 2000)
MOULIN-À-VENT CLOS DE ROCHEGRÈS 1998
Beaujolais, Château St-Jacques, Louis Jadot
(XD) $ 29
BURGUNDY CALIBRE CRU BEAUJOLAIS
Unlike other Beaujolais wines, ten crus Beaujolais can also carry the Burgundy appellation. Jadot’s Château Saint-Jacques delivers Burgundian class too.
MÂCON-CHARNAY 1999
Verget
(XD) $ 17
Tasting note: A good basic with just a touch of oak. Nicely concentrated. Stylish and balanced. Very good for what it is. From 2001. (Clive Coates MW, The Vine, Sept. 2000)
MÂCON-VIRÉ 1998
Henri Goyard
(XD) $ 23
Monsieur Goyard was modest, unassuming and full of charm on my visit with him December last, and you can catch a taste of that charm in this superb Mâcon-Viré.
Tasting note: Concentrated enough to be a top Sonoma Chardonnay, complex enough to be a premier cru
Meursault, Henri Goyard’s Mâcon-Viré is plush with the scents and flavours of Spring flowers, pineapple, honey and almonds, all backed by mineral and limey acidity. Ready to drink and full of late-picked ripeness that cries out for scallops and even lobster. (Lloyd Evans, Classics Catalogue)
POUILLY-FUISSÉ CHÂTEAU FUISSÉ VIEILLES VIGNES 1999
J.J. Vincent
(XD) $ 43
Tasting note: Barrel-fermenting brings out more honey, cinnamon, and buttery notes to wrap around the core of taut limey acidity and seemingly liquid minerals. (Lloyd Evans, Classics Catalogue)
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET LA MALTROIE 1999
1er Cru, Colin Deleger
(XD) $ 69
Tasting note: A little reduction makes it difficult to be sure but I think this is even better than the Chaumées. Concentrated and full. Very good grip. Excellent fresh peachy fruit. Fine. From 2005. (Clive Coates MW, The Vine, Sept. 2000)
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET VIRONDOT 1999
1er Cru, Marc Morey
(XD) $ 65
Tasting note: This is crisp, stylish, balanced and mineral. Lovely balance. Lovely fruit. Complex, long and elegant. Lovely. Fine. From 2005. (Clive Coates MW, The Vine, Sept. 2000)
FRANCE - RHÔNE
CAIRANNE VILLAGES 1998
Dominique Rocher
(XD) $ 17
Dominique gave up a successful career in biscuit manufacturing to grow wines in
Cairanne. He couldn’t be happier with his second career. There is pride and passion in what he is doing and the wines show it. 65% Grenache, 25% Syrah and 10% Carignan from 25-year-old wines.
Tasting note: Ruby/purple colour. Lots of blackberry, cassis, and cherry flavours. Fruit-driven, medium-bodied, soft-tannined and ideal drinking over the next 3 to 5 years. (Lloyd Evans, Classics Catalogue)
CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 1998
Château Maucoil
(XD) $ 24
Good networking in France has netted the superior Alain Corcia selection of the regular Château
Maucoil.
Tasting note: ….a ripe, fleshly, black cherry-dominated effort with full body, superb ripeness, and copious quantities of spicy, chewy fruit. It should drink well during its first 7-8 years of life. Score — 87-88. (Robert Parker Jr., Wine Advocate, Oct. 30, 1999)
CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE CLASSIQUE 1998
Domaine Monpertuis
(XD) $ 29
Tasting note: 85/90% Grenache and a little Mourvèdre. More powerful than La Croze because of the soil and micro-climate. Very stylish nose. Fuller than La Croze. More tannic. More vigorous. Very good fruit. Lots of concentration and depth. It will need more time to mature. Fine quality. From 2006. (Clive Coates MW, The Vine, July 2000)
Tasting note: Lively aromas of tart red berries and cherry, lifted by floral and menthol nuances. Juicy, intensely flavored and quite stylish, but slow to unfold in the middle palate. Red fruit and mineral suggestions. Finishes with firm but harmonious tannins and excellent persistence. Score — 90. (Stephen
Tanzer, International Wine Cellar, Jan./Feb. 2001)
FRANCE - LOIRE
CLOS DE LA BRIDERIE 1999
J & F Girault
(XD) $ 15
An old estate with roots back to when this part of France was ruled by England’s Plantagent kings. Its real merit, however, has come more recently, with third-generation growers Jeannine and François Girault took over the 23 acre domaine and converted it to bodynamic organic viticulture, reduced yields and hand harvesting. Their red wine is an equal blend of Cabernet Franc, Gamay and Cot (the local name for
Malbec. The Giraults’ due dilligence has paid off as Jacqueline Friedrich (A Wine and Food Guide to the Loire) observes her notes on the Girault wines are peppered with delicious and an ambassador and if only all Touraines were this good…
Tasting note: Bright ruby colour, juicy lip-smacking cherry/berry and kirsch or cherry pit scents and flavours. Add some raspberry and plummy notes on the palate. Ready to drink but can keep a couple years with interest as well. Really food-friendly. Locally the match might be sausage, or a salad with shredded duck or lamb, but it will be just as pleasing with cold chicken and cheeses. (Lloyd Evans, Classics Catalogue).
CUVÉE DE SILEX VOUVRAY 1999
Vouvray Tranquille
Domaine des Aubuisières
(XD) $ 16
Tasting note: Again, just a little off-dry. Just as exciting too as the Marigny, for its distinctive mix of apricot, kirsch, banana, beeswax and liquid minerals all balanced by a vibrant limey acidity. Like a coiled spring that will only fully release after five years cellar time. Yes, these are white wines that repay cellaring. An excellent match for mild curries, scallops, shrimp or lobster. (Lloyd Evans, Classics Catalogue)
LE MARIGNY 1999
Vouvray Tranquille
Domaine des Aubuisières
(MD) $ 18
While Anjou Chenin Blanc tends toward sweetness in a good year, Chenin Blanc from Vouvray has its own tendency toward to an off-dry dryness, the locals call ‘tendre’. Bernard Fouquet’s top vineyard, Le
Marigny, provides a case in point in 1999. The King of Rock ‘n’ Roll may be dead but the king of Vouvray is alive and rockin’ at Domaine des
Aubuisieres.
Tasting note: Pale straw with green highlights. Mute initially, but a couple swirls of the glass, followed by that first sip reveals a cascade of scents and flavours. Melon, pear and banana, for openers; then limey citrus zests, minerals and a nuance of chamomile tea, followed by the lemon-lime closer on the finish. Nice now, more complex in 3 to 5 years. (Lloyd Evans, Classics Catalogue)
Excellent. Score — 4 glasses (out of five).
(Bettane et Deseauve, Le Classement des Vins et Domaines de France 2001)
SANCERRE LA GRANDE CUVÉE 1998
Pascal Jolivet
(XD) $ 39
Made from a two and half acre vineyard of 40-year-old vines.
Tasting note: Yellow straw colour. Slightly deeper scents and flavours than the lighter more racy 1999. A little richer and rounder, like the gooseberries, lemons and limes have been cooked for pies. Still balanced by a lively acidity though. Full-flavoured enough to match smoked fish or oysters. Ready to drink. (Lloyd Evans, Classics Catalogue)
FRANCE - CHAMPAGNE
CHAMPAGNE ROSÉ N/V
Champagne J. Lassalle
(XD) $ 39
Tasting note: A serious, full-bodied rose Champagne with a deep salmon color, spicy-tasty aromas and generous, mature fruit flavours that linger on the finish. It improves with each sip. Score — 91. (Wine Spectator, Nov. 30, 1997)
FRANCE - LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON
CHÂTEAU ROQUEFORT GRANDE RÉSERVE 1998
Corbières, Celliers St-Martin
(XD) $ 34
Tasting note: A blend of nearly equal parts Grenache, Mourvèdre, and Carignan from rocky soils, this saturated black/purple-colored wine exhibits a ripe (nearly over-ripe) nose reminiscent of a top-notch Turley Cellars Zinfandel from northern California. Thick, juicy, black fruits intertwined with cedar spice box, fruitcake, pepper, and leather soar from the glass of this unctuously-textured, thick wine. With the 14.9% alcohol well-hidden, this Corbières should provide sumptuous drinking over the next 7-8 years. Wow! Score — 90-93. (Robert Parker Jr., Wine Advocate, Feb. 28, 2000)
Médaille d’Or winner, Paris 1999.
CÔTES DU ROUSSILLON-VILLAGES VIEILLES VIGNES 1998
Domaine Gauby
(XD) $ 39
Ghislaine and Gérard Gauby are leaders of a new generation of vignerons who are replacing the old
Midi(ocrity) with a new quality-first take on the region’s traditional vines.
Tasting note: Juicy black cherry, blueberry, plum and chocolate are seasoned by a little vanilla spice and rounded on the palate to produce an almost Burgundy-like feel to the tongue. A very serious red wine indeed. (Lloyd Evans, Classics Catalogue)
LA CARAMANGUE 1998
Minervois, Domaine Saint-Sernin
(D) $ 17
50 % Grenache, 30% Carignan, 20% Mourvèdre.
Tasting note: Roasted cherry, raspberry jam, licorice and that wild herbs scent they call garrigue combine in this medium-bodied, surprisingly satiny-textured, and persistently-flavoured wine. (Lloyd Evans, Classics Catalogue)
FRANCE - SOUTHWEST
LE PRESTIGE 1998
Cahors, Château du Cèdre
(XD) $ 19
Ultra-low yields, super-late harvests, manual pigeage, microbullage and malolactic fermentation in wood are all applied to a blend of 90% Malbec and 10% Tannat to take the rusticity out of traditional
Cahors. The results are hors classe Cahors.
Tasting note: Black ruby colour. Violets. black cherry, and black raspberry fruit provide a powerfully extracted fruit core. Add to that, some cedar and toast notes. Ripe tannins and a long finish identify this wine as a solid 5-year cellar candidate. (Lloyd Evans, Classics Catalogue)
HUNGARY
TOKAJI ASZÚ 5 PUTTONYOS 1993 (500 mL)
Château Megyer
(MS) $ 35
Niagara native and former assistant winemaker at Henry of Pelham, Thomas
Laszlo, is now the winemaker for this leading Tokaj estate.
Tasting note: A fruity, barley sugar nose. More orange fruit on the palate, with barley sugar notes, candied peel and spices; mouthwatering, balanced acidity, quite fresh and long on the finish. Score — **** (out of five). (Decanter, Dec. 1998)
ITALY - ALTO ADIGE
LAGREIN PORPHYR RISERVA 1997
Terlan
(XD) $ 37
Lagrein is an underrated red variety grown in the Alto Adige region. Deeply coloured and richly flavoured, yet surprisingly low tannins. Look for a signature bitter twist on the finish inspite of the comparatively low tannins.
Tasting note: The Lagrein Porphyr Riserva ‘97, very true to type, displays an intense ripe blackberry fragrance and a soft, concentrated and elegantly structured palate. Score — Two Glasses (out of three).
(Gambero Rosso, Italian Wines 2000)
ITALY - PIEDMONT
BARBARESCO BRICCO DE NEUEIS 1990
Dante Rivetti
(XD) $ 59
Tasting note: Perhaps a little deeper garnet at the centre; still rusty at the rim. Biggest of the three Rivetti wines, with a tasty mix of cherry, raspberry, forest floor, rose petals and herbs. A little more depth than the 1988 as well. Arguably the most impressive of the three Vintages, but only by a little. Will keep, but ready to drink. (Lloyd Evans, Classics Catalogue)
BARBARESCO BRICCO DE NEUEIS 1989
Dante Rivetti
(XD) $ 49
Tasting note: Considering the vintage’s reputation, I expected the ‘89 to be ‘duking it out’ with the 1990 for first choice in this trio of Rivetti
Barbaresci. Instead, for me, both the 1990 and 1988 edged it out. Still, a bronze isn’t bad at the Olympics and Nebbiolo ‘nebbishes’ like me should try all three to award their own medal rankings. Again, you can expect the red fruits, earth and leather notes of the 1990 and 1988, but they seem a little less focussed than 1988 and a little less concentrated than 1990. Whichever your choice, these are fine wine matches to a venison roast (in Toronto the roast would be moose), braised veal, osso bucco, or any other robustly flavoured dish that could use the earthy flavours and cut of acidity and tannins that these wines share. (Lloyd Evans, Classics Catalogue)
BARBARESCO BRICCO DE NEUIS 1988
Dante Rivetti
(D) $ 45
Want to taste mature Barbaresco at an affordable price?
Tasting note: Rusty rim to garnet centre. Dried cherries and raspberries, some coffee, leather, bark, mulch, tar all mingle on a sinewy frame. (Lloyd Evans, Classics Catalogue)
ITALY - TUSCANY
BROCCATO 1997
Dievole
(XD) $ 21
Tasting note: Loads of black licorice and ripe fruit in this one. Medium-bodied, with jammy fruit flavors, light acidity and a round texture. Somewhat monolithic. Drink now. Score — 85. (Wine Spectator, Oct. 31, 2000)
BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 1995
Col d’Orcia
(XD) $ 38
Tasting note: Chewy red. Bright cherry, smoke and spice aromas. Medium-bodied, with velvety tannins, soft texture and a fruity finish. Drink now through 2003. Score — 87. (Wine Spectator, June 30, 2000)
CHIANTI CLASSICO NOVENCENTO 1997
Dievole
(XD) $ 39
Tasting note: Big and juicy red (like a Zinfandel), with loads of berry, chocolate and vanilla aromas. Full-bodied, with velvety tannins and a long finish. Doesn’t much taste like
Sangiovese, but still very good. Best after 2000. Score — 88. (Wine Spectator, Oct. 31, 2000)
DUEMILA 1997 (Mg)
Dievole
(XD) $ 255
Tasting note: This is a hell of a wine even though the packaging is a bit bizarre. Full-bodied, with amazing aromas of blackberry, cherry and tobacco and masses of caressing, velvety tannins. The finish lasts for minutes on your palate. Best after 2001. Score — 95. (Wine Spectator, Nov. 30 1999)
ETRUSCO 1997
Cennatoio
(XD) $ 53
Tasting note: Beautifully balanced Sangiovese, with pretty blackberry, fresh mushroom, dried cherry, plum, and a twist of licorice all laid out for display on a silky-tannined medium-bodied frame. Drinkable now. Better, perhaps, in two years. (Lloyd Evans, Classics Catalogue)
ROSSO FIORENTINO 1996
Cennatoio
(XD) $ 47
100% Cabernet Sauvignon.
Tasting note: Purple centre, ruby rim. Currants, the fruit, as well as the bush, are joined by some spicy toast and the tiniest sprinkle of balsamic vinegar to, as Emeril would say, kick this wine up a notch. Medium to full-bodied with some chewy tannins on the end. (Lloyd Evans, Classics Catalogue)
ITALY - UMBRIA
MONTEFALCO ROSSO 1998
Arnaldo-Caprai
(XD) $ 19
Tasting note: Pretty plum, cherry, violets and some dried herb character unfolds on a medium-bodied frame. Ready to drink. (Lloyd Evans, Classics Catalogue)
ITALY - VENETO
AMARONE CLASSICO RISERVA 1995
Sergio Zenato
(XD) $ 79
Tasting note: Deep ruby-red colour. Hugely intense, spicy dried-fruit and dates bouquet. More than enough flavour to balance the warming alcohol and sinewy tannins that lurk beneath. Classic Amarone. Ready to drink roast meats, game and sharp cheeses, if you give it an hour’s time to open up in a decanter. (Lloyd Evans, Classics Catalogue)
Score — **** (out of five). Highly recommended. (Decanter, Sept. 1, 2000)
Score — Two Glasses (out of three). (Gambero
Rosso, Italian Wines 2000)
VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO SUPERIORE 1997
Lonardi
(XD) $ 19
Giuseppe Lonardi began as a restaurauteur but his desire to provide his customers with real characterful Valpolicella and not the industrial stuff led him to start a winery under his house in the 1980s. In his winery, he works with low-yield grapes that produce a real taste difference. His restaurant customers have benefitted fom this quality-quest, now we can too.
Tasting note: Inviting violet perfume and cherry aromas. Bitter cherry and blackberry flavours and tangy acidity make this a simple but deliciously attractive glass of wine. Ready to drink. (Lloyd Evans, Classics Catalogue)
PORTUGAL
RESERVA DOURO 1992
A. A. Ferreira
(XD) $ 38
50% Tinta Roriz with the remaining 50% divided between four other classic Port grapes: Touriga
Nacional, Touriga Francesa, Tinta Barroca and Tinta
Amarela.
Tasting note: Deep red at the centre with brick-red tones at the rim. Aromas of cedar, tobacco, pit fruit, cassis, leather and fruit leather. Dry, powerful, big on body with lots of tannic grip. Drinkable now, with a little aeration. Better still in a couple more years with another ten or more years of drinking pleasure thereafter. (Lloyd Evans, Classics Catalogue)
CHILE
D DONOSO 1997
Domaine Oriental
(XD) $ 32
Tasting note: Rich and spicy…red cherries and cream. Quite tannic but with juicy fruit. Score — 87. (Wine Magazine, Dec. 2000)
Gold Medal - Intervin International 2000 (Ontario, Canada)
AUSTRALIA
CABERNET SAUVIGNON DORRIEN VINEYARD 1996
Barossa, Seppelt
(XD) $ 39
Dorrien Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon is Seppelt’s top Cabernet Sauvignon wine. Based on the eponymous Barossa valley vineyard with a little Langhorn and Coonawarra Cabernet and a dab of Merlot as is the Australian wont.
Tasting note: Medium to full purple-red colour. Delightfully complex, with an array of berry, mint, earth, dark chocolate and vanilla weaving through the bouquet. More of the same on a powerful but well-balanced palate that finishes with lingering mature tannins. (Lloyd Evans, Classics Catalogue)
RWT BAROSSA VALLEY SHIRAZ 1997
Barossa Valley, Penfolds
(XD) $ 98
Tasting note: Bright, spicy and vibrant, jazzy with blackberry, chery and spice flavors, with hints of coffee and anise lingering on the extended finish. The rich flavors are balanced with snappy acidity. Has the intensity to age. Best from 2002 through 2010. Score — 92. (Wine Spectator, Oct. 31, 2000)
Score — 94. (Wine & Spirits, Apr. 2001)
SALLY’S PADDOCK 1998
Pyrenees Range, Redbank
(XD) $ 23
Winemaker Neil Robb’s flagship wine comes from a dry-farmed single vineyard named for his wife, Sally. Planted with Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz Malbec and a little Cabernet Franc.
Tasting note: Bright medium ruby colour. Aromas of cassis, morello cherry liqueur and raspberry jam are made more complex by some exotic accents suggestive of celery, animal fur, iron and incense. Dry and uncompromisingly serious on the palate with tongue-coating but not excessive tannins. Better in 5 to 7 years. (Lloyd Evans, Classics Catalogue)
CHARDONNAY 1998
Lenswood Vineyards
(D) $ 29
A best-lots selection from a seven-acre Adelaide Hills vineyard planted in 1981 and 1984, run by Tim Knappstein since his retirement from the winery that still bears his name.
Tasting note: Medium to full yellow-green colour. A deliciously sophisticated blend of melon fruit and subtle oak, offset by gentle mineral notes on the bouquet, heralds the pear/apple fruit and elegant nutty/creamy flavours on the medium- to full-bodied palate. Classy, would be lovely with a terrine of smoked salmon. (Lloyd Evans, Classics Catalogue)
USA - CALIFORNIA
CABERNET SAUVIGNON 1997
Napa, Mount Veeder
(XD) $ 56
First planted in the 1960s, Mount Veeder is home not just to the eponymous winery but other Cabernet specialists like
Mayacamas, Château Potelle and the Hess Collection. A little Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Malbec provide a seasoning to the core Cabernet Sauvignon.
Tasting note: Layers of earthy currant, black cherry, mushroom, mint, tar and leather provide real richness and complexity. Mature tannins leave the wine big and chewy without overpowering the rich berry flavours of the wine. Built to age. Better in 2003; should continue to develop for a decade anyway. (Lloyd Evans, Classics Catalogue)
CARMENET DYNAMITE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 1998
North Coast, Chalone
(XD) $ 28
Tasting note: The 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon Dynamite is a friendlier style of wine, with decent acidity, and soft, black currant, chocolatey notes with noticeable American oak in the background. It should be drunk over the next 4-5 years. Score — 86. (Robert Parker Jr., Wine Advocate, Dec. 23, 2000)
ESTATE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 1997
Napa, Far Niente
(D) $ 150
Tasting note: Elegant and complex, with layers of currant, black cherry, anise, cedar and sage. A big, full-blown style that packs in lots of flavor. Tasted twice, with consistent notes. Drink now through 2008. Score — 88. (Wine Spectator, Sept. 15, 2000)
SYCAMORE VINEYARDS CABERNET SAUVIGNON 1994
Napa, Freemark Abbey
(D) $ 71
Tasting note: The best Sycamore in years. Stunning concentration and integrity of aromas and fruit. Characteristic berry and cassis aromas with mint, cedar and smoke.
Oaky, powerful. Tremendous depth of flavour; pure and delicious. So easy to drink, it’s frightening. A dynamic Napa Cab from a fabulous year. Score — 93. (Wine Enthusiast, Year End, 1999)
MARLSTONE VINEYARD 1997
Alexander Valley, Clos du Bois
(XD) $ 56
Tasting note: …a blend of 52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 44% Merlot, and 4%
Petit-Verdot. It has the same elegance as the 1996 [Marlstone] but additional substance, a more layered texture as well as excellent cherry and currant fruit, with an exuberant, medium to full-bodied palate. It should drink well for 10-12 years. Score — 89. (Robert Parker Jr., Wine Advocate, Dec. 23, 2000)
STONESTREET LEGACY 1996
Alexander Valley, Sonoma Kendall-Jackson
(D) $ 175
A meritage blend of 58% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, and 20% Cabernet Franc from Kendall-Jackson’s flagship Sonoma estate.
Tasting note: Reveals an opaque purple color, in addition to a sexy, chocolatey, jammy cassis, spicy, pain grillé-scented nose. Full bodied and chewy, with impressive levels of extracted, lavish, smoky wood, and a juicy, succulent, glycerin-endowed personality. Score — 93. (Robert Parker Jr., Wine Advocate, Dec. 23, 1998)
CHARDONNAY RESERVE GOLDFIELDS VINEYARD 1996
Sonoma, Simi
(XD) $ 39
Tasting note: Wonderful complexity, with rich, elegant layers of fig, pear, vanilla, citrus and nutmeg. Very concentrated and long on the finish. Simply delicious. Drink now through 2004. Score — 92. (Wine Spectator, May 31, 1999)
ESTATE BOTTLED CHARDONNAY 1997
Sonoma, Chalk Hill
(XD) $ 49
Tasting note: Dusty citrus aromas (key lime, lemon drop) and mint. Moderately concentrated but smooth and graceful, with ripe citrus flavors and a rather fat texture. No shortage of flavor intensity or structure. Slight suggestion of heat on the finish. Score — 88. (Stephen
Tanzer, International Wine Cellar, Nov./Dec. 1999)
PINOT NOIR FREEDOM HILL VINEYARD 1998
Panther Creek
(XD) $ 59
Tasting note: The explosive dark cherry aromatics of the medium to dark ruby-colored 1998 Pinot Noir Freedom Hill Vineyard lead to a medium to full-bodied, velvety-textured, and lush personality. This decadent, chewy, and broad wine bursts on the palate with copious quantities of red cherries. It is well-balanced, intensely flavored, and harmonious. Projected maturity: 2003-2010+. Score — 92. (Robert Parker Jr., Wine Advocate, Feb. 28, 2001)
Compare with an American retail of $42.95 U.S. at
Calvert-Woodley, Washington, D.C.
USA - WASHINGTON STATE
CHÂTEAU STE. MICHELLE COLD CREEK CABERNET SAUVIGNON 1996
Columbia Valley, Stimson Lane
(D) $ 43
Tasting note: Rich, ripe and focused, this Washington Cabernet shows layers of currant, plum and vanilla flavours, with hints of pepper and bay leaf sneaking in on the long, supple finish. Fine-grained tannins. Best from 2001 through 2008. Score — 92. (Wine Spectator, Feb. 29, 2000)
All the above products are available for ordering on site at both tasting events.
Prices are subject to change without notice. Some limits apply to quantity available for ordering.
Copyright Gargoyles Limited 2001
Toronto, Ontario
mbv@total.net